Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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Here Is a key holder I designed and printed in bronzefill for a friend who Is into gardening.
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or just get the IPM Coupler from 3D solex
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Did you actually check what the world record for the smallest working electric drill is? You might at least be close...
I did a search and found one that was the second worlds smallest
, as mine looks even smaller. :grin:but who knows. I'm sure its the smallest 3D printed one so that's all I'm claiming. I actually found a smaller battery and I'm sure i can find a smaller button. the problem is, it took me 3 hours to solder it as the wires kept breaking off and was hard to hold all the little bits.
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For all those unbelievers out there
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my Mini Drill next to a full sized drill
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Yeah I did. But not on purpose
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THE WORLDS SMALLEST 3D PRINTED CORDLESS DRILL
Well I'm sure if its the smallest but its still tiny and it actually works
Anyone Got a blocked nozzle :-P
All it cost me to make is a tiny bit of filament and a hearing aid battery
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I printed this tiny thing today, not 100% finished. still need to print the chuck. :-P
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link to the discussion about the Olsson block is found here:
Link where you can buy it from here:
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Mini Ultibot scaled down 0.625
Printed with 0.25mm Nozzle and 0.04 Layers
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you may want to load pictures so people can fully understand your explanations
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I haven't looked into the side ones.
The stainless steel duct does make them louder. You can print others but I find they deform over time.
I wonder if you welded it up if it would make it more ridged and make them slightly quieter. Probably won't make to much difference.
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the Quiet fan can also be found here http://www.ebay.com/itm/111400412083
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Replace your rear fan with this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/111400412083
Noisy fan problem solved. its so quiet you don't even know if its on.
I de-soldered the wires off my old fan and put them on the new one so i can still use the plug but you could use crimp connectors or something if you don't have a soldering iron.
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@Labern (and others) - Ultimaker will almost certainly give you a free teflon isolator if you convince them your's is defective. Even if your printer is out of warranty they are likely to give you one for free.
I have seen that you have mentioned this before and SandervG has also said that they would do this for your first one that has worn out. So I created a support ticket. After a few weeks of back and forth emails (takes days to get a reply) and sending photos and serial numbers etc.. they came back saying it comes under normal wear so I need to go to the store and Order a new one.
So no luck there.
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if you loosen the 4 thumb screws the push the bowden tube down and re tighten the screws again, the slight pressure from the bowden should hold it in place.
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OK thanks
I machined up a spare at work. FREEBIE
You had mentioned a modified one to suit the I2K so was just wanting that to have a good match.
Ill wait to see what you come up with then and give one a try when its ready.
thanks
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Hi Swordriff
I have noticed you now have the I2K insulators in the store.
In the passed you have mentioned that they will come with a teflon piece as well as the I2K washer. Is this still the case as its not mentioned on the website?
Mine has deformed so i need a new one.
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I pre-ordered one. Just for those little parts that I need. Also so I can take to to work so I can print some things there or when I go to people's places. Means I can draw and print while I'm there and don't need to wait till I get home to print it. Then go back to drop it off. I also got a spare 3dsolex heater block for it for .8 speedy prints.
I find 75% of the things I print are within the build volume.
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Print this one if you can https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
Its the most widely used and is very good. It also make it faster to change materials and easier to clean the knurled knob.
If you are unable to print it, then I'm sure someone near you could.
Not good that you are having these issues but as hal-9000 said. once you are passed them im sure you will love it.
I had a few issues to start with but I stuck with it and I'm really glad i did.
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I have been running the E3D stainless steel nozzles and printing with XT-CF20 for about 2 weeks on my UM2. the nozzles are great but im not sure about fitting them to UM0.
I find you have to set the temp a little higher then the brass nozzles and slow down the rate the fans come on otherwise I get under extrusion. but you might get different results on the UM0 setup.
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sure could be super awesome.
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They do have STL. I find it very good so far and easy to use. Similar to when I started using Solidworks many years ago.
With Some nice added features that make things a bit simpler and easier.
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LETS GET SOME TERMS STRAIGHT (these are Ultimakers words - not mine):
Isolator - The white teflon part
Isolater Nut - the steel round nut that rotates and has 6 holes with which you can stick a metal stick through to rotate it.
On the github drawings it says:
ptfe isolator coupler - white teflon bit
Hot end isolator - steel round nut.
so got my terms from there.
But yours do sound better.
, as mine looks even smaller. :grin:
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
Yes
Its fun to play around with the array of nozzle sizes. The problem is you will then have heaps more settings to check and go through.
but changing just takes a few seconds and you can print detailed or fast