Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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0.05 is very small and may go unnoticed. Try putting it on 0.5mm or even 1mm as a trial on a small print so you can see if it's actually working.
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i just ordered some from E3D with some nozzles and shipping was pretty cheap in comparison to other places
Haven't used the other companies that you have listed though.
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First, I haven't yet tried the sewing machine oil and was wondering if anyone had any images of drilling the snap on to insert a pipe cleaner?
only image i have is here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-snap-on-guide-with-oiler
I have tried heaps of things to get the quality good but I thing unless you have direct drive or flex drive I don't think it will ever be that great.. I have had some reasonable prints and will try again with my new nozzle soon.
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If you are changing just the heater block you don't need to undo the whole cold end part.
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Didn't know about a "sex bolt". Had to refrain from making explicit jokes about it
He must like his printer A LOT to have that on his mind. :grin:
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Not even remotely close.
I switched to craftware pernanently.
By the way, do you guys ever plan on fixing issue where 0.9mm high cube (for example) with layer height at 0.3mm only generates 2 layers and not 3 ?
Your Signature seems to be incorrect. Just look at IRobertI's
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Hey,
Couldn't figure out to to create a pull request so just posting here.
Is it possible to add Z-Hop on Skin to try and eliminate scratching on the top surface?
Or is that already on the list of things to do?
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Nice fish. I had been thinking about this. Good to see it works.
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Have just tried a new roll of black and had same effect. had to print cooler. Not to sure why. it was cooler when i was trying out the clear and now im in Summer I should try to see if it runs any better. But i wouldn't think that room temp would have that much of an effect. Maybe moisture soaked in the filament. But my roll was newly delivered and opened so shouldn't be the case.
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EldRick did something similar and has reported that it has had a significant impact on the life of the PTFE coupler.
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6084-um2-bowden-block-cooling-improvement/
I'm not saying I don't believe this claim but it would be good to back it up with factual numbers not assumptions that it makes an effect. That way you can see how much of an effect and make further adjustments to keep improving your design. If it's cools very well then you could adjust and allow more airflow on the printed part etc..
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Well It was a lot cheaper to buy an UM2 from Ultimaker HQ, pay for shipping to the other side of the world and pay an extra $500USD for customs charges, then go to a local store and buy an Makerbot Replicator 2 for me.
So I'm real happy
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I got new XT Clear. it came out milky white at 240 to 260 and noticed there was slight crackling and popping sound as it was printing. dropped the temp to 230 and it went clear. found it had tiny bubbles at the higher temp. it also became brittle.
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I have had another look at your drawing and now can see that the fan shrouds are blowing air on the cold end and the printed part.
By doing this are you trying to increase the life of the PTFE coupler?
It would be interesting to measure the temperature difference (if any) at the point the PTFE coupler touches the Hot end Heater Block. (as this is where it deforms). comparing your fan shroud with the original. PTFE has low heat transfer so cooling the top may have little or no effect at the bottom. As with the Stainless isolator.
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some nice ideas though
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Yeah I have printed other faun shrouds and had problems with having the whole nozzle exposed like that with the air rebounding off the glass or larger prints and cooling the temp sensor block.
Also why have you decided to put a deflector covering one side where the missing hot end goes?
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Good Idea. It can be designed so it doesn't take up much additional space quite easily. Cant say how in words though. I may just have to print one 2 :cool:
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I really like the software page.
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Ah. So it's not even attempting retraction over the 45 degree fill area, only on the borders?
Other way around. 45degree fill is retracting, borders is not retracting.
Haven't tried the 15.01 official release as it hasn't rolled out to me yet. im still using the RC11. when it does ill try it to see if its any different.
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Its not retracting, thats the whole point of my question. It is only retracting while putting down the "pre-laid down Skin" but not the perimeter lines around it. Also you shouldn't need your retraction length that long. Maybe you bowden hose is loose?
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As a test try .1 mm and 190 degrees and 60 bed temp.
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A few months ago I had the same issue where the fans would hit the side and the print was not quite in the center of the glass. ( but center in Cura. ) I adjusted the limit switch and can now print full size and everything is central.
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I seem to also get this issue but only with colorfabb grey. It's annoying. But all my prints haven't required any quality at the moment so I haven't played around trying to fix it.
It good to read possible solutions that I'll try out.
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Check your drawing in sketchup with the solid inspector plugin. It will let you know if there are issues with the drawing.
You can also select the entire model and select make group. Then check info of the group and it should say solid group.
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It was hard for me to accept the choice ultimaker made even though I do think it was the right thing for them to do. I was pretty upset as I was counting down the days just waiting for the moment dual extrusion was going to be released. I love my machine but it was a big investment for me and it was based on the dual extrusion upgrade. I actually put projects on hold till it was released thinking it was only going to be a few months away. It feels like false advertisement but I do understand and accept the final. What I would appreciate now is a new fan shroud that is designed for a single extruder. Seeing it's now just a single extruder machine. It will heighten the quality that you stand for. It wouldn't take much to design and fold up an new fan holder that you can add to the store and put on new machines.
Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I found that having the standard 1mm gap from the Stainless isolator to the PTFE coupler top bit. the new 3dSolex "The Olsson Block" hits the Ultimaker Fan shroud. I would have to increase the gap to about 3mm to get any clearance. Has anyone else experienced the same. ( not at home so cant post photo )