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Posts posted by Labern
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Also if you are interested in changing nozzle sizes easily then this topic maybe of interest to you.
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I think as it stands now they will be exactly the same with no improvement. There is a lot involved if they make changes as all the plastic bits are injection molded.
There is some discussion here about possible changes in that regard but I wouldn't hold my breath over it.
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9344-company-update/?p=90875
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I think that there maybe some appeal as there are guides into how to design things with holes so you don't have these issues. Yes I can try the plugin and redesign things to eliminate these issues but I saw a new feature that I thought could be improved further.
I'm no programmer so i have no knowledge of ease of implementation. That's why I asked here.
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People from Ultimaker are actually saying there "maybe" upgrades to the Ultimaker 2. There is no indication of what this maybe, when or if any are going to be released. Only that there will be no dual extrusion.
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but what I think you mean is not "top" but any exposed flat surface. This is a skin.
I realise this, I was purely try to express myself so you would understand my request. Hence why I said Z Hop on skin earlier.
Ultimately it comes down to whether Daid thinks it's worth doing or not or if it's any benefit to anyone And if it's easy for him to implement. Because he is the mighty ruler of all things CURA.
If he doesn't like the idea or takes no interest then that's fine.
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I'm not sure I understand, so you want combing off for perimeters (retracts) but you want combing on for perimeters to eliminate defects? When you say outer walls you mean perimeters yes?
I want retracts on for bottom and top surface for the perimeters, and combing on during the rest of the print so the side walls don't get defects.
Yes, of course "No Skin" with no z-hop will still scratch, but not ooze. But this "No Skin" setting will do a standard retract, including z-hop. So you already have z-hop on skin. Am I missing something here too? You want z-hop without retract on skin?
No, I don't want Z hop on during the entire print. Only while printing the top and bottom surface.
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I understand what you are saying about what the skin is. But I guess the goal is to print something with the least amount of defects as possible. But at the same time not have to many unnecessary actions that take up to much time.
so if you are only implement a feature that fixes the "flat part in the middle" to increase the appearance of the final print , but then the appearance is reduced by oozing on multiple perimeters. then you have only fixed some cases when all can be fixed if it retracts on perimeters also.
it won't ooze or scratch on it moving to the next point.
Well it will scratch unless you have Z hop turned on. and this is why Z hop on skin would be good.
but at some point you have to ask yourself why use combing at all?
So you don't get defects in the outer walls.
You could also try increasing your travel speed.
Travel speed is already set to 250mm/s
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It would be nice to see it as a challenge If I had the time. Not all jobs allow you to work on such things
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If this can be fixed. Z hop on skin would also be a good feature.
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I have tried both suggestion and put the minimum distance on 0mm and tried Z hop on 0.5mm.
neither of these helped as it still didn't retract.
hope this picture helps you understand more what on trying to explain.
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We might just do that, we've been pondering about limited volume beta kits for certain bits&pieces.
Well put my name down if you ever do.
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Just tried out RC11 and the No Skin combing feature.
The Item Im printing has a few holes in it.
I have noticed that it lays down the external perimeter of the print then travels to the holes with no retraction. then when its filling in the area it will retract.
Because of this i haven't found much of an improvement in quality as it oozes while traveling to the holes.
Is there a way CURA can detect multiple perimeters and retract while transferring to those?
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After install UM2 can't read Sd Card, reverted back to RC9 and it worked again
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Dual extrusion was going to be an upgrade kit wasn't it?
I did understand UM0 was more for tinkerers and UM2 for plug and play but when the said will upgrade to Dual Extrusion I didn't think it was exempt of any upgrades.
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Yeah I'm another very disappointed customer who brought the UM2 for dual extrusion. I'm even more disappointed to see that the work is diched and not put on hold. UM0 took 3 years to get heated bed upgrade. Would be nice if Ultimaker had said that if new improvements in technology and materials came along then work would continue.
I hope ultimaker doesn't turn into one of those companies that just makes new printers to solve issues with there previous ones leaving there existing printers with inherent problems. When I got my UM2 I could see that the UM0 had different upgrade kits available and they promised that they would continue to support all their printers. I was hoping that the dual extrusion kit might have upgraded nozzle design to fix some of its issues. So I hope upgrade kits do come out for UM2 despite the lack of dual extrusion.
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Its funny how we usually put the seat belt on things we care about .
I normally put mine in the front seat with the seat belt. That way i can reach across and hold it on sharp corners
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Sorry, no, I don't know. What I have seen/heard about I can't talk about I'm afraid. Let's just say that they aren't sitting around on their asses
Why Are you afraid? :wink:
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Yeah, in our metal shop at school we made flintlock pistols. then in wood shop we made cases for them to go in.
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I want a built in web cam with phone app support so i can view / pause from anywhere.
Also higher temp capacity so i can print PEI ULTEM 9085 filament.
larger X-Y build plate also and closed chamber as long as its not fugly.
dual extruder with easy change nozzle size with a hole selection of CHEAP replacement nozzles.
would be cool if someone could develop a good anti ooze valve or something in the nozzle. I know the Robox has a needle valve system but have no idea if its any good.
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I saw that to. Good to see i made a good choice.
Does this mean I'm more desirable seeing i have one? I wish..
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You declare its a simple manual for beginners, but the beginning could be rather confusing for some users.
1A starts off with something that is not supplied with the printer and no description of what it is. I personally wouldn't use any sprays inside my printer as i wouldn't want any residue to get over everything, but that just my preference.
It would be good for complete novices to understand if, why, when they need to use adhesives, How much is to much? and how to apply the tape?
As with Roberts guides, pictures are always helpful. 7A would be a good example of this.
Just remember, everyone has different backgrounds and skill base. so it has to be written in a way that everyone can understand.
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if you find it catches on bits as its traveling you can try z-hop. you can adjust the hop so any oozing doesn't hit the other pieces.
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Yeah I found my limit switch tongue was bent from the factory. but it looked like it was done that way on purpose, so i just bent it back a bit.
Daid has just released a RC8 version of CURA that has changes to the build volume with some corrections relating to the clips. you could try this also or wait to the official release which should come out soon.
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If you use Roberts feeder i made this to oil the filament: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-snap-on-guide-with-oiler
Filaflex is really grippy and this helped
Difference (Technical) between UM2 and coming Go / Extended
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Yes there was a bit of disappointment when I saw it was all exactly the same.
I just hope the UM3 doesn't come out with a single extruder and a promise of a dual upgrade