Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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just replaced the washer with a new one but it still doesn't grip it :(
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Just found today that even with the element / thermocouple locking screw really tight, the thermocouple is still loose and slides in and out easily.
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Just saw this today.
We used to use this paste at work but ended up stopping as it hardens at binds your sensors in place. Its really only good for in between seat sinks and electronic components not thermocouples and elements. Also if you do ever remove your thermocouple you have to remove all the excess paste from the hole before putting a new one. otherwise the old hardened paste will actually act as a slight insulator and give incorrect readings.
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the nozzles on the olsson block sit about 4mm lower then the original nozzle.
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I have been designing my own fan shroud to accompany the Olsson block. I will start a new subject on this.
I haven't optimized my settings, I just used default ones but here are my first test results. (note that the Venkel shroud has been lowered to the correct height)
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Do you have pictures. like one with the weird shape?
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I have used a 3d printed fan shroud. It did really improve some prints like the right side of ulti-bot.
it deformed over time and after the firmware change i got temp errors. Its in the bin now.
I think there is room for improvement for using single extruder.
The problem is with the current designs is that there is no proper testing put in place to prove peoples theory's.
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you can contact Ultimaker and they will replace it for you. But the only problem is that the replacement might be just as noisy or only slightly quieter as in my case.
its best to order this one http://www.digikey.c...1573-ND/2757803
you can also find it on ebay. Its so quiet that you don't even know that your printer is on.
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Yes it is. there is this one on youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud
but i feel that the exit holes are 2 small for the fans used.
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I agree the you want to cool the Telfon coupler. but it needs to be cooled at the base where its touching the heaterblock. The stainless nut goes down to this point. the alloy plate which the nut sits in is at this point to draw heat away from this area.
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The fan is to cool the alloy heat sink, not to blow on the Teflon coupler. Passing air will blow on it, but the main idea is to cool the alloy that the Stainless nut and Teflon coupler sits in.
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Its very good. I did get some extra stringing but I have changed so much lately I'm not sure if it was the nozzle. this was easily fix with different retraction settings.
Does mean you can print things like this with .04mm layer height and .5mm wall thickness.
The nozzle does sit lower then the original so the cooling fans are a bit high. Im working on a fix for this and there are a few others as well.
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I know the Olsson block cost more, but this does give you a lot more options. cheaper replacement nozzles if they do wear and only takes a few seconds to swap them out. you also can have different sizes for either more detailed print or really fast print using the 0.8mm nozzle.
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Hi Welcome to the forum.
Clean the glass with alcohol to make sure there are no greasy fingerprints on it and try again.
Are you using ultimaker Pla?
Are you using the glue Stick?
What temperatures are you printing With?
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Thanks. I'll check it out and give it a go. I thought the .ini file was ment to alter this Stuff?
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Yes I have tried a few of these and some can wear them out quite fast. I would recommend getting an Olsson block from 3dsolex found here: http://3dsolex.com/
Forum discussion here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=71735
Then you can replace the nozzle easily and use steel ones for more abrasive materials.
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I also tried this on my UM2 and had the pen crash into the front of the printer during the start. It also started heating up. Couldn't see any steps I missed in the instructions. To bad the ulti evening is a bit 2 far to travel.
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For sketchup you need to use solid inspector plugin. This checks you're drawings for errors and makes sure it's a solid or watertight.
cleanup3 is also good for removing lines and faces that shouldn't be there.
In Cura if you use xray view, things in red are errors.
and if you can see it in normal view but not layers then you may have a setting wrong.
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Have you tried Kapton film instead of aluminum? Its light and easy for everyone to install.
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Yip. Worked perfectly. I was surprised that I didn't need any support. Although I had glass sticking issues for a few attempts. Once I sorted that it printed rather easily.
Thanks swordriff for providing such a good product.
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Well if you are patient then they are working on off line support. How that will work I'm not sure. But I totally agree. I'm not into cloud stuff either.
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If you use cura just add one or more machines (rename something like UM2-0.6) so you don't have to change all preferred settings all the time, just select the right machine.
thanks for the tip
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@Labern: Congrats on the Gizmodo/Sploid exposure
http://sploid.gizmodo.com/this-is-the-cutest-and-possibly-smallest-3d-printed-d-1692348672
Thanks
Its everywhere now. I cant believe how fast stuff travels like this. Some twisted facts added by some though. I made sure UM got their name in and 3ders.com has added how the community (you guys) have played a part. Because really if I didn't have the guidance from people here then I (and a lot of others) wouldn't be able to make things as good as we can now.
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Yay
I got heaps of emails about it from various sites. some twisted stories put in from some though, but I Made sure i got UM's name out there.
Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Yes I did. I must have missed that post. I put a lot of force on it and it did bite but with a little tug it comes free again.
thanks for the update though.