reibuehl

And then how do I reinstall all the other versions that who-knows-what software needs to function?

Do you have an Intel graphics adapter?

I see this behavior with new filament and old filament. I have now printed and installed the yoke version with the guides that you mentioned and will give it a try for a while. I modufied it slightly to work without the need for spacers and longer screws and have done one successful print up to now. But since the issue only shows up sporadic, I need to test with that yoke version for a longer time.

I already did try replacing the parts... that didn't help. The current parts only have a few hours on them.

No, mine is just a regular UM2 (no plus). It is also a fairly old machine (>5 years I think), so no warranty anymore.

Hi all, I use IRobertI's feeder (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two) now for many years but recently experience an annoying issue: Suddenly, sometimes after a few layers, sometimes very far in the print, the filament snaps behind the bearing in the feeder and then can't be moved anymore. This seems to happen more frequently after I change filament but that might be unrelated. I already printed new feeder parts and replaced the bearing but nothing seems to help. Has anybody that uses this feeder - or any other feeder - experienced a similar issue? How could I fix this? Reiner

I would guess that the parts that are removed are too thin or too shallow so that they are below the threshold of what can be printed with your selected nozzle diameter and/or layer height. To try to verify my theory, you could try to enlarge the model in Cura by 100% and then slice the model again using the same settings as before. If the slicer result looks better/has more details vissible, you could try different slicer settings with the normally sized model. You could cange the layer height to be smaller - maybe even only for the top x layers to minimize printing time. If that is not enough and if your printer supports it, you could switch to a smaller diameter nozzle, e.g. 0.25 mm instead of 0.4 mm.

Hast Du schon mal probiert, die Windows compatibility settings für die Cura.exe auf "Windows 8" zu setzen? Bei mir hat das auf einem von zwei Systemen, auf denen Cura >= 2.x nicht läuft geholfen. Siehe https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5569

Setting the compatibility mode to "Windows 8" also fixed it for me on Windows 10 Pro 64-bit. I filed a bug for this: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5569

I have the same issue. 3.6 was working fine and then stopped showing any GUI. I uninstalled it and installed 4.0 and have the same issue with 4.0. The process Cura.exe shows up in Windows Taskmanager with minimal CPU usage but no other signs of activity. Running it with the "run as Administrator" option doesn't help either. I run it on Windows 10 Pro Version 1809 64-bit.

Hi! Does anybody here have machine settings and profiles to use the Fabrikator Mini 1.5 / Turnigy Tiny Boy printer with Cura 3.x? Best regards, Reiner

Bei "NAME" musst Du deinen Windows Benutzernamen einfügen.

Bei mir lässt sich auf einem meiner Rechner auch keine Cura Version 2.x oder 3.x installieren ohne das was im Log stehen würde. Das Programm zeigt noch die Lizenzbedingungen an, stürzt dann aber ab, bevor man sie akzeptieren kann. Ist das bei dir auch der Punkt, @Mavic?

Check the bowden collets too. I had strange errors on my UM2 after some time because the collect had cut a groove into the bowden and was rocking back and forth and slowly getting pressed back.

I installed Cura 3.4 on Windows 10 Enterprise 64-bit and if I start it, it shows the splash screen and then immediatly crashes even befor I have a chance to accept the User Agreement. Can anybody help me to fix this? stderr.log cura.log

Je öffter man den Bowden entfernt, desto eher wird die Stelle, an der das Collet den Bowden einklemmt, zerstört da die Klammern immer minimal anders sitzen und sich so eine umlaufende Furche bildet, in der die Collet-Löammern dann nicht mehr fest halten. Das verstärkt sich dann durch Vorschub und Retraction immer mehr.

Neu bestellen! Wenn der Bowden noch gut ist, sollte es reichen, die Collets auszutauschen. Sonst kannst Du natürlich auch gleich ein Set mit Bowden und Collets nehmen - bei mir sah der Bowden an der Stelle, an der er vom Collet im Druckkopf gehalten wurde schon sehr mitgenommen aus, da hab ich gleich beides ersetzt.

Hallo Alex, wenn Du das Filament entlädst, hast Du dann an der Spitze eine leichte Verdickung? Wenn ja, dann schau Dir mal den Bowden und speziell die Collets, die den Bowden im Extruder und im Hotend fest klemmen an. Bei mir haben die irgendwann nicht mehr fest genug gehalten und der Bowden ist während des Drucks durch die Retracktions minimal zurück gerutscht, was dann zuerst zu solchen underextrusions und später auch beim Start neuer Drucke dazu geführt hat, dass bei Druckbeginn die Düse verstopft erschien. Tatsächlich konnte das kalte Filament aber mit dem Knubbel nicht mehr ins Hotend eingeführt werden.

Since there is so many ways to get from STL file to a moving printer, maybe if you explain your process in more detail somebody has an idea where to check in addition? What comes to my mind is: Check in Cura: Manage Printers... --> Machine Settings --> Printer tab --> Gcode flavor. should be Ultimaker 2 Chech in Cura: Manage Printers... --> Machine Settings --> Extruder Tab --> Extruder Start Gcode and Extruder End Gcode should both be empty Depending on the way you print - SD card, Octoprint, seriall connection, etc. there might be more that influences this. You said that this happens when you multiply the same object? Do you do this in Cura? If so, maybe you could test it with a different Cura version once? I still use the old 15.04.6 for most of my prints and have used the multiply function there successfully before.

Have you tried comparing the g-code between prints that work and prints that don't work? I would take a look at the end of the g-code file and check if there is unexpected stuff at the end of the file - e.g. from a plugin or a garbled Cura installation/printer profile? The file should end with something like this: M107 ; Stop Fan G10 ; Retract G0 F9000 X136.470 Y90.649 Z10.000 ; Move back to home position - different values since it is relative to the end position of the print M25 ; Stop printing from SD card

3DSolex was the original distributor of the Olsson Block for the UM2. I have had a number of UM2 nozzles and other UM2 spare parts from them over the last years and was always happy with the quality. As I do not have a UM3 myself, I can't say how it exactly works with their print core. I suggest you contact them directly if you need more information than what you find on the web site. They have been very helpful in the past when I contacted them.

Have you had a look at the UM3 HardCore print cores from 3DSolex?

Eine beschichtete Alu Dauerdruckplatte habe ich hier auch noch rumliegen, habe sie aber nie Montiert, da ich dafür die Clips für die Glasplatte entfernen müsste und ich bisher nicht den halben Drucker zerlegen wollte um an die Schrauben der hinteren Clips zu kommen. Ich hab mir jetzt mal einen UHU Stift besorgt und schau mal, ob es mit dem genau so gut klappt, wie bisher mit dem Staples Stift. Eine Front-Abdeckung bzw. Tür hat bei mir die ABS-Druckergebnisse auch am meisten verbessert. Top-Abdeckung brauchte ich bisher nicht, hat auch so mit Staples-Klebestifft und Tür sehr gut funktioniert.

I print ABS quite regularly and have been successful most of the time with a door (no top enclosure) and glue stick as adhesion helper. I used the standard heat bed temperature for ABS from the UM2 firmware - I think it is 90°C but I can't verify that at the moment.

If the printer looses too much heat to the outside, the build plate heating element might not be powerful enough to keep up with that heat loss over time.