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oliver3d

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Everything posted by oliver3d

  1. A flail, printed in one piece with fast settings @ 0.2mm Vase, printed with transparent blue PLA @ 0.25mm
  2. How does the material look on the other end, in the feeder mechanism? That amount of inprint from the feeder is normal I think. How is your bed leveling? That looks like the nozzle might be to high from the build plate, thus not pressing the first layers enough.
  3. I sure did. edited. Yeah, i guess calling it a new technology is a bit wrong.
  4. Here is how to calibrate the nozzles, just like Neotko said: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Dual_Extrusion:_Calibrate
  5. I can't really see what that is. What it is supposed to look like? Could you maybe show the model file?
  6. Hello! Yeah, this is a really simple issue to solve. As you know, the nozzle is really hot. When it stays in a small area for a long time, the plastic beneath gets too hot and melts. So what you need to do is give it time to cool down. There are a couple of things you can do: 1. Print two at a time. This way it has time to cool while the head moves to the other model. 2. In the settings you can give it a "minimal time per layer" and enable "cool head lift" which will move the heated head away from the print for a set amount of time, thus giving it time to cool. Hope this helps
  7. To my understanding, this means that the resin is pushed away, by the oxygen, from the areas that's being printed, so that the UV light only hits that part. Unlike SLA, where beams of UV light is projected to different areas to cure the resin, this CLIP does it so that the UV light is continuously projected on the whole area, and the oxygen determines where the resin is cured. When this is done in a continuous motion there won't be any layers although, in a way, the parts are still being built layer per layer.
  8. Looks really nice indeed! I wonder what those machines would cost :ugeek:
  9. That should work. However I don't think there needs to be that much fill in the support piece. You should be fine with about 50% less. Here's a link to some help about designing for 3d printing, where you can find out more about making supports, made by IRobertI: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
  10. At what stage of the print does it scrape? The first layers? Check your bed leveling and you Z-stop. It could also be that you're extruding too much, so that it bumps into previous layers because of the extra plastic.
  11. Hello! I haven't used Slic3r myself, so I can't help out that much, but I can still give my 2 cents. Have you checked this out?:http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Manual_First_Print (THIS IS FOR THE ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL NOT FOR ULTIMAKER 2!!) There's some help with setting it up for Sli3er.
  12. Just to give you an idea: I have my UMO in a full enclosure > http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9457-umo-enclosure/ The ambient temp inside is about 45C when printing, and this is without a fan to let the hot air out. So i'm wouldn't be too worried about the stepper motors.
  13. No problem man. I was hoping someone would find it useful for making a project of their own
  14. Hello fellow printaholics! Today i wanted to share with you my soundproofing enclosure that i made for my UMO. It's kind of a "poor mans edition", and not the prettiest, but it fulfills its purpose well! I made it with stuff I found in a scavenger hunt in our garage. The only thing i bought was the led lights and some more soundproofing material. I made this for three reasons; 1: I'm running the printer in my living room, and you can all guess what my girlfriend thinks about the noise it made. Of course I too found the noise a bit much at times. 2: To keep the temperature steady and
  15. Printed out this hex scalemail, created by Davinci85.
  16. £148 sounds an awful lot for surface treatment! Are you using ABS or PLA or maybe something else. There are very different methods for different material, like for example Acetone treatment works on ABS but not on PLA. ****** EDIT; Re-read the question, and saw that you asked specifically for treatments regarding wax. I haven't tried any wax on my prints.
  17. Really impressive! How effective is it as sound isolation?
  18. I thought so. So basically all models with tricky overhangs should be printed with 0.8 shell or higher. Thanks for the response! BTW, here's the model after a bit of sanding and amateur paint job;
  19. I printed out this beauty. It came out a bit rough, so I decided to sand it a bit and then paint it. I'm not that good at painting, but i'm happy with the result! Before; quite a rough print, done with 0,2 layer height. After sanding & painting, as well as coated with a layer oh lacquer
  20. I don't think that the issue. The original maker printed it out with woodfill material, and several others of those displayed there are made with FDM. There's also one made with 0,2 layer height and 5% infill, and it turned out great!
  21. Hello again fellow makers! I have a new patient (aka print) that i would need some advice with Print settings: Material: PLA Layer height: 0.2 Shell thickness: 0.4 Bottom/top thick.: 1.2 Fill density: 5% Print speed: 50mm/s Temp: 210C Bed temp: 60C Diam: 2.85 Flow: 100 Retraction speed: 40 Ret. Dist. : 5mm Here you can see how it's come out like for others: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:224878/#made The 0.4 shell thickness might part of the reason, maybe 0,8 would be better. What do you guys think?
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