tinkergnome
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Posts posted by tinkergnome
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Wie kann ich eigentlich einstellen, dass wenn ich nur Extruder 1 benötige, dass auch nur der aufgeheizt wird? Im Menü Dual Extrusen auf disabled setzten?
Die Temperaturen wählst Du im Slicer aus. In Cura alle Temperaturen für den zweiten Extruder auf Null setzen sollte ausreichen (incl. der Standby-Temperatur).
Dann gibt es aber immer noch den Start-Gcode, der versucht, das zweite Material vorzubereiten...
Besser Du verwendest gleich das "normale" UM2+ Drucker Profil (single extruder) so wie früher auch. Dann musst Du nur darauf achten, das Modell nicht zu weit nach vorn zu platzieren.
Für Simplify3D gilt das analog.
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If there are additional steps, as you are indicating, it would be IMMENSELY HELPFUL for many of us to know what those are.
IMHO the additional steps are documented for Octoprint, not for Cura. I would first take sure, that Octoprint itself controls the printer in the right way (there are a lot of possible scripts and settings in Octoprint). Perhaps the Cura documentation should mention, that one should configure Octoprint first - there's no reason to connect Cura to an Octoprint installation, that does not work properly...
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- Ich bin nicht sicher, aber das sind vielleicht nur die fehlenden Initialwerte für den X/Y-Offset. Setze den am Anfang einmalig manuell auf die folgenden Werte
Advanced -> Dual Extrusion -> Extruder offset X= 18.00 Y=-25.00
(Z müsste ja schon den richtigen Abstand haben) - Ja, das Netzteil ist ziemlich "am Anschlag" (du hast nicht zufällig ein ZPM übrig... ). Verwendest Du für alle Heizungen die (Standard) UM2+ Elemente? Dann reduziere einfach im Menü den ersten Wert (Total) schrittweise um 10W, bis es funktioniert. Der Standard sollte 160W sein, aber ich denke, es gibt immer gewisse Fertigungstoleranzen - vielleicht machen auch die Bondtech-Stepper einen Unterschied. Falls Du für die Düsen Heizelemente mit mehr als 35W verbaut hast, dann kannst Du das auch gleich ändern:
Advanced -> Preferences -> Power budget
Viel Erfolg!
- Ich bin nicht sicher, aber das sind vielleicht nur die fehlenden Initialwerte für den X/Y-Offset. Setze den am Anfang einmalig manuell auf die folgenden Werte
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UPDATE:
Its a software problem, it belives it goes up 330mm but in reality it only goes up 165mm. How do i fix this?
Perhaps a side effect of your tinkering with the motherboard. Have you accidentally plugged something to the connector which is labelled '8/16 step' (or similar)?
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- Power supply new: MeanWell GST280A24 (around €75 ex. vat). It comes with a six pin molex plug so I made a 6 to 4 pin adapter cable.
@harmenschippers - where do you got the power supply at this price? AFAIK it is (usually) much more expensive... Can you share the source?
...and can you share some details about how to make the adapter? That would be great!
Now I have a question about the power budget (I'm feeling pretty stupid), but I can't remember what my original power budget settings were and I want to start from there.
IMHO the defaults are: 175 / 150 / 35 / 35
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you can set the rotation direction on the printer, can't point to the exact location in the menu as I'm not near a printer atm. (ask again if you can't find it..)
Advanced -> Preferences -> Motion Settings -> Invert axis
8)
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I think the main thing to check atm is like @ultiarjan tested, on Cura 2.5 it doesn't happen but Cura 2.6 does ?
Well..., it's stated above that it (probably) does not depend on the Cura version, because it happens with Cura 2.5 too - and even with S3D. The difference must be elsewhere...
That's why I ruled this out at the moment.
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If my theory is correct, it could be solved by setting the offset to a round value before doing a calibration. (and the influence would be invisible)
Let me recapitulate:
- The extruder offsets are added to the current position on a tool change.
- We are guessing that the leaning has something to do with rounding errors of the Marlin planner (which "translates" the moving path to the number of steps).
- the current suggestion is: rounding of the extruder offsets to a multiple of one microstep (1/369mm for the UM2+ feeder) and check, if this makes a difference
correct me if i'm wrong...
- The extruder offsets are added to the current position on a tool change.
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I suffered from the same kind of mysterious shutdown. Still don't know why. The whole power management relies on assumptions, like the four values but also for the power the steppers will draw.
Well, it seems that some PSUs are more sensitive than others, or the heated bed draws more current than others, or something similar... (perhaps manufacturing tolerances and bad luck?). It's true that the dual extrusion setup scratches at the limits of the PSU, but it should not be necessary to change the power limits that drastically. I think you would have problems with single extrusion as well, if your heated bed really consumes 180W and your nozzle heater 80W....?
I'm pretty sure that a bigger PSU can help, but they are not cheap...
Another thought: what about the current of the stepper motors? If I remember right, i use 1150mA for all of them. Perhaps that has an influence as well?
And how much current draws the led light? (my led stripes are broken, so I don't use them). This are the only other differences that I can think of.
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The red marked area is probably where you want to make a change, set the X positions a bit lower.
@ultiarjan - IMHO this move should be X105 Y27
This is also the default for the Prime/Wipe position.
The default for the extruder offset should be X=18, Y=-25 (as a starting point for calibration). It seems that the "tinker" firmware does not set this automatically - I'll check it.
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That looks wrong...
Can you share pictures of the second printhead (coupled and in the dock) and feeder (where is it mounted)?
Are both UM2+ feeders/printheads or something different?
Also important: the settings on the printer for extruder offsets and wipe/prime position.
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I was one of the people who also had the power problem with the recenet tinker version, maybe connected?
Have you ever solved the former problem? If in doubt, you can try to reduce the "Total" value of the power budget by 10 Watts and see what happens. (The default is 175).
Advanced -> Preferences -> Power budget
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1, how can i reduce the speed of first move of head 1, before picking up head 2, because my belts jump over....
The tool change travel moves are done by the firmware, but not faster than 200mm/s. If your printer can not handle this, then there is definitely something wrong with it... Are you sure, that the print head (or the rods) does not collide with .... whatever...?
And yes: if you reduce the max. x/y speed of the printer settings, the Marlin firmware limits all moves to this speed (at least it's worth a try).
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Will there be support for S3D?
I use this 99% of the time.
If we have the startup / en and toolchange script / gcode we could start trying ;-)
Ofcourse i will help with this testing and tuning ;-)
There are no special differences. S3D does not (yet) generate the "temperature magic" like Cura, but besides that it's the same. Leave the tool change script empty (the firmware takes care of it) and copy the start/end-gcode from Cura (more or less).
I rarely use S3D for dual printing, the following is untested, just to give the idea:
;start M84 G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off M200 D0 T0 ;reset filament diameter M200 D0 T1 G28 ; home all M190 S[bed0_temperature] M109 S[extruder1_temperature] T1 M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 T1 ; move to the 2th head G0 X140 Y30 F9000 ; move to prime position G0 Z20 F2400 ;move the platform to 20mm G92 E0 ; zero the extruder length G1 E35 F225 ;purge nozzle quickly G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 E-4.5 F1500 ; retract G1 X120 Z0.01 F5000 ; move away from the prime poop G1 X90 F9000 ; move away from the prime poop G0 Z20 F2400 ;move the platform to 20 mm T0 ; move to the first head G0 X120 Y30 F9000; move to prime position G92 E0 G1 E35 F225 ;purge nozzle quickly G92 E0 G1 E-4.5 F1500 G1 X100 Z0.01 F5000 ; move away from the prime poop G1 X70 F9000 ; move away from the prime poop G0 Z10 F2400 ;move the platform to 10 mm ;end G90 ;absolute positioning M104 S0 T0 ;extruder heater off M104 S0 T1 M140 S0 ;turn off bed T0 ; move to the first head G28 ; home all M84 ;steppers off M107 ; fan off
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Hi Dirk,
welcome to the forum!
Most probably you accidentally plugged the hotend fan connector to the wrong port.
See here:
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Hallo designhub,
wenn ich das noch richtig in Erinnerung habe, liest diese Firmware-Version die Retraction-Settings fehlerhaft aus der MATERIAL.TXT ein. Ich weiß aber nicht, ob das in der Version, die Cura 2.5 mitbringt schon behoben wurde.
Du könntest mal kontrollieren, welche Einstellungen für das Material tatsächlich gespeichert sind und das ggf. direkt am Drucker korrigieren.
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Am I missing something?
Perhaps you have enabled the setting "Automatically drop models to the build plate" (Preferences -> General)?
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What is "sliding 8mm axis"?
Just take sure that none of the 8mm (rotating) rods can move in axial direction (best to check while the printer is switched off).
There are some black spacers between the pulleys and the ball bearings (at the inside of the panels), and the rotating rods are secured with the pulleys.
There should be no (or minimal) play in axial direction.
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The problems I have with puting the GCODE at fault are these:
- How could the same GCODE be printed differently between the two UM2+?
- How could CURA change the print property along X/Y? (print KO top left, OK bottom righ)
Well, there are several other possible reasons...
(double-) check the material settings on the printers. Temperature, fan, diameter, flow... all are exactly equal? Compare all motions settings (acceleration, retraction and motor current) as well.
Or a mechanical issue, like sliding 8mm axis, 6mm rods are "bananas", loose belts or something similar.
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Hi Gerd,
könntest du mir einen gefallen tun und mir mal die Maße des blauen Clips geben?
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1071_Clamp_Clip_(x2)
oder alternative Versionen von Youmagine:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-bowden-clip-thicker-version
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-bowden-clips-1mm-to-3-5mm
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Ich vermute mal, dass es mit der Druckgeschwindigkeit zusammenhängt.
Ändert sich denn die Druckgeschwindigkeit je nach Höhe? Das wäre bei der einfachen Geometrie zumindest ungewöhnlich...
Womit ist der gcode erzeugt? Cura?
Wenn die Geschwindigkeit sich in diesen Abständern ändert und die Drucktemperatur gleich bleibt, könnte das schon die Ursache sein.
Anderenfalls tippe ich auch auf: entweder Schwankungen der (Düsen-) Temperatur oder Schwankungen des Filament-Durchmessers.
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Zum Rückzug sind bei mir folgende werte eingestellt.
Minimale Leerfahr Distanz 1,5
Löcher umfahren ALL
Minimaler Vorschub vor nächstem Rückzug 0,02
Z anheben vor Rückzug 0,1
Na gut, aber wenn Du nur mit Octoprint arbeitest (kein UltiGCode), dann kannst Du da auch noch die Länge und Geschwindigkeit für den Rückzug einstellen.
Oder für UltiGCode sind die "Retraction"-Werte am Drucker entscheidend.
Wenn die richtig eingestellt sind, dürfte es überhaupt kein "Stringing" geben, aber keines davon hast Du uns bisher verraten...
Bei 0,06 Layerhöhe kannst Du wahrscheinlich auch noch deutlich die Temperatur reduzieren, das hilft auch. Und "Z anheben vor Rückzug" ist bei der Layerhöhe vermutlich kontraproduktiv, aber das kommt später...
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I noticed the following yesterday:
- load a model, let it slice automatically
- add a "Pause at z" post processing script
- save the gcode as a file
- afterwards: open the settings of the post processing script with the "Tools" button and change a setting (the pause height in this example)
- save the gcode a second time with the same file filename
Result: the file content does not change, the changed height for the pause is ignored.
Workaround:
Change the position of the model or another parameter (automatically re-slicing is invoked) and save the gcode file again. Now the post processing with the new settings takes place as well.
Hope that helps.
- load a model, let it slice automatically
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Ich nehme an, das extreme Stringing entsteht bei Dir durch eine zu hohe Düsentemperatur {zu hoch eingestellt oder ein Sensorproblem}.
Oder die Retraction-Einstellungen am Drucker sind total daneben (Länge und Speed)?
Ich glaube, die Werte wurden bisher noch nicht erwähnt (und vorausgesetzt, es wird UltiGCode benutzt).
Mark 2 Upgrade
in Deutsch
Posted
Ich vermute, das es am Start-GCode liegt...
Kannst Du in den "Machine Settings" (oder versuchsweise einfach mal direkt in der erzeugten gcode-Datei) diese Zeile ein Stück nach oben verschieben (siehe Bild):
Etwas längere Erklärung:
Beim Wechsel auf den zweiten Druckkopf (T1) fährt die Z-Achse um den Betrag des Z-Offset nach unten. Das geht aber nicht in jedem Fall, weil sie nach dem "Homing" noch (fast) ganz unten steht. Daher kommt das "Rattern" am Anfang und die Z-Position stimmt dann nicht mehr.