tinkergnome
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Posts posted by tinkergnome
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Hmm, dann muss ich mir das nochmal genauer anschauen. Ich habe früher auch eine Fühlerlehre mit dem Assistent verwendet, glaub die 0,07mm. Das würde auch von daher Sinn machen, weil Tinkergnome bestimmt auch auf das zurück greift, was die Original-Firmware schon mitbringt. @Tinkergnome, vielleicht kannst du uns ja aus erster Hand erhellen
Wie, wo? Was muss ich alles lesen...?
Der normale "Adjust buildplate" wizard ist unverändert (wie in der Standard-Firmware mit Papier 0.1mm).
Für "Adjust Z height" (bei den Expert functions) wird kein Offset benutzt. Das ist genau so gedacht, wie Du oben geschrieben hast. Mit der richtigen Beleuchtung funktioniert das mit der Spiegelung ganz gut. Wenn der kleine Lüfter läuft, hört man auch, wenn man "dran" ist (die Augen werden ja im Alter nicht besser... 8)).
Vllt ne info zur einstellung per "adjust z-height": hier muss die düse OHNE papier eingestellt werden, also genau das glas berühren. ich finds super, weil man durch die spiegelung sehr gut sieht, wenn man dran ist. ich dreh immer hoch, bis sich der abstand nicht mehr verkleinert und dann einmal zurück.
Ich fand auch wichtig, das man den resultierenden "homing offset" direkt ablesen kann. So kann man noch ein paar hundertstel in die eine oder andere Richtung korrigieren, wenn man damit bessere Erfahrungen gesammelt hat.
Wenn man öfter Düsen mit verschiedener Länge benutzt, kann man sich den Wert auch aufschreiben und beim nächsten Mal direkt wieder einstellen.
Der Grund für die 0,03mm Schritte ist, das Marlin grundsätzlich keine Bewegungen mit weniger als 5 (Micro-)Steps ausführt. Wenn nur die Z-Achse bewegt wird, sind das 0,025mm. Ich nehme an, dafür gibt es gute Gründe, deshalb hab ich daran lieber nicht herumgespielt... Weiß von Euch jemand mehr darüber?
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Should I be adding brim? The entire base of the print is support material. How much? Distance? Line count?
In this case i would use a raft (with "Air Gap" changed to 0.0).
This should result in a stable base for the supports.
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I would rather compile my own version of Tinkergnomes firmware... do you have any recommendations on which settings for purge and retraction after would make sense as a start?
It is related to the settings at the end of Configuration.h:
I read somewhere that 20mm for END_OF_PRINT_RETRACTION is perhaps a bit too much (material can get jammed in the PTFE coupler). I use 12mm most of the time.
The extra priming at start is 50 cubic mm (approx. 8mm for filament with a diameter of 2.85mm) . If this is not sufficient, you can try to increase this a bit.
And keep in mind, that this stuff depends on the material diameter of the current selected material on the machine.
In addition: at the moment i think, that a value of 5 for PRIMING_MM3_PER_SEC is a bit too high, but I have not (yet) made any further experiments.
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As far as I know when you manually trigger an end stop you see immediately in the movement of your printhead during a print. I don't think it is being ignored during a print.
That's one of the (rare) differences between the Marlin configurations of UMO and UM2... - you own both - just try it out!
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While I am waiting for the print, I do believe I am just going to order the stop switches. They're cheap enough I'm willing to swallow my pride as a technician and just throw a pair at it and see what happens.
I have no idea about your shifted prints, so just out of interest:
Why do you suspect the end stops? AFAIK the end stops are only used during "homing", but completely ignored during a print.
Or do you use a customized firmware?
Are you printing from sd-card or is the USB cable connected?
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secondly, even with a different slicer, i would need to expand on the PVA and have something like a prime tower.
I see, our opinions differ not soooo much..
Well, call me a nitpicker...
- but if one uses "horizontal expansion" the sliced model becomes bigger (yes - for sure - the supports are part of the sliced model). And the bigger model has to fit into the build volume. I don't believe that someone has different expectations...? (it's the same with an ooze shield, draft shield, skirt, brim,.. whatever...)During the beta test I printed nearly all PVA tests without a prime tower. That worked just fine - just try it out. I regard this as a benefit of the printer, not as a limitation...
Sorry, but I disagree about another point: You don't need to use Cura. The printer already works with gcode from other slicers and I'm sure, that this will be even more simple in the future.
I agree, that Ultimaker should provide printer definitions for Cura that are allowing the use of the whole print volume (especially for single extrusion). I assume this is only a matter of time and finally: it's open source...
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totally understand that this is a hard egg to crack.. but still.. if i buy a printer and i load a model that is smaller then advertised, and I can't print it.. I might be annoyed.
sure, the wipe tower might not always be needed, but horizontal expansion is seriously needed when doing PVA..
so perhaps there might be at least an asterisk that indicates that the volume is " fluid" so to say..
my two cents:
IMHO none of your arguments are related to the specifications of the printer, instead you're talking about restrictions of the slicer.
I think one should not mix-up these things. The printer has a specified build volume and that's correctly stated on the data sheet. Point.
If one wants to prepare print files with Cura (free of charge) there are some restrictions / settings that are leading to the fact that Cura can not use the whole build volume out of the box... so what...
With other words: the free slicer in it's current version does not use the full potential of the device. That's not ideal from the manufacturer's perspective, but does not change the technical data of the printer, does it?
The printer and Cura are not strictly bundled. If any - the "asterisks" has to be added to the Cura manual, not for the printer.
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I'd really like to see video of these wonderful monsters being created!
I understand that, but i think this is the privilege of the inventor.
(moreover - i don't have the right equipment for such things...
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Teasing? Now that's just plain mean
Hey - at least one has to prove the concept...
I have sacrificed myself! 8)
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Is there some recommended manual that I should read to get all of this type of information in one place?
I'm not sure, if this answers your question...
...but there is a page with all Ultimaker manuals. This should be a good start.
Edit: damn... Team Ultimaker was faster...
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There will be a fresh start with all relevant and up-to-date information in a few weeks.
Want another teaser?
... I made some decorations for next MondayIn summary approx. 40 printing hours without any problem.
- Sliced with Cura 2.3.0
- Printed on Ultimaker 2 with
- (dual) Extrusion Upgrade Kit
- foehnsturm toolhead changer
- foehnsturm "Spandex" add-on
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Hm. There is not any start/end.GCode in UltiGCode.
As far as i can see, the first Z-Move in UltiGCode is a combined move like this:
..
;LAYER:0
M107
G10
G0 F2400 X103.645 Y103.403 Z.27 //combined move to print start
..
Which Cura version are you using?
I remember that the first move command looks different, if the skirt is "misused" as a replacement for brim (line count > 1 and/or a very small start distance).
Can you show us the first few lines of the gcode file?
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...and in addition: it's not only a question of the slicer.
You will also need a firmware that can handle more than one extruder coordinate.
(AFAIK Marlin is not able to do that).
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What software did you use to capture the stream ?
- "Media" -> "Open Network Stream..."
- activate "View" -> "Advanced Controls"
- hit the record button
This saves the stream data "as is", but VLC can open the file later and encode it to mp4 (e.g.)
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Here is my first attempt to record the camera stream. The content is boring - it's just to prove the possibilities.
IMHO the resolution is totally sufficient for monitoring. You will not make a cine film with your printer's camera, right?
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@neotko: OMG... calm down - Tomorrow will be time enough.
One small addition:
VLC media player can display (and record) the camera stream as well.
...and the stream is not directly to be seen in Cura (a.t.m.?), it takes only a snapshot every two seconds (probably to conserve resources?)
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Original PSU, the firmware does some smart power management automatically in the way you mentioned.
Actually it's not _that_ smart, but pretty simple. It just benefits from the fact that not all heaters are running on full power all the time. The firmware cannot measure the momentary current, but is able to add up (and limit) the pwm output to the heaters.
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Is this possible to wipe the nozzle, still to get, or I have to compromise.
I'm not aware that the start-/end positions are related to the wiping moves. The relations between all these settings are still a "grab bag" to me...
"Wipe Nozzle on Prime Tower" is still activated in the Cura profile?
The additional G10 should be ignored by the Marlin firmware, because it's already retracted. Have you noticed a different behavior?
BTW: I think we are on the wrong thread...
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It seems, that the related stuff in not in there... but in the extruder definitions.
If you change it like this, the tool change retractions are back:
{ "id": "ultimaker2_dual_1st", "version": 2, "name": "1st Extruder", "inherits": "fdmextruder", "metadata": { "machine": "ultimaker2_dual", "position": "0" }, "overrides": { "extruder_nr": { "default_value": 0, "maximum_value": "1" }, "machine_nozzle_offset_x": { "default_value": 0.0 }, "machine_nozzle_offset_y": { "default_value": 0.0 }, "machine_extruder_start_pos_abs": { "default_value": false }, "machine_extruder_start_pos_x": { "value": 0.0 }, "machine_extruder_start_pos_y": { "value": 0.0 }, "machine_extruder_end_pos_abs": { "default_value": false }, "machine_extruder_end_pos_x": { "value": 0.0 }, "machine_extruder_end_pos_y": { "value": 0.0 } }}-
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Aahhh... 35mm - so a little bit more than the space at UMO or UM2. So assume the whole head is also bigger... Thanks for the hint.
Nope. The distance between the nozzles is 18mm (*) and the whole printhead is 100mm wide. Both exactly the same as at the UM2.
(*) you can verify it, just take a look at the definition files of Cura 2.3
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However not sure about the firmware download. Newer Cura releases were quite restrictive there. To download our enhanced (Tinker-powered) firmware I use an old Cura release.
That's not longer necessary. Cura 2.3 can upload custom firmware files. It works flawless like before.
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I also have the font issue. It's a display resolution thing. On our retina imacs and macbooks the font looks nothing but great. But on "standard" displays ... :(
Line thickness is simply too thin, so antialiasing doesn't work well there.
Ahh, that's a good explanation.
I was already worried about my eyes... :(
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I got a 12€ usb/serial cable for this A20 boards and plugged in to have total access
Was it something special or is one of these USB-TTL converters sufficient?
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What source? I mean the whole machine is working under python scrips. All the main stuff has info added inside and while isn't super easy is quite ok. If you download the firmware directly you can xz/tar it and you have everything except the marlin jedi.hex that's compiled already
that's what I'm saying...
...and be careful - don't break it .. again...
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Rumbling sound over previous layer?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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