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tinkergnome

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Posts posted by tinkergnome

    Filament guide needed?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    I don't know how this can be. Can you post a photo? Maybe it slipped through QA or (what I don't hope) you've got a clone.

     

    AFAIK the design of the backplane has changed over time. I'm not sure, but I think that newer models of the UM2 came without the filament guide.

    This is how it looks at the current UM2+ models:

    part_1231.thumb.png.bbe5a545246f74ac8f25a10e5ac0e959.png5a33287f6d933_um2backplane.PNG.f60a4900f6a53ea917068e1be6874a94.PNG

    part_1231.thumb.png.bbe5a545246f74ac8f25a10e5ac0e959.png

    5a33287f6d933_um2backplane.PNG.f60a4900f6a53ea917068e1be6874a94.PNG

    Howto - OctoPrint, Raspberry Pi 2 und UM2 Extended mit Standard Firmware

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    ist es beim Ultimaker3 nicht auf der gleiche Art und weise? Also mit Kommentarzeilen am Anfang der Programm Datei!

     

    Ich glaube, nicht. Außer das diese Kopfzeilen ebenfalls Kommentare sind, die am Anfang der Datei stehen, gibt es da keine Gemeinsamkeiten.

    Der Header soll im Wesentlichen verhindern, das der Drucker aus Versehen mit einer Datei gefüttert wird, die gar nicht für ihn gedacht ist (z.B. ein Modell für den "Extended", das in den "kleinen" gar nicht reinpasst... ). Man kann Dateien ohne den richtigen Header zwar trotzdem starten, aber es gibt vorher eine Warnung.

    Es gibt als Erweiterung noch ein oder zwei "custom gcodes", die für das "Häufchen-machen" beim Druckstart verwendet werden können (aber nicht müssen...). Der Rest ist normaler RepRap-Gcode. Ich finde, das ist auch gut so, man behält damit die Flexibilität, einen Slicer seiner Wahl zu benutzen und ist nicht auf Cura beschränkt.

    Howto - OctoPrint, Raspberry Pi 2 und UM2 Extended mit Standard Firmware

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Aber was mich schon lange beschäftigt, warum kann man per Octoprint nicht mit UltiGCode Drucken??

     

    Das ist die falsche Frage... Octoprint kann da nicht viel tun.

    UltiGCode wird ja nur durch die Kommentarzeilen am Anfang der Datei gekennzeichnet. Nur werden Kommentare im gcode während des Normalbetriebes von der Marlin-Firmware komplett ignoriert.

    Die einzige Aktion, bei der die "Ulti"-Kommentarzeilen ausgewertet werden, ist die Auswahl einer Datei von sd-Karte direkt am Drucker. Es gibt einfach keine Möglichkeit, dem Drucker von aussen mitzuteilen, das die Materialeinstellungen vom Gerät verwendet werden sollen. Das ist alles.

    Wenn ich das richtig verstanden habe, wird Ultimaker diesen Weg auch nicht weiter beschreiten. Bei der immer größeren Auswahl an Materialien gibt es inzwischen immer mehr Parameter, die jeweils angepasst werden müssen - das kann der Slicer besser.

    • Like 1

    Having to use Move Material for additional prints

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    It seems like when I power on my Ultimaker 2+ and load a print, enough material is extruded to start the print. Once that print is complete and I load the next print, no material will extrude (or not enough) to ruin the attempt. (Even with 3 skirt lines!)

     

    @LePaul

    I wonder, if you are using the 'standard' workflow - printing from SD-card with UltiGCode - or something different? Have you changed any machine settings in Cura and/or are you printing via USB/Octoprint?

    ...and the exact version numbers (and operation system) are interesting, "latest version" is too vague...

    CURA 2.4 Machine Settings

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Anybody know what is the normal behavior of storing changed machine settings in cura2.4 ?

    When I make changes to the start-end code it gets stored, but not written back into the machine .json file in C:/program files etc....

    So where does it get stored?

     

    Take a look at your configuration folder:

    %LOCALAPPDATA%\cura\machine_instances

    There's a file with the printer's name that ends with *_settings.inst.cfg

    • Like 1

    Meaning of LED colors of rotation button

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    The color really turned into green.

     

    Don't worry, there's nothing wrong with your visual perception. :)

    The led ring of the encoder wheel contains multicolor (RGB) leds. Fatal errors are usually indicated by a "glowing" color-change of the encoder wheel. Most likely all came to a halt while the color was green, but before the printer was able to write the exact error message on the screen.

    UM2 Dual extruder to single hotend?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Any idea if a safety is triggered when using two pt100s in the heater block and only one heater cartridge? Because I'm thinking about slight temperature adjustments that might be needed for different colors of the same filament material.

     

    To be honest: I assume i missed something... why do you need a second temperature sensor at the same hotend? It would always report the same temperature as the other one (more or less).

    The second temperature sensor is not a problem, but a "heater error" is triggered, if you try to heat up a non-existing heater. That's why your gcode should never try to set a temperature for the second extruder. You can always set the target temperature for T0, and change it on every tool change (e.g. with a post-processing script). I bet that's one of the things that the script from Mr. Průša does.

    It should also be possible to change all this behavior in the firmware. You can decide at some point whatever is easier for you in the end. @gr5 shared his notes about a proper build environment for Windows here.

    Sequence imprimanter

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted

    Note that I don't have a UM3 myself, so I have not tested the definition. If you try it please report if it works.

     

    A first observation: the default UM3 profiles have the prime tower enabled, and it can not be disabled, because this setting is hidden for single extruder machines... :)

    I don't know, if this can be overridden by the machine settings.

    The workaround is: create a profile with disabled prime tower (while the "normal" UM3 is the current printer).

    EM3 Ex single extrusion on Princore2

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Please note that if you print with a brim, you can select with which extruder the brim is printed separately. this option is found in the settings list on the right side.

     

    In addition: i think, there is a similar selection for the support extruder (switch it to Extruder 2 even if support is not used).

    Don't forget to set all temperatures for Extruder 1 to zero (including "Standby Temperature"). Save all settings as a new profile (for the next time), and that's it. I'm pretty sure, that I have done it before...

    UM2 Dual extruder to single hotend?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Oh no, please do not have another project...

    May i quote Mr. Průša?

     

    The whole process is stupidly simple in theory, but devil is in the details and execution.

    He says in the comments that all the hard work is done by a post processing script. I think, this is the correct approach to achieve the wanted result without a need for customized firmware and with minimal additional hardware.

    Personally I would not connect two outputs to one heating element. There is only one hotend, i would stick with one heater and one temperature sensor.

    The only problem is: the dual Marlin versions are working fine without a second heater, but not without the second temperature sensor (for safety reasons). But a PT100 can be easily faked by a simple resistor. If cold extrusions are allowed (M302), Marlin has no problem to move the second extruder motor (assuming that the faked sensor simulates room temperature).

    As long as you don't want to mix both materials, some custom tool change scripts and/or a bit of post-processing should do the trick (and is needed anyways for the retraction/priming/wipe tower stuff).

    UM3-Extended - Error 12C-Why?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Bump...Seriously? Nobody has a clue or will answer?

     

    Hi Eric,

    one reason is probably that there's not such a thing like "UM3-Extended - Error 12C".

    I assume, that you have to be a bit more precise, if you want useful hints from the community...

    Where have you bought your printer? Your reseller should be able to forward you to a trained person who can sort this out (together with you).

    • Like 1

    UM3+ difficult to peel of the brim .

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Yup a brim disadvantage. To manage this I would suggest

    1. Put a filet around the bottom surface

    2. Buy a good quality modelling knife, useful if you have a compete wall you need to cut away; and a good set of jewellers files - probable cost 30-50 eu

    3. Learn how to use a file - it will be on the internet somewhere or ask a jeweller

     

    In addition: there are also special deburring tools (not very expensive).

    No recommendation, only two examples to illustrate how it looks like:

    http://www.vargus.com/shaviv/

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PIECE-DEBURRING-TOOL-SET-E-2001-0222-/232218419743

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