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tinkergnome

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Posts posted by tinkergnome

    Dual Nozzle Ultimaker 2

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Maybe the firmware that user used its the answer to your problems. Maybe the name was tinkergnome?

     

    No - i'm not involved at all... (on purpose) :)

    As far as i can see, the lack of support is not the only problem... In addition the download links for the firmware are non-functional (online installation guide)

    @Shane

    You can get some files, if you use the following links. But i have no clue, if this stuff is useful for you...?

    For Firefox browsers: with the right mouse button and "Save target as..." (or the similar function on others browsers)

    Ulticreatr 2X firmware for Ultimaker 2(+)

    http://ulti.creatr.it/en/support/2x/Ultimaker-2-Ulticreatr-2X-v1-1.hex

    Ulticreatr 2X firmware for Ultimaker 2 Extended(+)

    http://ulti.creatr.it/en/support/2x/Ultimaker-2Extended-Ulticreatr-2X-v1-1.hex

    And - as you already know:

    No more heated buildplate after you've installed this kit.

    I'm not sure, if a bigger power supply is sufficient to solve this problem. The kit includes the bluetape for a reason...

    22_EmoticonsHDcom.png

    • Like 1

    Having trouble with any print longer than 4h (Ultimaker 2 Extended)

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Just wondering (I might be absolutely wrong about this)

    - What's the room temperature?

    - How does the filament looks when this happens (does it has a big bite?)

    - What color are you using?

    - Its a um2extended plus or non plus?

    - Print hours since last time coupler was installed?

    - Photos of the failed prints helps BIG time to see what might be happening.

     

    in addition:

    - all three fans of the printhead are operational?

    Printing times of 30 hours and more are not uncommon, the machine can handle long prints without problems (if it is in a good condition...)

    X or Y switch broken

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    toms_tk has been silent, lol and yet people still post here.  Toms - it's okay if you don't own an UM.  You can still post stuff to the forums.

     

    Oh, sure- @toms_tk - don't wanted to banish you... don't worry.

    It's just a bit harder to give you hints, because no one knows which parts are assembled inside of this beautiful piece of art... :)

    I assume that you'll notice additional issues soon. Just ask - George will do it's best!

    65_EmoticonsHDcom.png

    X or Y switch broken

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Obviously that's not a new printer, isn't it? Or perhaps even a good looking copy?

    Just to be sure: can you make a picture of the manufacurer label (on the bottom of the printer)?

    At least the fan shroud looks a bit weird. It's bended and the fans are looking bigger than the original ones.

    Is it possible that the printhead just hits the left wall instead of the limit switch?

    Edit: the encoder knob is suspicious too and it's missing the "Extended" label on the back of the buildplate.

    To be honest: i think it's not an Ultimaker at all... where did you get it from ? You should ask your reseller for help!

    Bondtech QR 3.0 Universal

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Ich weis aber weder die E-Steps von Bondtech Feeder oder die wahrscheinlich geänderte Material wechsel Speed in der Bondtech Firmware, deshalb kann ich dir keine 100% Entwarnung geben.

     

    492.45 steps/mm und

    50 mm/s "FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED"

    In der Tinker sind es ungefähr 54 mm/s (26.500 / 492,45), das sollte keinen großen Unterschied machen.

    • Like 1

    Überextrusion?

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Die Düsen sind tip top sauber von innen, sogar hochglanzpoliert und ich habe Sie von Andreas Neufeld erworben. Die Qualität ist einwandfrei. Habe sogar das Hotend wieder rückgebaut, also die Feder wieder installiert, weil ich dachte, der Federersatz macht die Probleme, also dass zuviel Wärme in den Heatbreakbereich kommt - keine Änderung. Ob das Board einen Schaden hat? Bin mittlerweile leicht frustriert.

    Was sind das denn für Düsen? Die "normalen" von E3D oder irgendwas anderes?

    Nicht jede Düsengeometrie ist gut geeignet für Überhänge...

    Anderes Material hast Du ja schon ausprobiert. Hast Du auch noch andere Düsen da, dann wäre das noch einen Versuch wert. Auf jeden Fall würdest Du dann sehen, ob es einen Unterschied gibt (egal in welche Richtung... :))

    GCODE Scripts for OctoPrint and the UM2+?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    UltiGCode uses volumetric e-values, i assume, that you have changed the GCode-Flavor in Cura to "Reprap/Marlin", right?

    The remaining problem is, that Octoprint has (obviously) no clue about the temperatures that you have defined in Cura (as Mark Walker said: this part is executed after the start script from Octoprint).

    You can add values for M109 and M190 to your Octoprint script, but only with fixed values that you have to change for different materials.

    As an alternative: you can (pre-) heat buildplate and nozzle manually with Octoprint before you start the print.

    But that's sooo inconvenient..., and i'm still not sure about your intention...?

    It's so much easier to use the start/end-code from within the slicer.

    • Like 1

    Howto - OctoPrint, Raspberry Pi 2 und UM2 Extended mit Standard Firmware

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Bei den Axen steht mm/min und wenn ich am Drucker in den "Motion settings" schaue, dann sehe ich z.B. für x/y den Wert 300mm/sec was 18000 mm/min entspricht.

    Wie seht ihr das?

    Naja, jetzt stimmt das Build-Volume noch nicht... :)

    Abgesehen davon, sind das IMHO "nur" die Werte, die Octoprint benutzt, wenn Du auch damit sliced (also für die mitgelieferte CuraEngine).

    Für den "Normal"-Betrieb als Drucker-Server sind die Werte nicht relevant (jedenfalls soweit ich das verstehe...)

    Extruder position and temperature values

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    So, I was looking into how I can "talk" to the printer. What do you recommend for that ? I mean what is good way to talk to the printer through serial ? a terminal program ?

     

    It depends... :)

    I'm not aware of a "ready to use" tool, that fits your needs.

    Perhaps pronterface would be a good starting point for your work. It has a graphical user interface, but a terminal window as well. Perhaps you can use the terminal window to test the approach and the "pronsole" part (and some additional scripting) for automation and recording.

    It's open source - so at least you should be able to get some suggestions how to connect to the printer and send/receive commands. How are your programming skills?

    A Coffee between friends :-) How was Your Day ?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Well, it's no universal solution for all failed prints... :)

    It works the same way like you would do it manually: skip all layers until the specified height is reached and start printing from there.

    And don't forget to make sure, that the heated bed stays hot all the time (immediately heatup the buildplate after the print is aborted).

    I rarely have a need for it, but just in case:

    You can use the "Move axis" function (or pronterface) to determine the correct z-height. Home all axis, move the (cold!) nozzle above a suitable spot of the printed object and move the buildplate upwards until the nozzle touches the last (fully) printed layer.

    • Like 1

    Another Ultimaker 2 heated bed issue

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Anyway I never heard of "ER02".

     

    In more recent firmware versions some of the error messages are amended by a (short-) link to the corresponding troubleshooting webpage. That's what these numbers are good for:

     

     

    These are shortcuts to a specific page from this list:

    https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/troubleshooting/error-messages

    There are instructions for (DIY) diagnose and a lot of pictures. Very handy - just in case...

    UM2+ defaut E STEP value

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    How can the same @tinkergnome versions have different step values? Could it be because I used the original UM2+ firmware before on one printer?

     

    I use the same source files for all variants, that's the reason why the e-steps stay on the (wrong) value of 282 for upgraded printers. It's the first time that someone noticed this... :)

    I'll put it on the todo list for future releases.

    And yes: there's no (implicit) factory reset, if you already have installed any 'plus' firmware before (no matter, if the old or the new one is the standard or the tinker version).

    • Like 1

    Custom firmware - Demo

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    I have only implemented some extra functionality for now, and I'm working on the preheat menu, but the list of changes and updates that I have in mind is quite extensive.

     

    well, you want to make it public later - ask yourself how much time you can invest, and how many years you are able to maintain it...

    ...and after that: have fun making it!

     

    I want to know your opinion on the overall appearance and structure of menu options. And of course, in a later time I will open the source.

     

    If you're interested in my opinion...

    I like the icons, but i would prefer a main menu, where i can see all possible option without scrolling.

    The structure of menu options is always a matter of personal taste, and how the printer is used.

    E.g.: If someone prints only via USB, he don't needs the 'Print' menu, but instead more control options during printing.

    If someone don't uses Cura or UltiGcode, he never uses 'Material Settings'...

    If someone often changes nozzles, he would prefer a simpler way to adjust the distance to the buildplate...

    ...and so on...

    I would recommend: just use a structure that fits your own needs (or find a way to make it configurable at runtime...)

    • Like 1

    Custom firmware - Demo

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    For the buildplate, a function to manually move the plate up and down step by step, by turning the wheel, would also be nice. This when not printing. (I don't know if it would be a good idea while printing, maybe too risky?)

     

    'while printing' is where the fun starts :)

    ...and very useful to tune the distance between nozzle and buildplate while it prints the skirt/brim.

     

    • Like 1

    More information during print

    in Firmware

    Posted

    @tinkergnome - already 2 people have complained about the latest UM2 firmware which limits bed temp to 100C (I and other's prefer 110C for ABS which is achievable if you enclose the machine).  This is in the latest cura I believe - 15.04.6 (I don't think it's in 2.1.2 yet - not sure though).  I'm hoping you don't merge in that "bad" code that limits bed to 100C.  Do you know if your latest Marlin has this 100C limit?  Will you keep that "bug" out of your future versions please?

     

    Don't be afraid, i do not merge everything... :) - the tinker versions have skipped this step.

    I think you're talking about this commit

    If i remember right, the limit for the "plus" machines is 115C (at the moment...)

    More information during print

    in Firmware

    Posted

    On the other hand, Daid and tinkergnome, what do you use to convert bitmaps to byte arrays for Ultimaker 2 Marlin? I've tried every program that I've found with no luck. it seems like the hex to bits conversion order is different or maybe there are any shift.

     

    For the small icons i do it manually...

    LCDAssistant generates a (nearly) correct array with "Byte orientation=Vertical", but the size of the bitmap (first two positions of the array) has to be added as single bytes. You can check "include size" and remove the two 0x00 bytes from the first line, or add the size manually. That should work.

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