tinkergnome
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Posts posted by tinkergnome
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And maybe you have a pointer or two about how to setup the toolchain. I am on a Mac (10.11.4).
I tried to copy the development environment from daid (as far as possible). Try to follow the instructions from these links:
Marlin Simulation... on your desktop?!? (For developers)
Missing note about how to compile and run the simulator
For compiling i use the relevant parts from the (Cura) package.sh (thanks @daid
)This should work on a Mac too (after adjusting some path variables probably).
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Can this be the material exchange speed in your firmware is faster than in the standard Ultimaker 2+ firmware ??
The speed for the material change wizard depends on the steps/mm of the extruder axis (it's the same for reverse and forward).
The used math is simple: 26500 / axis_steps_per_unit[E_AXIS]
It's approx. 94 mm/s for an UM2, 72 mm/s for UM2+ and 54 mm/s for the Bondtech extruder.
The standard UM2.1 firmware (for the "plus" models) uses a fix value of 80 mm/s. So actually the speeds of the tinker fork are a bit slower.
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Imagine a cylinder i am printing vertically. The edges of the cylinder against the bed are going to curl up a bit. If i glue 2 ovals together, they won't match up perfectly and i have to use filler/sand/paint which kills my profit.
My advice in this case: print it on a cold buildplate, covered with bluetape (like on the UM2go).
Don't forget to re-level the buildplate (because of the bluetape...) and clean the tape with isopropyl alcohol before printing (to get the wax off).
Benefits are: strong adhesion on the tape and a nice rough surface on the bottom - perfect for glueing.
as an explanation:
You're printing with a lot of cooling fan. The plastic shrinks at the higher layers and curls up the edges, because the lower layers are still soft (above the glass temp). It's not a big problem for large flat objects, but for other things (like tall boxes) a cold buildplate works much better.
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tinkerGnome doesn't really have a need or a way to easily test it.
Both...
So I urge you to get the firmware here - the "tinker 16.02" version with my special updates:
...i second this!
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Wahrscheinlich ist das ein Allerweltsprodukt, welches man überall bekommen kann. Dann wäre meine Frage, wie sich diese Schrauben korrekt nennen, so dass ich nach ihnen suchen kann?
Allerweltsprodukt stimmt, in deutsch heißen die einfach "Linsenkopf Innensechskant", oder eben "ISO 7380"
Am Gehäuse sind diverse Längen in M3 verbaut, die Liste findest Du in der "BOM" (Partnummer "12000" ff.)
Gibts in jedem gut sortierten Baumarkt, oder bei Amazon und Ebay...
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Edit, still want to now what that setting on the machine in your materials is for?
The fan setting of the current material preset works as an (additional) multiplier.
For example:
If you define a fan speed of 50% in the slicer and use a material preset with a (max.) fan speed of 70%, your fans are actually running at 35% (0.5 * 0.7).
With other words:
The printer's "TUNE" menu always shows the value from the slicer (50% in this example), but the effective speed can be reduced by the selected material profile.
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I just upgraded my 2 year old UM2 with the upgrade kit, and used 16.03+, the runtime stats do indead reboot the machine... lights out... and back to main menu.
...and in addtion: the pause / change material function is broken...
I'll try to fix it soon, but spare time is very rare a.t.m.
What I also think is different from other versions I used;
- after installing 16.03+ the machine starts with "first run"
- after bed leveling (tried 2 times) the machine asks for which material to use, not perse bad, but I don't like that it's like in first run, complete with the "lets make your first print".
Yep. The upgrade to the "+" firmware performs an implicit factory reset. That's the intended behaviour of the standard firmware and i have not changed it.
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I also re built the head 3 weeks ago with new Ptfe and turned my own spacer up
I wonder, if this gap has something to do with your issues.
At least i know that this should not be there...
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Could we also get a UM2+ Dual firmware for us with special printers?
No - that's off topic...
The question is: which rotation direction of the second feeder? AFAIK the plus feeder cannot be mirrored (at least not as easy as the old one). You're using a mirrored "Robert" on your special printer if i'm right? I can compile a variant for you, but this is indeed very "special".
We will have a firmware with switchable axis directions someday...if anyone finds some time...
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Tried reloading the firmware, still having the same issue... didn't have the issue with 16.01
...in this case there's a chance that it depends on the displayed values...
If it works with V16.01 - can you share a picture of the screen? I've no other idea a.t.m.
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@Tinkergnome , just thought I'd mention, in the latest version of the firmware 16.03 for UM2, when I select "runtime stats", the machine just reboots instead of displaying the stats.
Thanks
That's normal - your printer's lifetime has expired...
(just kidding)Seriously: is it reproducible? Has anyone else noticed the same behaviour?
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it would be nice if Tinkergnome started including it in his releases so it keeps up to date.
It needs a test, are you interested?
Choose the variant
"Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2go-HBK-16.03.hex"
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tinkerGnome
love your firmware by the way...
I asked that specific Question to Bondtech and the answer I got back was download there firmware which is your moded ?? then no need for the Gcode, I have done a print out it seemed good
??????
I don't know exactly the changes from bondtech, AFAIK the rotation direction is reversed and the default steps/mm for the e-axis are changed to 492.45 (for the Bondtech QR).
Usually the default values from a new firmware are only used if there are no settings stored in the EEPROM or after a factory reset.
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I downloaded the firmware hex file from BondTech for the Ultimaker2 and installed it. I did not change or adjust any of the steps. My understanding was the steps had already been adjusted.
Nope.
I thought this is explained in the bondtech manual...?
The setting is stored in the printers EEPROM. You can do a factory reset, or "print" the short gcode script from the bondtech website.
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I am using an Olson setup and a Bondtech QR extruder. I did download and install the current firmware from Bondtech.
...and you have changed the steps/mm for the e axis? (that's important)
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The limit switch at the bottom is triggered by the small screw at the back of the buildplate. After that the axis is backed off by 7mm. The error message means, that the endstop is still triggered.
If you have replaced the heated bed - is anything different with the "trigger-screw" now?
In addition: "connection looks good" means nothing...
Can you test the endstop switch with a continuity checker?
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Sadly I don't have the solution but I'd like to achieve the same. Spiralize is a hack and not very reliable. But I think spiralize absolutely needs a closed surface to draw a loop while changing the z-height. So your model might just not be compatible with it.
AFAIK Cura always creates a closed loop (or: two passes) on a wall. It should work with Cura if you design the walls slightly thicker than the nozzle diameter (>=0.5mm).
Or "lie" about the nozzle diameter in Cura (define it smaller then it is).
I'm not sure if there are other slicers that work different?
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Check your selected material profile on the printer:
Material -> Settings
Or - on the heatup screen: Goto "TUNE" and check the target temperatures for buildplate and nozzle. If they are not set (zero) the print will never start...
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Here is a thread with a potential solution , @Gr5, do you possibly know what other reason I am trying to think of?
This brief instruction brings the "Ultibot zombie" back to it's normal size.
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It sets the microstepping for the z-axis, open=8 (default), closed=16.
AFAIK all other axis are already on 16 microsteps.
If you close it with a jumper don't forget to double the steps/mm for the z-axis (from 200 to 400). The sound is a bit different afterwards, but besides that i noticed neither benefits nor drawbacks...
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Would be great if ULTIMAKER could confirm that assumptions and whether they plan to change according to tinkergnome's suggestion?
Apparently the bug is fixed in the source files - it has even a number...
I think you can take this as a confirmation.
Let's see when a new release wil be published, probably soon?
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I have a small feature request:
Please skip the "Sign up reminder" popup, if the login dialog is already open...
It should not pop up while i try to type my email-address... that's a bit annoying :angry:
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Try selecting the "Ultimaker Original" (without the "+") - if it now starts, it's probably related to this issue (there's a workaround but no solution yet...).
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Is this from the slicer or the printer?
I'm pretty sure that's the slicer. You can make a short test with another slicer, print and compare the result - just to be sure...
It looks like the opposite of a "z-scar". If you look at the preview (single layer view) - the seam is probably exactly at the layer change position.
Related settings in Simplify3D are:
- layer change position
- retraction restart distance
- coat distance
- wipe distance
...and the retraction options on the "Advanced" tab.
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takes a while to print after material change
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Yep, sounds similar to this thread...