cloakfiend

Yes it appears to be better. Thanks.

I always wondered how nice those tri-style printers were and by the looks of it very nice layer increments even though it looks so flimsy ....and bringing back the old forum, one can always wish, lol. Art of printing doesn't even load when I click on it anymore, just a blue circle.

A gift from a burglar perhaps?

Its a drink. lol.

And mr olsson i'm gonna buy your block when i get my printer. Using only one nozzle is a real drag when I get a jam and need to do 30 atomic pulls just to clean the damn thing. And very nice massive print you have there! It looks like a sweet!

The houses and chimneys were all printed just once and cast from resin later as i obviously didn't have time to print all 30 of them within my tight schedule. the lamposts and and everything else are all printed and painted. Original is in leaf green colorfabb which i bought too much of and only prints stuff well that is flat in my opinion. The white one is a resin cast. the lampost after repairs...

Lol, i wanted to take an earthquake photo, I just finished the lamposts but they were a right pain in the arse to stay level, i've learnt that milliput does not stick to plaster! at all. Here is the same photo from above, giving more of the landscape. Ill post the final tomorrow, today is my actual last day on this, after a months work. My bed is calling.

My model scandi town work in progress...

Stick to divisions of 0.4 unless you are using a different that stock nozzle. I print EVERYTHING with shell 1.2 and have no problems. I always had occasional shell issues with 0.8 shell, but i guess it depends on the model. If your going for 2mm go 1.6.

I find it best if i can't feel the glue, that way you will get your perfect bottom!

Can you post a wireframe view of the model in tris not quads? To verify its not a model issue? But if you know your modelling then it must be the slicer.

The material flow didnt work for me. Must be a very slightly blocked nozzle then. And too low temps.

Very cool, ill bookmark that page.

I still get that from time to time and never really figured out the cause.

Ive not seen this printeros, but still don't understand the concept of queue management or any sort of remote printing as from what I've seen in shops and places with many printers, you have to be right there to clean the head before the print and load the desired spool. I don't understand the desire to manage your queue remotely if you need to be there to start the queued file anyways. You just need a spread sheet or something. This is way to naive a hobby/profession, to do anything print-wise remotely. the room for failure is massive. And considering the variance in heat sensors temps, its impossible to gather any reliable profiles about anything. You would need to guarantee heat accuracy before even thinking about brand profiles.

Heres something to give you an idea of what im up to @Sander, cant show too much yet im afraid still finishing off and only one more day to go before i finally get some sleep, lol. Just one house out of 33...

Apart from monitoring or filming timelapse remotely and perhaps temp controls, there is no need to connect the printer to the cloud. If you want to release a product then release a highrez camera with basic um control, or just the camera, as bored hackers tend to spoil things. Any risk in a failed print is a nono. Especially if it going 50+ hours. You only really need to know if your print has failed to go back and start it again. I seriously dont understand all the people who want to be able to print remotely, its hard enough when you are next to the printer, and the chances of failure are extremely high so why bother? Just release a camera and worry about online stuff when the printers are more reliable during the start of the print.

full of crap, really? i thought it was just full of air and solvents. No particles ever come out and thats all i care about. I guess each to his own. But i have zero issues printing now, even under immense pressure, and can practically guarantee perfect prints every time. I was just making a point that if you need to attach something to clean your filament on the fly you must have bigger issues, you should really just make sure its clean first and save any hassles later on by risking a failed print. I stand by my air dust cans, i really dont know what 'crap' you are on about, there is just air in a can.

You could go hardcore with a hydrophobic spray, but im not sure how long it would last for or even work, but i love that stuff.

Well feel free, but apart from bearings on the spool, i cant imagine any other attachments other than a different feeder that would in any shape or form actually improve the flow of filament. Attaching anything to the filament itself is not a good idea, just incase. It sounds crazy, but what if a fly flies in there and jams itself inside or a bit of dust falls in thats just big enough to jam it or any other weird random possibility, why wouldyou even consider it? Im sure it works perfectly fine with a perfectly functioning printer, but if you have a slight issue, it will only make it worse. It may do its job, but totally unnecessary.

Fom much experimenting with different glue sticks, i looked for the ones that layed down the thinnest were the strongest and were also scratch proof when dry, so that i wouldnt have to keep replacing the glue after a print. Ive found that nothing beats pritt stick power glue. But i print on a heated bed so have no clue how it would work on a umo im afraid. I get glass smooth bottoms every time and dont get that wobbly effect that sometimes used to happen on the first layer.

This creative tools thing looks horrific to me, i wouldnt dream of attaching anything to the filament. That is just insane. It will most definitely cause underextrusion and more of that clicking sound if you ever get it. My advice to you is to buy an air duster spray can and simply spray it in the bowden tube before you insert the filament in it, then wipe clean the part of the filament that goes into the bowden tube, and simple air dust the rest. And its true, ANYTHING that you add to treat or slow the filament spool even if only slightly during print will always be worse even if ever so slightly than printing without it. Why buy a good printer if you dont want the best out of it?

just print hot onto the glue/glass on your first layer. done. The 'elephant shoe' is good in my opinion because it guarantees a good stick and is very easy to sand off even if you are sticking two halfs together. Id steer clear from tape, it maybe flat but its not perfectly flat. ......if you are talking about the funny weird wrinkles that appear on the first layer, they usually go by the second, but i see you are using a UMO so i cant say anything on the matter, as i only used one once with a very bad experience and a failed 42 hour print.

Nicework @travis-womack I really like the ball monster madness, and always wondered about how to sit stuff on the surface of an object like a sphere in 3DS MAX. Only thing I would suggest is to make the er and ma closer to the rest of the letters as typographically they are too far away, but great job on the printing and painting!

I'm sick of these gnomes now, no more cloning, I assembled and prepped 27 gnomes that evening, printed in about two days at 50mm/s 0.06. I just had to take a photo as they got sent off for painting and I wont see them like that again. I don't plan on ever printing any gnomes EVER again. Unless i do something stupid with them. I hope you prefer the photography and camera I'm using @Danilius.