cloakfiend

I run everything on 64bit only. win and mac. i run cura 15.02.01 for everything.

No problem glad to help.

Nice specs, but the 3 second wait is weird, i think you might just be unlucky with the UM2 interface or something as I dont get that.

Damn Kevin, you must be picky! lol. ;)and I thought I had no patience. Try loading a 2million poly model into Maya from Zbrush with a crap graphics card and then editing it! now thats what i call lag...... I know those SD cards are poor quality, but as long as they work without fail (as mine seems to) I really don't get the lag thing, as surely you are on about the speed the UM2 or whatever takes to scroll through the files, as apart from that, i cant imagine where else you are waiting? Perhaps waiting for cura to write the file to the sd card, yes true, but i've found that to vary even with the same file strangely enough? it may be cura responsible? Maybe I don't work with SD cards enough but my wacom cintique has a port and i just chuck them in there from my eos and drag drop whatever doesn't seem to make much difference what card i use the lag appears the same, the read write speed differ, yes but lag to me is waiting twiddling my fingers whilst something hangs momentarily or is just preoccupied in its duty you have just assigned it. Besides, waiting a second of lag for a 19hr print seems acceptable in my view, lol.\ Some things don't like large cards, maybe thats an issue, I remember my hacked DS didn't like cards over 8GB but here i really don't know i've not used any different cards and have whipped it out of my UM2 so many times the plastic has broken off it from various places but luckily it still works! so its ok in my books.

I use a UM2 and after I loaded it with tons of test gcodes over the last year, it did start placing them randomly as I was always used to having the latest one last, but at one point this stopped, hence me advising people not to slap too many files onto it, making 4GB more than enough space to play with. Maybe it doesn't like the larger GB gcodes, but I cant remember, either way if you don't have much on the card, its not an issue.

In my opinion you only need to swap out the PFTE if you can't do atomic pulls anymore. Thats the giveaway. If you can do atomic pulls then filament can still pass through the PFTE hence no need to swap it out.

Hey @lepaul i had the same issue as you, but its just that there is not enough memory given to the interface so keep less files and the latest one will ALWAYS go to the bottom, hence the one click to the left when going from the print menu and you should automatically have your desired file selected in the menu when you are about to print it, and all you need to do is click it!

Its should really say...... Its all in the PFTE and in proper atomic pulls, meaning a totally clean nozzle. It is possible to do a decent print with a dying or badly installed PFTE which i have been doing for the past month but you need to know what you are doing. Also you might just have a jammed PFTE which means if you over heat it and let it drop then do gentle atomic pulls it will print fine. The trouble with the PTFE thing is that when you do do harsh atomic pulls, then you may get hydraulic pressure which allows some filament to ooze between the PFTE and base causing yet more problems, and I think a lot of people get this but just don't notice, and just swap out their PFTE far to early thinking its dead.

If its a massive polycount file then it maybe locked up due to thinking and its better to just let it think than restart, but i cant actually think of one time when cura has frozen on me, and if it did, it did not cause a problem. I use WIN7, WIN8.1, and WIN10. Also mac OSX YOSEMITE all appear fairly stable to me, and believe me I push them hard, and have very little patience.

I believe the LEDs we chose (for colour reasons) were 20mA each and my mate just got a 2A phone charger just incase but overall 1.6Amps i think, here is his box he manually connected, with 15 available for dimming, but we just ended up hooking up some problematic ones there as there were so many and it was easier to access them there.

Thats weird i had hundreds of files on my sd card and didn't notice much lag, but it was more annoying scrolling through it looking for something once the file system stopped arranging them in date order, so i just deleted them all and now whenever i load something i just rotate the wheel once to the left just after i press print and it always goes to the latest file. I don't find the lag a problem, i just treat it as a dump card for printing with no other purpose at all, therefore speed and anything else is irrelevant to me as its never a factor. I now dont let myself put too many files on it as it gets confused with too many files anyway and i hate looking through the card for them when there are loads on it as the nozzle cools too much and i have to start all over again, due to a sensitive PFTE, so I need it fast.

I find youmagine very disorganised and cant find anything ive posted on that website so ive stopped uploading there completely. ..and yes i find it interesting, and may also give it a try, just to see, it cant. Hurt too much being foam. I just fear that it may come off too easily, i guess its down to testing. May make large plain areas more streak free? Only 100 odd downloads but the guy says he is already trying something new so may be worth a chat for some beta testing?

With the latest colorfabb filament I've been using, i'm finding using a brush on small detailed objects very effective as a dunk would simply destroy them.

OK, @danilius, these pics are for you and your kids, lol! everyone else sorry! i wont post anymore here and just put up the video when its finished. the lights had to go back to the rental place so the rest of these are just the leds illuminating everything.

it was my cousins wedding today and unfortunately due to the printer being tied up i couldn't reprint this failed small test print so i just sprayed it gold and gave it to him and his wife who still loved it along with a non sprayed larger test. acetoned as usual. printed VERY thin, and barely any post work.

Thanks a lot, i've really pushed the printer to try and create everything i've ever wanted and all that was in my head. Just wait till you see what i've done with it.... i hope you will love it. I always wanted to make a little cute town in the snow with lights (which my work mate hooked up for me after some testing with super bright leds as i have no knowledge of electrics at all)! now thanks to the UM2 I have! i just cant believe my boss let me do this (even though am very persuasive!) it was a lot of late nights but this 3d printing bug in me has gone well into overdrive. ill post another pic or two if you want but i don't want to flood this section with a barrage of my work.

no i haven't but i cant imagine it being as smooth due to the blobby nature of abs in acetone. at the moment i have perfected a technique which will almost always give almost perfect results, so i see no need to look for any other techniques or solutions for problems that just don't exist for me. the only downside as i have mentioned before is acetone on perfectly flat surfaces thin ones aren't so much of a problem unless they are flat or near flat.. need putty for that. in my opinion the more impurities in the acetone the worse the outcome. ive been using the same for a while, but on my recent job noticed difference in whiteness from how deep the model is dipped. and the deeper the better. the time in the acetone appeared to be unchanged. the whiteness is something to do with the reaction or exposure to air either during or directly afterwards. ill try figure it out as sometimes the models dont go white at all but smooth as normal, even using the same filament?

something like this is all you need, nothing wrong with a lo-fi cheap hack. and 50mm/s is my standard print speed for almost everything and comes out just fine.

@artiz you mentioned 'ABS because it needs to be light, highly detailed and waterproof whilst also using 90% infill... ' PLA is light, high quality, and waterproof if dense enough, so i still dont see why you have turned to ABS? Have you attempted in PLA and ABS. Id like to know the difference? does ABS survive better under salt water than PLA. Not that ill ever use it, but im curious, so the next time i flame someone for using it, ill know why they flame me back correcting me, lol.

Unless you need the temperature aspect of ABS, I really don't understand any other reasons to print with it? Good Brands of PLA look just as good (maybe not flat top surfaces but thats about it). There is no other reason to use it. Strength is the same if not better with PLA for me. So if you don't need to put it in direct sunlight all day or under a hot lamp, or some other high temperature situation, i wouldn't even bother with ABS at all. Also all regular Colorfabb PLA smooths wonderfully at high res better in acetone than ABS as well, so its the nail in the coffin for ABS as far as I'm concerned. I used to be the other way round and hated PLA at the start, but now regarding ABS, I wouldn't even touch the stuff.

I wouldnt worry about the shaking, you'll still get perfect prints as the shaking is consistent, seeing as i never use infill its never a real problem for me even if it hits stuff! as for printing off the roll' i do it all the time. If you have a perfectly clean nozzle its ok to print on the roll but then the problem starts when you stop and start still on the roll. Its the one issue you cant solve. I just made an extended holder to hold the coiled filament i measure off. Its almost impossible to get tangles in measured off the roll filament unless you put it on tangled. if you make it look like a perfect spring, it will always print perfectly and with less resistance than on a roll. If you print on a roll try to always keep it tight after, but again thats no guarantee it will not get tangled. The angle of the feeder to the filament holder is greatly responsible for tangles due to the bad angle when it hits the far end, as its pulling, it often forces filament on the roll to slide under the filament beneath it. Id print a new holder, but i rarely do long prints anymore, and prefer printing off the roll anyday, as it guarantees no tangles.

Heres my gazebo again with some proper lighting. Trees and snow are not 3d printed, btw.

Here is an ULTRA close up of an acetone surface in extreme light to show how it looks after the dips.

I use 15.02.01 and find it perfect. I also print everything 1.2 shell (on all sides) as i used to have issues with using 0.8. you need to find your sweet spots with the filaments you use and the brand matters depending on what you want to get out of it.

100 microns is not high res enough. unless it goes higher its no good to me for my purposes.