cloakfiend

Lol, fair enough, might do one for the hell of it though. For a minute I thought I was the only one doing this, glad to know I'm, not. I don't have any of that Elmers glue but might order some if I get a UM2 myself. I'll probably do a little vid, to let other curious people know... like those who don't like reading so much, lol.

Only for a few more days :( so I'm going to print some random things to finish up some loose spools. Then I'm going freelance.

A test mess around to see if it would hold together, and it did! still gotta sort out the bottom loop though, lazy modelling!

Any plastic or multi purpose primer is fine, but remember its just for grip so don't go too heavy as some spray cans push out too much paint. Just as long as its covered you'll be fine, but again, doing a few layers extra can conceal the layers to your advantage, just depends on how much detail you want to keep.

I've never used XTC but ill assume it will lose a bit of detail as you are adding an extra layer regardless of what it is. In my opinion if you print high res (60 microns+), then the sculpt nouveau paint is thick enough to conceal most of the lines. I just dip my models in acetone for a set amount of time depending on the colour. Then a light spray of undercoat is needed as the sculpt nouveau paints don't grip that well but two layers of SN paint is plenty. patina if you want, with SN paints you need to do it when still wet. Done.

@ieol2015 Challenge accepted (even though its not much of a challenge considering I do this everyday!) I print at 60 microns so ill do it as I do it. Using my glue as well, which i think is a bit stronger than the one it ships with. I have already posted about it but I'll just assume you didn't bother trying it. And as for making videos of everything, well isn't it easier to just write a few words in a forum designed specially for that purpose where you can try out all the methods talked about and come to your own conclusions? Quote "So please show me a video where you print something , remove it and print again on the same place and again and again as you write." well....I don't even remember the last time I fully realigned my printer.....and if it really needs realignment, then you just do it on the fly! ....and don't print something on exactly the same spot every time, at least shuffle it round the tray, that is just common sense! And I don't feel I need to start trying to use kapton tape which takes longer in general than what I am doing? I cant see ANY benefit for PLA. If i am really paranoid i can always add another thin layer of glue, but seeing as it becomes too strong, its rarely needed unless you print 20 things on exactly the same spot that is. besides, I push acetone not glue.

As long as its flat and smooth youre good to go in my opinion. But i really dont think its that hard. You just need to find the right glue, its trial and error, more than learning a technique in my opinion, unless you cant apply glue smoothly that is. Once you've found the right glue you'll never look back. I printed almost 35 prints on one plate of glass without re-applying any glue. there is no reason at all to use kapton tape to print PLA on a UM2 in my honest opinion. None.

@ieol2015...... you must be using the wrong type of glue stick or something as i disagree with all of your comments when it comes to glue sticks??? With PLA I use a certain brand of glue stick and it lasts many multiple prints, I.e. around 10 to 20 before it needs to be added or re-applied, and I NEVER re-align my print base and always get perfect bottoms on the prints. Just because you take the glass plate off, doesn't mean you need to realign everything! thats madness. I take of the plate everytime but never re-align! I've only used that Klapton tape once, but feel that the only people who are using it are simply using it as they have not mastered printing with glue stick. or lack a heated bed and are forced into using it for something, as it most definitely not quicker to apply and re-apply than glue, and wont give any better results than well applied glue either and the bottom is as flat as the glass plate with NO BUMPS! and the gluestick is cheap as dirt and lasts almost all year. There are bumpy glue sticks and there are smooth glue sticks. Obviously use the smooth one. Problem solved. No need for tape ever, unless you are going down the ABS route that is, but i don't so with PLA you just dont need it.

The one thing i really like about sculpt nouveau paints is that they are very easy to apply and the patinas rock, tiffany green is great and the bottle goes a long way. I still will try the metal coating thing out, it just looks too interesting to not investigate and was one of my childhood curiosities!

the falling snow was done in post using after effects and the particular plugin, and the actual snow was a mixture of PVA glue, sodium bicarbonate and white glitter!!! you should have a go this christmas!!! but be careful with glitter it goes everywhere!!!!

I've only had success with abs juice for ABS. PLA for me needs just the glue stick. the one it comes shipped with is fine, although alternatives last longer on the glass.

The snow was after effects particular, and in real it was sodium bicarbonate with pva glue and white glitter. My internet is dying on me so im having trouble posting, but ill post a little making of when im back at work.

Its on air in Denmark already from Monday on their TV3. I was fairly happy with the result i can always do better (but time doesnt always allow me to), and yes I did the stop motion as well, which was far trickier that planned, just due to the placement on a few scenes, and working out the frames needed. The stop motion was a curve ball that wasn't even planned which is why i had so much issues with it and a miracle I printing it at all. The photo stills look much nicer from a purely visual point of view, as the lights are more visible in darker environments, but we needed more light to light the centre so the house lights don't show as much as i would have liked but considering the little time i had to make it all, and only on one printer, i think i did fairly well. And all the gnomes have been acetoned too btw, lol. Next....well. I need to buy a printer as i will no longer have access to my work one so it would be nice to know if a Um3 is coming in the next few to hold off buying a UM2 which I plan to get in the next week or so, lol. Also electroplating is up next, have been meaning to do that but have had no time.

Here is a link to the animation I worked on last month...all the models were 3D printed or cast from 3D prints I made on the Ultimaker 2 in our office. The landscape is not 3D printed.

Thats some very good advice.

lol I know, just means you are making life hard for yourself trying to print these kind of models, you should design something more appropriate for the printer in the future, in the meantime, just do it lightly with a flame, or print one it in colofabb PLA and dip it into acetone for about 45 seconds depending on what colour you use. I do the acetone method and have been doing it for a year now with almost zero problems. Just don't do anything flat. and it only works with colorfabb PLA as far as i can tell.

its all the bridging, these kind of objects are better suited for resin printers like the form1. also all the retractions that are an issue. some people just use a blow torch to lightly melt away the strands. I tend to print more solid stuff though so cant offer too much advice on this.

I just printed a quick model face of a friend it and it came out real nice, even layer height, but as it was at 50mm/s, i got the usual moire pattern (its kinda hard to miss on a fresh black colorfabb piece, this is what i am curious about removing, but i though it was more related to actual print speed than export settings? will be very curious to know. i want to acetone it real bad but at the same time i kind of don't as it looks so smooth! Here is the obj file. @KevinMakes, i printed it upside down like in the photo. sunken in a bit for grip as i dont print with infill or support material. https://www.dropbox.com/s/7izhtbap59l3n9f/Merged_euhe-exported.obj?dl=0 I did a quick read up about this angle of deviation thing, and from what i've read seems to be some kind of subvidided polygon/tri count increase of some sort which may not help me as i am already working with 200,000 polys already. I could be wrong though i did only spend 2 mins reading up on it, it may align them more favourably, but the moire is the topic in question for me. Here is a photo of the back, which shows the result of low poly count, very visible, but its the back so I don't care, and it looks interesting. angle of deviation may make this better but im not sure about the moire patterning all over it. eitherway i am willing to give it a go just to see the difference. On another note, i don't seem to get the moire effect as badly when printing in red, so will try red next.

Looks very interesting. Ill send you my next print to test if you dont mind it appears to reduce the moire effect which is far harder to remove than just lines.

use 3d software, its usually called slice (3dsmax) or cut or multicut tool (maya), or something. if you want to improve the quality of your models, you're gonna have to learn 3d software im afraid, theres no avoiding it, unless you have nice friends who will immediately do things for you so you can progress. modern day 3d printing requires knowledge of craftwork, 3d design, 2d design, support material understanding, material thermodynamic properties (ABS or PLA and warping), 3d printer variables, artistry, sanding, gluing, painting (if you want), finishing, buffing (if you want) and many more little bits of knowledge. You need all these skills unless someone else deals with them for you. You can get lucky but your luck will run out eventually if you don't really understand why certain things are happening that you don want to happen. all 3d software has this basic tool. But that is the easy part. You then need to cap it after the slice unless it does it automatically (which can be very dangerous)! and be VERY careful of intersecting geometry!!!! I suggest reading as must as you can, but also experience, as not everything you read it true! you need to do your own research to bunk false comments. Don't believe everything you read. do it your way if it works untill it stops working.

printing all at once is not recemmended, and small scale will need a lot of practice and experience, but generally tiny detailed stuff is much better if you just print in parts. Tiny geometric stuff is better suited to the resin printers. Everything else is fine with the UM2 and far cheaper, like over 100 times cheaper.

5mm (whats 5mm?) 0.4 wall is far too thin for me even though you can do it, but with more practice, and 7% infil is pointless, dont go below 18%. Speed is ok and the slowest i will go to get a good quality print as long as its not tiny, in which case ill print more so that the nozzle doenst hang about on one for too long. those gaps mean underextrusion normally, not sure what your layer height is though.

Just get some pliers and cut it off near the the feeder so you get a flat end near the bowden tube, and push up the new filament up against the end of the old one. don't worry if you miss a few retractions it wont matter at all I totally messed up loads and it got stuck a few times during the entering the bowden tube stage, its not that difficult but takes a bit of practice. I had constant retractions and it still worked first time. The pressure of the filament from before gives you a 30 sec odd window if you mess up so don't panic. I would never pause the print. its asking for trouble. Irrespective whether it works or not. The chances of jam straight after are much higher if you are running a delicate setup.

Heres one for the garden, lol.

I also don't like all colours and the green is no good in my opinion for organic stuff, but ok for flat stuff. Generally i found printing anything at 30mm/s came out great with colorfabb. Some colours are too melty so stay away from them, but the ones that aren't work great. You appear to print very flat stuff with most detail within the panels, so i would have thought colorfabb would have been fine. I also stopped liking the black recently too. as it doesn't acetone as good as some others, or takes far too long. Well i will try some inofill3d but would not normally dream of printing anything above 0.06 as the lines become very visible when painted (thinly) or with spraypaint. You should be able to get away with more viscous paints without any postwork mind you.