cloakfiend

like this... i have changed my mind so many times about this, but still believe that this is the ultimate way to print things that use 11m of filament and less. gets more complicated after that. i though the feeder was the problem, but its fine its the filament roll weight and tangle chances that are the real issues.

dont worry mate, my 0.2mm layer pieces look just as bad as yours, and if you want to close the top layer, then its easy if its flat, you can just place a flat bit of geometry on top of your object making sure it doesnt intersect too much (or it will treat it as an intersect boolean) but just enough for the extra layer. Nothing i tried helped. i too use colorfabb, maybe a different filament could help, ......but on the subject of improving print quality, i was interested in removing the patterning from the surface completely. is it possible? its there even present at slower speeds i see as i was going through my models. and lets face it printing at 10mm/s is not going to be an option.

learning how to galvanize, lol the ultimaker robot was printed with um silver, the gnome colorfabb red. the gnome was acetoned before galvanization, the robot was not. what a difference. mind you the coating is only as good as the model.... they're my first two tests..they have a few issues lol. No sanding or polishing after galvanizing them. this is how they came out.

This is just a case of blocked nozzle. Doing atomic pulls takes a bit of practice till you know what to look for. Till then you just assume because you did it a few times its all good, but its not, thats why it fails after a few hours. Its a slow jam. Took me over 30 pulls one time to figure this out. Also printing off the roll helps with this as it takes away a bit of tension as well. Getting a clean pull can be luck which is why its worth doing a few extra if you are having problems.

thanks for the suggestion sander, but i have so much so get on with at the moment i wouldn't contribute much. my life has drastically changed and i need to make a lot of decisions so don't have as much time as before to argue with people on the forum, lol here are my last two prints from work I picked up today, they were still on the glass a week after I left, lol. and the arty one in red colorfabb with infill. Ill aceone them soon........

Lol, I know how you feel!

Yeah thats ABS, i use PLA. Its a different ball game. My method keeps way more detail, and if you want a gloss coat then you can always spray it. Im not too concerned about the gloss finish as we all know this method with ABS for a while, but mine only works with colorfabb PLA at the moment, it used to work with UM brand but no longer since they changed recipes for their PLA. ANY sort of treatment degrades the print due to actually melting it, its just a matter of how much detail you are willing to sacrifice in the name of removing those lines. I have found no comparison to my method which may also work to some extend with vapour but it would take a hell of a lot longer than one hour, thats for sure. Ill try it one day but i don't have a printer anymore, so until i get one, ill leave you with these images. Doing it my way will still leave faint lines in problem areas, but nothing that a light touch of sanding and a bit of paint wont cover easily. These ABS treated prints look just way too melted for my purposes and leaves no fine points and tiny detailed areas. That is that main benefit with PLA and acetone. As it is not as effective as on ABS, it leave less opportunity to damage you print as much as ABS. I've not seen any sharp edges on these ABS vapour treated prints whereas i keep all my sharp edges if i choose to and just smooth where i need. I must stress that you need to have a clean printer, and also make sure yourmain screw is very clean as the main problems are in the print when there is dirt in the screw so just try not to get PLA or ABS dust in there. Here are my latest lot. one more to go and thats it! to be acetoned...tonight, and leaf green colourfabb, not as bad as i thought! and done ones. just thin undercoat paint. No sanding on any of these lot by the way, just acetone, so they aren't perfect! but still good in my opinion. Ill try to arrange a talk with FabLab London soon, so ill keep you posted on that.

Nice job on the paint too!

Heres the arty one sprayed. Very happy with the acetoning outcome on the face as its perfect, even though i did go a bit heavy with the paint. No sanding at all. Could be better with a bit of work but i didn't bother considering it had no infill and issues, i'm redoing one for myself with infill now, but for a casual present, i think it looks great and the gold came out real nice too. Its Montana gold gold if you're curious. Colorfabb black 0.06 30mm.s 202C + acetone.

I print .2 at 50mm/s at 230 no problems, not 240. But it depends on the brand. I can't get away with printing under 200 for a lot of suff even at 0.06 and at 30mm/s maybe my sensor is overcompensation or what but that clicking happens and its a no. 0.1 and .2 are just too low res for me, but a chart of high res temps would be interesting..... like 0.04 @ 20, 30,40,50mm/s 0.06 @ 20,30,40,50mm/a .0.8...... I may do one, but from what i've seen i'm running a lot hotter than most folk on the same layer heights so i'm often told i'm printing too hot.

I still get the moire in red, lol. Its just more visible in black because of the reflections, satin effect. Ill post results when finished.

I don't own my UM2 and am not going to be working at the same place any longer. I will have to personally buy one if I want to use it now...so no UM2 for me...mind you im a bit addicted to it so may well end up just buying one pretty soon, like today, lol.

Another face, 2 more to go, will do the usual acetone on them and post the pics later.

sprayed face, no sanding at all on any of these latest lot, trying a new technique out. and a before and after acetone, ill spray it tomorrow.

my latest acetone face. many more to follow before i say goodbye to the ultimaker 2 for good. its been swell.

My first arty piece! I printed it hollow so had to fill it full of tissues as it was printing to give support to the areas it wanted to print in thin air! worked ok most of the time, next time ill just give it infill though lol.

Thanks, ill try lower the temps more, just afraid of that clicking sound. im doing 205 at 30mms with color fabb i didnt notice any difference from 210 to 205 so ill see if 200 or 195,then 190. Its a memento scan and quick retouch. I cant seem to get good results from memento without having to spend at least a few hours cleaning up the image, especially the hair. This is it before retouching in case you were wandering. I think the shell infill is causing the moire issues, as lowering the temps did nothing, and the lines seem to follow from the infill lines.... unsolvable then. Will try with different PLA, as i never got it this much before.

Here is a face i scanned and retouched, printed at 30mm/s still got that annoying moire style surface, not sure what to do about that? how can i remove it? can I print something without getting it?... apart from acetone lol.

Yep theres a lot to read, but you can just skim read until you see something useful. and its better too much information than too little. And with regards to ABS staying on the plate (as the thread name says) well if you have issues with stuff sticking to the plate then it makes sense to skim read all the threads regarding stuff sticking to the plate incase there is some useful information there. That is what forums are for, otherwise there would be like ten times the amount of threads because everyone would be starting new threads for simply wanting to mention something new. My backs are perfect like yours (apart from not having the join lines from the tape) but with the occasional matte area which can be polished away. Don't be so militant about whats said in forums, they are casual and relaxed, and there is no single answer to most questions, you should know that by now.

Lol, cheers!

When I did print in ABS I used a raft, but still got warping so gave up with ABS, I need more practice, or some elmers glue or that dimafix! lol. I don't need ABS for what I print so I guess ill worry about that when I need to.

@paulmag, I dont bother with rafts or brim or infill anymore. It only took a touch of trouble to take it off because i was rushing. I have a scraper as well, There are many methods of taking the stuff off, I have no trouble with that at all. Using a raft makes life very easy, but i like the flat bottom and feel it holds better. I have no issues with the bottom being slightly ugly what so ever, considering it is perfectly flat all you have to do is buff it on some high grit sandpaper and job done. Takes like 1 min or less its a non issue.

OK here goes. 19 mins for begginers.