cloakfiend

Its a model issue as its scales. Its the only possible reason. It will become clear if you show me the wireframe view in a 3d app. One that shows all polys that is, not some short hand view. Ive seen some seriously bad stuff, and its usually blender and inexperienced modelling thats the reason. You MUST model clean shells to get perfect prints, or else weird things happen. I wrote this a while back but could not be bothered to type it all again as i was timed out after a lengthy explaination. Avoid all intersections, and if you are going to have them, then zoom right in and make them as minimal as you can and youll be fine, booleaning also doesnt always create a union object and simply hides the intersecting faces inside. Check your model. Also dont use the new cura, use 15.04 or 15.02.01.

Yeah Sweden, Denmark and Norway mainly.....don't worry ill post it up here too as well as all the making ofs which I have TONS of pics and timelapse videos.

I just had a chat with a nice fellow at fablablondon and will do a talk/demonstration about acetone smoothing PLA for those of you who are interested and living in the UK near london. Will be next month after my project most likely. Ill be talking about what filaments are the best how they differ, how long each filament needs and also talk about the different forms of clean up before and after the dips. Ill keep you posted.

I cant say too much yet but if you live in a scandi country you will hopefully see it in a month or so....

My new favourite filament to acetone smooth is Colorfabb Traffic Red. Unbelievable quality even at 50mm/s. No post work and such an amazing finish!!!! high rez for you @danilius Id recommend clean acetone, if it goes too white give it a few minutes and brush it off a bit with a toothbrush.

lol, I thought the same thing. Somewhat.

Looks nicely printed, thats a lot of nozzles, I have been using the same one that it shipped with for the last year, lol. and It doesn't do a good job at printing 0.2mm layers for me. I guess when i buy my own one ill have to experiment with the different sizes and their benefits of speed vs quality vs detail.

If you let me know earlier i would have asked you for sure! But im now just rushing through jobs only printing high rez fronts and printing the backs in low rez as i wont see much of them anyways. If in the next week ill need help ill be in touch for sure! Thanks, and as ive already mentioned regarding the topic of the thread i highly recommend pritt stick power glue on the glass/plate bed (not regular pritt stick!). It lasts ages and doenst tear and leaves a smooth bottom and is not too bad to remove the objects.

don't worry I am a fan of high rez photography you'll get it, lol. my 60d is at home and all this is at work with the printer. my phone just doesn't like taking photos close up or any kind of macro photos. Also PLA doesnt take kindly to photography and generally looks poor either way, no matter what the quality. Itll look better after acetoning. Here is a bigger gnome, sorry for the poor quality phone photo (at least theres some dof in the back! lol) ;)still got some lines and such as i printed it 50mm/s (rather than 30 which would look near perfect) and did no post work at all (i did sand the hat a bit!) other than the acetone dip. i recommend a brisk sand over the trouble areas before hand. Also if i left it in for a bit longer it would also be a bit better. but ill go into that on my acetone thread rather than jabber about it here.

Im lucky the print came out fine so the oil helped, or else i will just get this jolt later on down the line, either way im going to have to tighten it. here is the difference. this never used to stick out like this before, but the oiling has it at least staying in the same place. i just dont have the time to remove any motors at the moment, its just gonna get lots of oil and prayers instead.

I find regular superglue also just fine and it survives acetoning too just make sure its not old or else it may not cure properly as its shelf life is not always that great.

Im mid print now, so ill put a few drops of sewing oil on and hope it works, i just need it to be ok for a few more days! im praying..... just had a look and noticed one of the pulleys with the teeth on it (if that is a pulley), is shaking a few millimetres as its moving? none of the others are moving, and its in the direction of the slip. so ill need to tighten somthing after over a years worth of printing non stop i guess. i hope it can last a few more days..... its probably as im printing alot on one bed, and its moving tons all over and quite sharply.

this is the third time this has happened to me in 2 months and was wandering what i could possibly do about it. I think for some reason the teeth have skipped and some layers in it has jumped up too much and continued printing there, i did start a thread about it before as it happended to me with my alien, but nothing came up in the search about offset layers. Can i do anything about this or is it just bad luck again? im printing at 50mm/s so not too fast, but obviously the layer will no longer match the back half?

nevermind....i've managed to push my deadline by two days. yay!

Hi, im currently nearing my deadline for a project im working on and desperately need help in printing a thing or two at 0.06 in plain PLA colorfab filament (non speciality or non metallic) as im going to acetone it after. Ive got gcode files read to go or objs if you prefer. the prints should use about 10m of filament and last around 23-26hrs to print. If anyone can help id be happy to pay and if you know anyone else to print anothe one or two trays worth id also be grateful as it will mean i will be able to get all the figures in the video. Please pm me or let me know here as soon as you can if you are willing to help. Im in the uk and will pick up the prints anywhere in london. The latest they can be ready is monday at some point preferably mid day some time. To give me time to glue them and clean them up a bit. Thanks...please please someone help me! Ill post a pic of what a tray looks like done. Quality must be perfect though. Im printing 50mm/s 0.06 at 212-213 degrees to get this quality. ill keep checking my pms regularly.

No disrespect its just that i was forced into using one and have no time to finish my job and the folks who set it up(i dont want to say who ) seem like amateurs and i am now just panicing about not getting my job finished, due to me predicting it wont print correctly. I know the printer itself is great, but when you are in a hurry, going from wood and tape to plastic and glass, and expecting the same quality just worries me. If i had time to experiment im sure id say differentlyand if im honest again, id say the nozzle seems to works better on the umo than the um2 seems more robust and i like the way the temp seems to be more steady and not always want to cool downlike the um2 does which causes most of the jams for me. Maybe i just need to buy a new nozzle, but with no time , i just cant. Im stressing and panicing, i dont mean to diss anyones umo, they seemsolid but overcomplicated having used a um2.

I just used the tape for the first time, and if im honest, i feel sorry for anyone using it. Its like living in the stone age, and the umo, well.... the um2 is like a dream compared to that convoluted madness of a machine with so many pointless settings and random controls in the control panel even the guy showing me how to use it forgot where simple things like change filament was or how to stop it extruding filament, lol. Printing on that tape SUCKS compared to heated glass btw, as its not my printer i didn't do the PVA, but will maybe ask someone to print a thing or two for me online as i'm so far behind on my project. If you have a umo the UM2 kicks its ass hands down start saving to upgrade. heated bed is a fricking dream compared to the umo which seems to simply stop printing when there is not enough filament from the layer before underneath it (the um2 prints great in thin air saving a failed print). Total nightmare if your trying to print tons at once, i can only imagine a high failure rate on multiple object prints.....and im not even gonna go into the bed leveling nightmare....lol. Never what to use that machine again.

Yep its all printed, ill post close ups when i'm working on them next i don't have them at the moment still doing a bit of soldering. its printed in halves over the wire and then superglued. then scraped and filled and sanded. and then sprayed with gloss white. The top is also two separate parts. Heres the plate on the printer.... the tops bits... and the poles and tops first attempt.....forgot to take photos of the seconds. the first were a bit to short and narrow for me, but you get the drift. and a close up...for you @shurik and in action (before getting sprayed...

Maybe i should! Thanks for the advice, im going to be using an ultimaker original for the first time and and worried the lack of heat bed may not hold my objects down, but also worry that the tape wont render a perfect flat bottom that needs to join onto another perfectly flat bottom. I guess ill find out, i just cant imagine tape being as smooth as glass. But ill find out soon enough...

Its a good read, but again i dont agree with all of it. And having to change my designs for ones that will print better is not always an option, and the whole cant print sharp corners seem like total BS as i have been printing nothing but sharp cornered objects lately with zero issues, so i take all that with a grain of salt. The theory behind it is sound however. I would just experiment for yourself to see what you particularly have trouble printing and go from there. Don't concern yourself too much over having to model everything printer friendly, its not always or very likely necessary. different resolutions and filament make things more possible than others as well as many other factors. I only really have issues with sharp inclines, gaps, large circular holes and auto support for small objects. My 'sharp' corners.

A mini lamp post with LED.

The temps are not so much of an issue in my opinion as long as you dont leave it too long at 260 with pla, but in my experience you dont need to go all the way to peak temps to clean the nozzle as the pla will stick to the ABS and pull it out with it, but im not 100% on that as ive not used ABS for a long time. 220-230 works totally fine with PLA. The only danger for me when the temps gets too hot is hydraulic pressure which lets filament slip between the PTFE coupler easier at high temps if you push the filament in too fast or hard which can be easy to do when you forget about it. then your nozzle becomes jammed again.

I still think that you need to get the shape of the inside of the nozzle to get a proper clean, the method shown above does not show a good atomic pull in my opinion, and will leave people thinking that they've cleaned their printer when really they haven't. you cant analyse the dirt buildup in the nozzle following the guide above.

That most likely what has to be done as i cant see the UM making flat layers any quicker than 30/35mm/s as my slowly printed objects are always OK, even if printed a bit quicker. Strange. Either way i dont have time to experiment with this now, so ill just have to remember this! The bridge supports came out perfect, and the bottom shows that the layers join.