cloakfiend

Just for you! i pulled them off my print section but if you just go through my acetone thread i have many more there. I'm sure if you search in the prints section for my name it will bring up my posts. just to prove its not a cast and just painted. warm red colorfabb as usual. I use traffic red now as it acetones a little better. Ill do a tutorial how to get this effect as is is very easy but i have not seen any tuts around, only people talking and being vague about how its done, so ill show you how i do it.... stay tuned, but ill do it in another thread.

Regular fairy washing up liquid did it for me (the green one), but i assume they are all the same.....get it wet apply it and wash it off in warm water. then just use a sponge and wipe it off. Zero effort for the lazy

you can use washing up liquid to remove the acetone slurry very easily, as it softens the ABS very nicely so you dont even need to scrape. just cover it in washing up liquid and come back in a few minutes, and it will just wipe right off the glass.

I use 30-50 and what i think are correct temps, even at 0.06 and still have lines when i spray paint! I guess you cant really see them until you do your first light undercoat. I find that always brings the lines out. Even though Id be curious to try some of this innofil3d. when i get my printer ill give it a go. In the meantime colorfabb will have to do until I run out. good job.

That looks amazing for 100-160. I just cant get away with that for organic stuff, wish i could, do you treat it afterwards or are the lines visible but just not on the photo as it looks perfect on the photos?

Thanks, Whats the layer height?

I have made larger stuff and made silicon molds and cast resin casts, and painted metal paint on them which was very effective. it also means you dont need to sand as much or be that acurate with clean up as the paint is much thicker and covers the lines easily, much like the xtc stuff i guess. I use metal powder in varnish and after some experimentation found that it works very well, but you need to try to avoid drips the most due to the viscosity. I never got round to getting the electroplating machine as the price was higher than advertised and felt that maybe i could just devise something myself, diy style. Its very easy to cast something in a resin metal powder mix, and a few ways of doing it to save on metal powder or else you end up using alot, but it add weight which makes the object feel better. if you coat the inside of the mold with metal powder first and only pour in resin second then you only use a bit. But silicon and resin are way more expensive than just painting your models in the metal varnish mix. Ive posted photos in the prints section, feel free to have a look and ask me anything if you want. If you paint with metal, patinas will also be available to add effect.

I might get some just to try, cant hurt. Ill see if i can pick some up cheap from somewhere. Ill do an in depth review if i do.

Nice prints, whats your layer height speed temp and nozzle size out of curiosity? Your smooth layer heights make it look very clean. I think i have dirt in my main screw now after a few failed prints. All the dust went into the centre. looks like you keep your printer in good condition! You gotta paint your prints! Toys should be in colour! Some ultra close ups would be nice

after a 45 second dip. shallow dip. ...and sprayed. no cleanup. should have really sanded the nose a bit. ill try over a minute for the next one. maybe 1.5 minutes. black colorfabb is quite resilient towards acetone. and prone to cracking over time( especially if there are any small splits before hand.

Curious about that angle of deviation thing and does it export the model differently than cura will import the obj?

I have no idea what program that is, but i just import objs into cura now to save time in maya or 3dsmax if i have problem areas, ill just print them seperately. and on another note, to be honest im not finding black colorfabb to be that great for smoothing. I just came back from a night out and sprayed my acetoned model, but see two large print lines, rest is fine, but im pretty sure if i printed it in red it would look better. But it does look nice with the satin look.

Nice prints. I guess abs has its uses after all! I found mine to be actually weaker than pla on my printer but i guess i only tried one brand.

My maya has simply given up on me and my stupid high polycounts, so i decimated it from 1.4 million polys to around 600,000 and angle, well im not sure what you mean but i sunk it down in cura to avoid a lot of weirdness from the initial scan that i couldnt clean up and zbrush doesn't like working with polys with no thickness, or i just dont know how to use it more like, lol. all my faces are tests for me to improve my sculpting speed and learning how to draw newer features. Im just beginning to do hair now finally. here is the angle it printed at on the printer if thats what you mean....? 30 degrees-ish? or less.

OK a new face, and i gave the main elevating screw a bit of a wipe down and new lube as well as I was worried maybe dirt was in the thread there causing layers not to be as good as they should and this print looks real nice, i will dunk this one rather than brush it on and see how it goes. its printed with 20% infill this time. just to see if it helps and the eyes region looks perfect this time. I think it has trouble with no support sometimes. Oh well, still experimenting.... acetoning when i get home.......

Lol, this is all hypothetical. Its simply way too soon to even start thinking about this seriously in my opinion, sure it might work, but might is not good enough. I need to be there to play with the temps and pull away skirt lines and such at the start of a print. Eliminate any errors that occur at the start of a print and only then its worth thinking about. Not to mention the disappointment in setting it all up and seeing it simply fail straight away.

Lol, thanks @danilius well, heres one more for the kids then, lol! Presents are just polystyrene blocks cut into squares as 3d printing that would simply be a waste of time. the sleigh is also 3d printed. went a little heavy on the paint but it looks ok in the vid. [/media-thumb] and its cloak-fiend, lol. now more of a 3d printing fiend, lol.

I think someone made a joke video about this! with a punching hand that smashes the object from the plate, but then you may need to recalibrate the bed

But with so much chance of failure I really would not recommend it, I'm actually quite interested in the failure rate of remote printing as even with a nicely prepped UM2 i am almost never going to get a print to work without me being there, and as for queuing the next one, well thats what baffles me as if you have already printed the one, then whats the point in preparing another to remotely upload one when you cant physically remove the other one from the plate. 3D printing is not as reliable a photocopying therefore i'm just going to assume all the people remotely printing are simply tweaking and preparing things for the future (which is great) when printers are more reliable as now its a waste of time in terms of reliability for the average user as i think they will get home to a bunch of clown hair as i put it.

I have all shell setting at 1.2 you could try that i suppose, i dont ever do 0.8 for anything anymore.

just tried this brushon methd for a large print and whilst some part will look ok the steeper parts where the acetone simple rolls off do not get enough soaking, so dont even waste you time unless your print is perfect, in which case it should work. pics coming... first pic after acetone brush on twice with half an hour between applications. Maybe if i did it more it might do more, but then again i may as well just dip it as its more consistent and takes less time. and only need to be done once. and the back untreated spray painted after acetone.... still wet so it will probably look worse when its dry. but i would dip the next one as i don't like this method at all on large stuff as the acetone pools in unwanted areas for too long.. dry. not that great .....the brush on method sucks.

Lol, I used to do the whole checkin up routine, but it got a bit silly like in the mp3 dial-up days when i used to watch them for 20mins downloading one by one on napster. Now i only watch the first 1 or 2 layers go down listening out for the clicking sound. If i don't get it then goodnight and see you in the morning. I have only ever come back to 1 print that had failed and it was my fault on the modelling side due to no internal supporting structure which collapsed due to the abnormal shapes because i love to print things with no infill it was too thin at the base. I just reprinted the top and glued it on. it was a fountain but its all good now. So it doesn't really count as a failed print in my book because I used it. Thats why a UM camera would be nice and would most likely set a trend amongst all other 3D printers as watching stuff print and automatically taking timelapse would be a massive improvement in my opinion for those who cant be bothered buying yet more stuff like gopros with different cases and printing addons. Small cams are cheap and this should all be very easily done in the right hands, possibly writing to either the cloud on the fly or onto another SD card in the machine or even the same one if theres room. (would need to ship with a bigger card than 4GB). Make the cloud and option but locally storing the files would be just as good if not better. Just in case, i want the files locally to whip the card out slap it in my comp and start editing.

I was going for a 9 hr print but ended up scaling it too much and ended up with about 11 hrs. I don't like doing stupid long prints anymore as i am impatient, and 9hrs is my magic number i aim for so, if i kick it off when i get to work its ready by the end of the day! or if i need to tweak something then i just drive back to work and pick it up at the end of the day, this one i started when i left and it was ready by the morning. That is also the beauty of no infill or support material. MUCH MUCH quicker prints, with minimal quality reduction which will occur if the walls are too thin (0.8 is too thin for the flater parts) hence doing 1.2 mm minimum as it allows for the internal overhangs to be poor, but seeing as you wont see them it makes little difference. I find if cura says its going to be 13 hrs, it will really be 11. and 26 hrs really is 23, so ive learn that its always ready before the actual time it says, which is nice. Ill acetone it tonight!

My PFTE is visibly melting around the edges or deformed now, so i know i'm running on borrowed time. I never installed this one properly from the beggining though and seeing as this is not my printer i don't really care, but if i get mine, i really would like to make sure i install it right as it lasted a lot less than my first PFTE that shipped with the printer. Ill keep printing till I cant print no more.

A face test to see how big i can print without any infill. I think if i went any bigger the gaps around the eyes would become too degraded so this is my limit. 10cmx14cm might go a bit higher, but this only took 5.5m of filament which was the whole point, as i find many people print with infill when its simply not necessary. Usual 1.2mm thickness all round 50mm/s @ 213 and 0.06 and black colorfabb filament for obvious reasons. Im finding these settings almost perfect for anything i want to print.