KevinMakes

Again.. To be fair I would still say if you want immmense control over the toolpath (temperature, fanspeed, etc) by layer, adding custom scripts, and advanced retraction control... its pretty fantastic and I will continue to use it and I will continue to suggest it for people who do not use any of the fore mentioned features

I knew I would end up listing the reasons it sucks... here are a few 1.) teh organic surface toolpathing suck because sometimes it will skip a line and its random and weird I can rotate (about the z) and the skip will disappear so its not a matter of the the model or orientation its just bad programming So if you dont inspect the tool path thoroughly like ...i mean very very thoroughly you can waste a lot of time because it will simply skip a line and try to print in empty space rather than on top of the layer it was supposed to print. 2.) teh manual machine controls or (print via usb) leaves a lot to be expected and a little to be actually had, you do not have accurate dual extrusion control (doesn't let you heat up one head individually) Its also fairly buggy when I was using it I had to hard restart my printer several times. 3 Teh single outline (corkscrew) mode works...intermittently until it decides not to 4.) if you are trying to print planar/organic surface with a thickness within .02 of the nozzle width... don't... it doesnt work... 5.) simp3D has a lot of "failure recognition tools" but not a single "problem solving" tool 6.) fi you want to see the tool path while changing values in the process settings... good luck...you cant you have to enter and exit "preview mode" 100 times per part if you actually care to make any specific changes to the setup (per model) 7.) If you are looking to receive custom profiles (like the dual extrusion one for the ultimaker 2... good luck getting a phone call with tech support because the company that charges $150 per lic. doesnt have phone support... kinda shady. 8.) you NEVER get updates. No matter how bad the issue that you have when you have an issue it is your fault...(according to their ITs) 9.) there is NO Automatic "lay flat" option...well there is but Every model I have ever imported directly from solidworks ( no matter the original orientation) has come in crooked and their version of the lay flat option is complete garbage and really only makes it "generally flat" 10.) the "remove orphaned triangles" options is a bit... shady... from what I can tell all it does is chew up the edges on surfaces rather than doing what its supposed to, the same as the toool for lowering the poly count. (not quite as equal over the entire surface As I would have hoped...

I have a list of things a mile long that simplify3d sucks at doing... so dont leave with the assumption that it is the perfect software and If I was buying for personal use I probably wouldn't have purchased it.

it is better and works than cura depending on what you're doing with it. Rather than go into a giant list like neo why don't you tell me what you are printing (generally) and I could tell you where simplify3d/ cura may help/ hinder you.

I use it for the business I work for. What questions do you have?

Yeah same here Us too, and many other it would seem. I just went ahead and built it myself....

$150

I would be interested! Please webcast the talk! Or record it for youtube.

Danke

I would work with the kinect honestly, its not too much of a step to go from xbox to windows. but if you don't want to go through that trouble then it may be useful for you what are your doing. So the question that should always come first is. What are you using it for. Then What is this worth to me. Then how else could I use this technology. (sell it to other companies, sell the software to people who want to build the same thing, etc)

I can find out. Might even be able to pull a copy for you.

Apparently our in house programmer, made the software. (from what I understand.

have you tried manually feeding some filament through the nozzle? does it come through in a spiral or in a strait line? My solution is the blue painters tape. I carefully laid about 6 lines of 1.4 in tape and then placed an extra strip for the initial wipe action at the beginning of the print with a slight fold in it (shown in the circle) Btw random rant at ultimaker please move these clips, throw it away, and make ones that don't cut my thumb when I'm trying to remove them! ;)lol (denoted by the arrow)

At the company I work for we modified a kinect for body motion tracking for gait/ stride analysis. We are currently working on single individual tracking so it doesn't get confused with multiple people and a virtual assistant that will talk the customer through a set of stride motions/actions.

it looks like you over extruded a bit I would turn the fans up to %100 and slow the print down, possibly lower the temperature a bit when you get up to the higher layers, or set all of that up automatically in Simplify3D.

Random topic about Ultimaker2 usability/UIX thing. The SD card that comes with the UM2 is complete garbage. If you have 10 files or more navigating is the most irritating thing on the planet. Do yourself a favor and get a Photography sd card any high speed one will work. I think I got a 16 gb for around $14 and then separated the files with folders and now I can hold several hundred files (24-48 each folder) with little to no lag when scrolling through them on the ultimaker "print" interface.

Sehr cool! Sind Sie mit Wasser oder Wasserkühlflüssigkeitin Wasser verwendet abgekühlt Computer ?

Link?

Do you work for Ultimaker @Daid ? I just thought you were some UltiNinja saving humanity one printer problem at a time!?

I noticed that too one of the things that I love about the filled material is that the abrasive appearance is pleasant earthy and more of a natural look than the cold lines of standard material.

Thanx m8

Trust me I am not advocating for abs in the slightest. I am just trying to explain the purpose and proper uses of the fan/buildplate heater(Environmental Thermal Management) I forgot to include by the way that if you use too much fan and the print is huge you get the same problem in reverse where the previous layer cools TOO MUCH and that causes bad layer adhesion and can cause warping. Not convinced? take a piece of filament and heat it with a heat gun or lighter on one side which way does it warp...towards the heat...(depending on the material)...the same thing is happening when you let the layer cool the hotend is coming back around to that position and it is reheating that filament (only on one side) and warping it. (thus the purpose of heated build plates) The same general Idea explains heat shrink tubing, and why power lines sag in the summer. I use Simpliy3D to manage the temperature of litterally everything by individual layer. sometimes that takes hundreds of control points and rules but it is easily done if you can make a graph on the temperature you need for layers 1 25 50 and 100 then you can do some excel magic to output the numbers at every 10, 5, or even 1 layer intervals. The good news most of the values are common sense. (if layer 500 needs a 10 second wait time between layers and layer 2 is building just fine than find a happy medium then adjust the line to adjust for layers that take longer or shorter which is also easy to do if you use simplify3d (jeez I should be their wife for how much I'm tooting their horn)

Lol not really, I get 404

At least everyone would know that it is an honest unbiased review.

The way you bash them, I would expect them to bill you