KevinMakes

you may be able to use this method with a high gear ration to a spinning brush to clean the head as it "wipes"

Mine doesn't play games either. It is my office workstation. Not my man-cave battle station.

Okay I'll look into...whatever that is... We actually use Ethyl Vinyl Acetate for our foam products...random fact....I need more coffee. I'm on 15 hours here....

when pulling the filament back out there is the grooves from the knurled piece that cause a little feedback but otherwise it is smooth.

Also any test variables you would suggest would be greatly appreciated(duration of dip, time left to dry etc)

Hey Cloak, I am going to test every liquid known to man (well a bunch) to see if I can get some better results for smoothing pla and xtcf20... I'm probably going to test rubbing alcohol (probably wont do anything ) acetone a few potent bases (probably starting with NaOH) and a few acids (probably starting with some watered down HCl) Do you know of any print you can think of that would contain elements that are tricky to smooth? I would like to test something with a 40 ish% infill, a section of thin material that I can measure to test the amount of material eroded, ets.

Checked spring tension already its on the highest setting, the minimum travel for retract is kinda unhelpful. and the retracts are important because I'm using dual extrusion.

Has anyone else had an issue with printing parts with tons of retractions chewing through the filament and causing filament slippage? Solutions?

I don't mean to be mean... but you should seriously consider upgrading...a machine of those specs would cost about $14 on ebay to build. Hell if you build an intel atom machine you would be in better shape...if you have autocad 2016 legally I would assume that you have a little more than a little cash to throw away. a 9600gt?! I have 4 9800s that I use to hold my laptop up off my desk... As far as that goes... I would suggest a "minimum system requirements" notice with the software downloaded

I did try scaling it didn't seem to have much more effect than usual

Supporting Arguement: Machine Del xps i7 4770 32 gb ram 2x TitanX Generated a model with 5 million poly count could change settings easily while adding models

Wish we had that kind of service here in the U.S

Can anyone make sense of this. The issue I am having is perimeter deformation.

I get this at work all the time. I have tried the "sparing" method you described but us Americans get easily offend when you don't absolutely love their feedback. haha. So I usually say "I value your suggestion and will look into it." You're awful brave for using the open-discourse-suggestion business model and you guys are awesome for perusing it.

I may not have read enough in this thread but have you tried any smoothing methods with cf xt20?

hmm...you could add some sort of blade near the wipe area ( a serated strait blade) running the length of the front of the printer and make an extra action at the point of tool change to "wipe" back and forth essentially sawing through it. Also If you aren't using the other heater, you could use that connection for a heat based cutting method.

Have you considered adding any other hardware to the mix? a trimming mechanism that would cut the previous filament at the point where the filament exits the squid thingy or even as far as the ceramic piece. Then throw out a retract command and then when the filament clears the little blue squid looking thingy you could push the new filament through, It wouldn't be very accurate (as far as when the material should change in relation to how far you have printed unless you set up a prime pillar to get rid of that extra stuff) because of the old filament left in the nozzle. and if you were switching from a high temp material to a low temp material it would possibly have an issue extruding the left over high temp material.

Random questions I think may fit best here: Are you guys (Ultimaker Head Cheese's) planning on updating the Ultimaker 2 Dual Firmware when the updates come along for the regular firmware? One thing I have noticed about every electronic device that I have modified at a firmware level is that it is fairly difficult to do... First of all let me say I love the ability to select any firmware fairly easily from the cura software and whatnot.. but have you considered making a more user-friendly way (gui based)to edit the firmware with options for adding new and or different parts (hardware). Even if it voided any implied warranties, that would definitely put you ahead of the competition as far as customization goes for the type of people who look at a line of code and get queasy...(ME ) and I only had my printer a day before it was in pieces and a week before it was modified and in need of different firmware and I'm going to make this the worlds longest run on sentence because 'murica.

thanks

So I have a random curiosity. Does anyone know if there is a way to slow the travel speed, after a tool change action occurs? Or more specifically an option in the software that I can choose to set a speed of travel if a specific tool is the active one. Reasoning: One head is a .4mm nozzle and the other is a 1.6mm nozzle, I want the travel when the 1.6mm is active to be about 75% of the speed of the .4mm. Hardware: Um2 Dual Software: Cura and Simplify3D

You want forum activity? Give out a free roll of filament to the best print of any given period of time. Then make a post on the forum that is called FREE FILAMENT. Take that link to facebook tag all the big 3d printing pages. Boom. Forum activity.

Hmm, that is a good question. you would honestly just have to try. I don't know how much intelligence is built into the firmware that comes with the cura software. I use simplify3D for the most part. I am curious to know what you find though.

Would you give your recommendations for ninja flex? (durability? Breathable? does the color rub off on cloth? ) Also what temperatures did YOU find best to use with it? Did you notice any quirks you would find mention-able?

Have you tried using different concentrations of acetone? I don't know what acetone will play nicely with but maybe a low.... concentration? would work the same with a longer dip?

Oooh that sounds fantastic haha shoot some pictures when you get a chance. I am an industrial designer by trade so I only use my 3d printer every once in a while so I understand getting pulled off a project