KevinMakes

However...when you use the slicer simplify3D it allows you to set a specific time that each layer should take. (or rather a time limit before the next layer prints

Well I haven't read all the replies to this post but In my personal experience it depends on the part. For example if I was to print a 1mm cube there would not be enough time for the previous layer to cool before the next layer goes on which can casuse warping or deformation, and the inverse for larger prints so the idea behind the fan is to get to the previous layer cool enough to retain shape before the next layer goes on, as for why you didn't have troubles I would assume that you had a large part or rather multiple parts. Which would increase the TTN as I like to call it or (Time Till Next) Layer that is.

You could also post your image here and give specific dimensions. I can do it for you. I usually do these sort of things on my lunch breaks anyway. @jweaver

Wow! this guy went ahead and tried everything, kudos to whomever that was/is.

Maybe I should speak with colorfabb sales and see if they will send me some to review. lol

Awesome feedback guy! I posted this initially because I believe there should be some open discourse about the materials and their highs and lows and my findings with the various materials I will be testing in a business enviornment. This wasn't necessarily meant to bash colorfabb or anything in fact I am working on getting set up with a u.s. based supplier and ordering 8-10 2.2 kg rolls a month of their PLA/PHA. So don't get the wrong Idea. I just want to Clear any magical mist that is obscuring the cold hard facts behind these gimmick/fad materials.

Do you have a sample? a link? I may be interested in it if it is legitimately cork.

fix the edit?

I would honestly be interested to see a nylon/carbon composite.

in that case it was the woodfill fine it smelled a little like piine or cedar so that kind of led me to believe that it wasnt bamboo.

So, a general review on the "woodfill" material... It is no secret that I am pretty unimpressed by the colorfabb...gimmick type materials... Why? Almost all of the desired results from the materials are false, the cfxt20 (carbon fiber filament) contains about 5% more chopped filament fibers than the material from proto pasta... however both material making companies decided it would be a brilliant Idea to quite litterally chop the fibers so small that they are more of a carbon DUST than anything else, which means that there is no structural integrity gained by these materials, if fact in recent tests...just plain old ultimaker PLA (the old stuff) has outperformed all of them. there was a slight increase in rigidity but litterally so infentesimal that it was pointless too record it, On top of that it was extremely brittle/fragile now to be fair my expectations were really low because I under how carbon fibers work in the typical mesh that they are normally used in and I didnt see the carbon fibers really meeting that standard of strength and rigidity. So colorfabb was nice enough to send me a smaple of their... woodfill? who knows what it really is (bamboo, pine...) because the sample didn't actually say anything about what it was or why they were sending it... kind of an odd business plan. If I was sending out free samples of something I would give them a little introductory paper to introduce the material give a few stats about it send them a twitter/instagram./ facebook link to share what the recipient of the material decided to do with it, that way they are selling to others...buuuut no...I got a clear plastic bag with a roll of random filament...not complaining...just laughing at the lost potential. So on to the testing, i use a 1.2 mm nozzle so most people are just going to discount these results. Rigidity 1.) CF-XT20 2.) PLA (Ultimakers stuff before the most recent revision) 3.) CF Woodfill Surface Abrasion resistance 1.)PLA (Ultimakers stuff before the most recent revision) Tied for 2nd CF Woodfill CF-XT20 Shape Retention PLA (Ultimakers stuff before the most recent revision) CF Woodfill CF-XT20 Print Cleanliness PLA (Ultimakers stuff before the most recent revision) CF Woodfill CF-XT20 Heat resistance CF-XT20 CF Woodfill PLA (Ultimakers stuff before the most recent revision) Now to explain some of these results... The tests were simple jig bend tests (similar to a small scale english wheel, the heat resistance was a bit of a wasted test because the test was with a heat gun and a weighted bend test so no real hard evidence results, the abrasion test was a 5 lb weight with a sharpened center punch slid across the face of the test parts, the shape retention was seperate from the rigidity because there were different results that (in my opinion) were important, print cleanliness is all about stranding, Stringing, uniformity in density, flexibility in settings etc to me if it is something else to you well...yeah test it yourself...haha Additional random facts first of all the cfxt20 made no efforts to retain its shape after about 20 deg bend, it crumbled away (for lack of better terms) at the point of stress The settings I used were the the best of my ability the best possible printing settings (I tried a lot of different settings especially with the cfxt20 because I refused to believe that the material was really that bad even though it logically makes sense) In closing, the cfxt20 is more of a gimmick than a practical filament, my suggestion to colorfabb in the future would be to use some sort of method of filament creation which allows the fibers to be a bit (lets be real...a lot) longer, because that is the essence of how carbon fiber is so strong so they might as well put ground up spaghetti noodles in the filament. The wood-fill material is cute, not really stain-able as I had hoped, but a good start to a more biodegradable recyclable world and fun to play with and it made my office smell nice while printing.

ooooh a prebuilt firmware for dual extrusion with the ultimaker2? good! the cura version+ some tweaks is getting really old and I dont have the time to commit to a full rebuild

Haha, well once you get a 3d model built I could run an analysis against it to tell you the points that would be terminating at the same time, that way you could push them further back or forward in any ed modelling software to minimize that. (power surfacing with solidworks works well) Let me know if you want any help.

Had a few up earlier... had to take it down once we release the product I can post pictures for you guys again. Sorry. There's two companies that we compete with... that have a bunch of investors... who are going to be very mad once I give teh pres. teh go ahead to publicize the fact that we can print them 4 times as fast. The ad camp. comes out in 2 weeks so I would say I could safely post it in a few weeks without fear of the proprietary build methods betting used by them first. Sorry I should have just waited til then.

I have a hard time seing this one done without atleast 30+ hours into the print... those height terminations can be quite messy. Granted I am not as familiar wint inorganic non flowing surfaces when it comes to printing. would be very interesting to see in a 3d format.

I love the ideer of using existion movements to articulate a whole new purpose.

Me too, I ...borrowed... the software at first for testing at home. For obvious reasons I chose to get a legitimate version for the company I work for once I knew I would be satisfied with the product. Yes it is really easy to set up a custom machine and if you get in touch of the s3d tech support (by email only) you get mediocre support. But they will send you the Ultimaker 2 Dual extrusion "profile" (or I can email it to you) and then all you need is the firmware (there's a basic version of the ulti2dual firmware in the Cura program files) (I can send you that too) if you aren't up to building your own. If you would like to see a test run of the software I would be glad to show you on a team viewer meeting or something I was thinking about making a review of the software but didn't really see a demand for it.

haha oh the days when I used sub 230 deg temps

@S3D As much as I hate to be someones free advertisement...Simplify3D Has some amazing resources including manual jog, manual extrude and it supports and encourages dual extrusion. @ a cool $150 the software is not for the occasional printing printnewb. I had my company buy it and it was probably the most beneficial purchase to getting dual extrusion working with minimal tweaking.

you could have the spinning done with the original wipe action hook a drive with the x travel and spin the drive with the y action... and the rubber high temp spatula material would work perfect, its safe up to the 250 deg c range

My design it's for Umo+ https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-original-plus-dual-extrusion-magnetic-head-changer For UM2, ultiarjan: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-head-ultimaker2 Thanks m8

Im working on something, trying to keep it 3d printable as possible.

@neotko Can I please have your ultimaker2 design...?

I can slap something together. Ill probably start with the hand drawn.

So the name of this part is being obscured because well its proprietary and I don't want anyone searching this type of object to find this thread....but there's cool things going on here and I have to share it. A bit of back story then the stats then the pictures: We knew that the objects z resolution wasn't that important to us, if the layers bonded and didn't look super ugly then it would work, we also knew that a 10 hour print time would not fly. So to speed the process up I made a bigger (1.6 mm) nozzle and then got our machine working with dual extrusion for any prints that needed to be wider than 2.9 (the threshold that I wanted for overlap to extrude slowly with high bondage between layers for more strength) Then came the issue of getting a good tool path, we tried a horizontal based with high infill and that was taking far too long so I changed the orientation of the part and was able to cut about an hour with just getting rid of the support material. Then came the rectilinear tool path, I knew that the traditional cross hatch per layer would not work because the zig zag would take much more time and drastically increase wear on the machine, and 2 left to right passes was just all-around much more logical than 500 front to back...this will make sense with the picture. Then placing the start of each tool path closest to 500x 0y cleaned up the print due to bad transitions and allowed me to stop using retraction (currently using retraction still for cleaner edges. Lastly, this object was printed ridiculously fast (in 22 and a half minutes) The volume of the part is with a total filament length of 5963.3 mm. Ill let you do the math because I came up with 3 different results 3 different times and if I get it wrong I dont want teh interwebs's know-it-alls to murder my face. If anyone wants to comment teh maths then please do. Stats PLA, 1.6 mm nozzle, Ultimaker 2, .4 layer height, 1 outline/shell w/ 0% infill, part is: 1.95 mm thick (global) approx 175 long x 78 high (wide) and various heat settings as well as fan settings were used based on the layer #