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Torgeir

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Posts posted by Torgeir

  1. Hi @friedl_basson,

     

    As you have printed for some time with TPE and maybe at some higher print temperature?

    Then some under extrusion started.

     

    I would check that the feeder is function properly, then that the hot end cooling fan is working and finally the insulation coupler (TFM).

     

    If one of those three items fails it will always led to under extrusion of some sort.

     

    Good luck

     

    Torgeir 

  2. Hi there,

     

    I'd just looked at your gcode file -and for sure something strange is happening during the slicing/storing of your model.

    This sliced model looks like it is "printed" 🙃 by a faulty printer, I'll never seen a Cura slicing model like this..

    But I'm sure Greg will take a good luck at this one. 😕

     

    There "appears" to be some issues with your printer, but maybe better to have your slicer problem fixed before blaming your printer.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

  3. Well, this depend a little.

    You can try to print using "spiralize mode" (single wall), but then you will not have a full covered top (about max 95 deg).

    Using this simply leave a small hole in the hi point.

     

    To print it fully closed, you will need to use a gradually thicker wall as you approaching the top.

    If you need it to "be/look" nice at the inner wall as well you'll need support.

     

    But it will be better if you have a dual nozzle system and using PVA or "break away" as support.

     

    The way you design you "dome" and how it's size matching nozzle width also count in order to improve here.

     

    You'll need to try and tune your setting / material type for best result here.

     

    Good luck

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

     

  4. Hi @Jim8163,

     

    as you did not tell us what kind of op system you use, Windows, Apple or perhaps Linux?

    This and the version of the one you're using.

    Could be a number of things preventing this to work.

     

    However, there might be one not so known..  Did you renew your Fusion 360?

     

    If not, -you would not be able to send any stl file to your printer -but you might still be able to make drawings..

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

  5. Carlok said:

     

    Tweaking the Z-axis is simple to implement in the printer software, but it's fixing a symptom rather than the real problem.

     

    -------------------------

     

    This can not be said in any better way and should be an advice to so many service agencies that make "immediate" improvements ..

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

  6. Hi @TheLoki,

     

    I uploaded your stl file and sliced it for my UM2E+. The only printer I have that can -"hardly" print that object with.

    So, had to deselect brim/skirt - set to none.

     

    I sliced it with Archcne beta, standard profile (Normal 0.15) increased to 0.2 height..

    Also used support with support blocker inside cause cura like to support inside, -no combing -but used retraction.

     

    Layer one is all completed.

     

    Here is how it looks.

     

    First_layer.thumb.jpg.4d39970f9e39ecf0ff1804a0f4998773.jpg

     

     

    Whole_object.thumb.jpg.9e3b0a869457eeb47f38255e399e0113.jpg

     

    Good luck

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

  7. Hi Folks,

     

    This relay only serve as a power switch for the 24 VDC.

    As gr5 said, it might be used for external fire/smoke detectors for disabling power to the heaters.

     

    Sorry for the noise.

    Torgeir

     

     

     

    I'll say this approach might be a risky thing to do by solving the problem "permanently" this way, cause this relay actually is a safety device, -hence cutting power to heat bed and heat block if one of the temp sensors fails..

     

    This relay is a high priority element in our UM2 printers that "turn off" the high current to items (all heaters and stepper motors) inside the printer.

     

    Just to be mentioned.

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

  8. Hi @scurrscurr,

     

    Sorry, but I misunderstood the issue here..

     

    I've made a 215 mm and 20 mm high "cylinder" in Fusion 360 and got it into Cura 4.8.0 with an UM3E setup.

    I can see that you're very close to be able to slice. 

    When I'd scaled down to 99.3 % (0.7% down), I could slice the model.

     

    This is very little, so in "theory" it should be possible..

     

    First thing to do;

    1)  Select Brim/Skirt to "none"

    2)  Deselect print core 2

    You will now see the "max print area" using core no1.

     

    If you go to "setting printers" then to "manage printer", you'll now see "Ultimaker 3 Extended" and under here press "Machine settings". 

     

    Here you will see:  X (width) = 233 mm and Y(dept) = 215 mm.

    If you increase those two values by 3 mm each, Cura will slice your object.

     

    HOWEVER, I do not know if there is enough safe overrun to do this, so this has to be answered by someone in Ultimaker..

     

    Edit: Both end/stop switches may be a little adjusted in order to add slightly more space..

             However, this require new calibration of "core switch" setting and bed clearance..

     

     

    Please do not try to print like this before all this is checked.

     

    Here is a picture of the simple model I've made for checking this.

     

    Max_Bed_Size.thumb.jpg.843a2c903228e7cd5eeecf8d862a8ef0.jpg

     

    Good Luck

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

  9. 21 minutes ago, Falko said:

     

    Dann habe ich was falsch verstanden

     

     

    Hab ich versucht, hat aber nichts gebracht. Wahrscheinlich habe ich mit meinen unruhigen Fingern mehr Schaden als gutes verursacht.

     

    Es war eine Schande, aber kümmern Sie sich um die Kochplatte, Sie werden sie wahrscheinlich reparieren lassen. Der Sensor selbst existiert und ist nicht schwer zu bekommen.

     

    Viel Glück
    Torgeir

  10. 22 minutes ago, Falko said:

     

    Hatte grad wieder eine meiner unglaublichen Offenbarungen...

     

    Da bei mir noch ein Sensor für den O-Block über war, dachte ich mir dass man das Ding doch eiegentlich nur anstatt des richtigen Kabels an den Temp3 muss. Jetzt ist aus der Not der Sensor unter das Bett geklebt, und scheint auch genau genug zu messen.

     

     

    Ich gehe mal davon aus dass Sie von igo3d sind?

     

    An sich würde ich ja einsvhicken, aber jeden Tag den der Drucker still steht kostet  mich Umsatz im zwei bis dreistelligen Bereich. Wahrscheinlich würde eher eine neue Platte gekauft als dass der Drucker ein bis zwei Wochen, oder was es halt dauert, weg ist. danke trotzdem für den Einsatz.

     

    Nein, ich weiß nichts über sie, habe aber nur bei Google nachgefragt, ob sie Ultimaker-Drucker verkaufen.

    Ich komme aus Norwegen, ganz oben im Norden.
     
    Es ist tatsächlich möglich, Drähte (flexibler Durchmesser 0,4 mm) direkt auf jeder Seite des Sensors (PT100) und an jedem der Anschlüsse auf der Heizplatte zu löten.

    Wenn der Fehler auf der Seite des Heizelements gewesen wäre, wäre eine vollständige Reparatur problematisch gewesen.

     

    Schöne Grüße
    Torgeir

  11. Hallo Falco,

    Dies ist ein Fehler, der "häufig" am Kochfeld auftritt.
    Es ist die Verbindung zum Temperatursensor, die regelmäßig ausfällt.
    Dies können die Lötpunkte am Sensor oder das Löten zwischen dem Kontakt und der Kupferfolie sein. Wir haben an beiden Stellen Fehler gesehen.
    Da Sie die Steckverbinder bereits überprüft haben, ist es möglicherweise an der Zeit, das Löten am Sensor selbst zu überprüfen.

    Hier ist ein Bild des Sensors (PT100) am Kochfeld.

     

    Wie Sie sehen können, besteht zwischen dem Sensor und den Anschlüssen ein sehr kurzer Abstand.
    Aber lassen Sie uns den Fehler überprüfen ..

     

    PT100_Conn_Bed.jpg.688c6ebe9072bba6615d9cd414f5efda.jpg

     

     

     

    Mit besten Empfehlungen
    Torgeir

    • Like 2
  12. Hi Jeff,

     

    I've been looking into the wiring diagram for this circuit and since this heater element is driven by a NMOS p-ch transistor,

    both of this wires will be positive when no power is feed to the heat element. When the transistor is switched to on (for heating), the defined negative pin goes to ground. This will continue in a cycle pattern according to heat demand. I'll think ultimaker is using the "bang - bang" mode with a fixed frequency and timed on/off cycle (for reducing EMF noise).

     

    Anyway, it looks like your "capacitive electronic chip" is most likely fried by the 24 VDC.  Max input here is +3.3VDC!

     

    Way to go..  🙂

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    • Like 1
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