[Filament stuck in printhead]

18 minutes ago, talker13 said:

Pretty sure I'm seeing a similar issue.  Can guarantee that the filament is melting at the top of the print core.  I can see where it has ballooned out at the top of the print core and will no longer feed into it.  Additionally, because of the ballooning, the filament cannot be pulled out either.   I had to wind up using a small saw to cut through the filament to pull out the core.

I have had this with 3 cores now.  Originally, it happened with an older core, but I tried a new one and then a new core with a brand new filament as well.  I tried hot pulls as well (didn't work) and cannot even push it through (I have tried heating the core to 250-270 and pushing using a cleaning rod) and it doesn't budge.

 

 

HI @talker13

 

Three times like this, -this looks like your front fan does not  work properly..

When this happen, heat will climb upward into the normal "cold zone" and filament is "glued" inside the tube.

Check to see if the front fan is blocked by filament strings etc., -or if it's just stopped for other reasons.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

[Ultimaker 2 Massive Printer-Head Temperature Fluctuations]

Hi @Innhoster

 

If you just bought the Olsson block kit and used the old heater and PT100 temp sensor as I did, it will work well.

Because there is not "much" different in between the old block mass and the Olsson block mass.

I did just that and have a temp variation of 1 deg Celsius up or down from the preset temperature during normal printing.

 

However, if you have an air pocket (if the temp sensor fit too loosely) the sensing will be delayed and the temperature may fluctuate. To fix such a problem you may use copper paste as a heat sink compound -and can actually be used on the heater as well. This treatment will improve the thermal efficiency for the heat block and improve the temperature regulation.

 

Note well!

After such treatment, use a cotton rag to wipe off the excess grease. You'll need to heat up the nozzle to normal printing temperature in order to dry out the light oil substances that's part this grease. Make sure you have good ventilation as it might ooze a little when starting to heat the nozzle block. Increase the nozzle temperature in step by step slowly. Have a cotton rag ready to collect any spillage escaping from the block.

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Long ago I'd read in here that you should not use copper paste on the heater as this paste will harden up!

 

This is absolutely nonsense and cannot be copper pasta.

Copper pasta will withstand temperatures up to 1100 deg Celsius before begins to decompose. 

Besides, we are using temperatures very far from this temperature area.

I've used copper pasta this way all the time since I've built my printer in 2015.

No problem removing the heater or the temp sensor.

 

I can set the temperature for PLA to 209 deg. Celsius and print with a filament flow of 10 mm³/sec.

 

This when using 0.4 mm nozzle and the 25 watt (original) heat element for UM2.

 

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

[How to correct big gaps in skin in Cura]

Hi there, @Billy771

I've made the same correction as @GregValiant, using top layer in order to print the fairing for the stub wing.
However, I've removed the infill used and did not use any support.

 

Key issues for this part of the wing.

It transfer the lift forces to the air frame and is the most stressed part on the glider.
Need to have good adhesion to make it strong -and the fairing is integrated into the stubwing -supporting the wing.
Due to the above fact, the layer height is reduced to 0.1mm.

Sure, I've tried using 0.15mm layer height -but did not work well.
You may try to change the layer height and see the problem in preview mode.

 

For sure, there is a number of ways to do this.

 

Here is the way I did it.

 

Using Cura 4.1.0 for THIS print.

 

So, to the important change to setting  for this slicing is:

Used your profile and changed:

 

Quality.
Layer height:  0.1 mm

 

Shell.
Outer Before Inner wall: Selected on.
Compensate Outer Wall Overlaps: Selected on.
Top layers: 8
 

 

Infill.
Infill density: 0

 

Build plate Adhesion.
Build plate Adhesion type: Skirt (you may use brim, but it's some work to remove).

 

Experimental.
Minimum polygon Circumference: 0.5 mm
Use adaptive layers: Selected on.

 

That's all.

 

Here is a picture of how an adaptive layer is supported during build up.

 

And two..

 

This is how it looks in the critical area, -much better line adhesion this way.

 

I'll think this part is lighter (56 gram), but it take a long time to print!

 

Before starting printing such a model, make sure your printer can handle this task. Everything has to be well tuned!

 

Here is your modified project file.

CE3_639804002_Jokerwing-part-1-leftright-Billyed.01_Cura_4_1_0_.3mf

 

And here is the gcode file.

CE3_639804002_Jokerwing-part-1-leftright-Billyed.01_Cura_4_1_0_.gcode

 

For practical reason I've removed the other side of the stub wing, but settings will be the same.

I'll think it's better to print one by time.

 

There might be some area to fine tune, as wall width and flow etc.

 

Good luck

Thanks

Torgeir.

 

 

[I'm trying to print a cylinder with a cut out, on the build it looks fine, but doesn't slice.]

Off topic.

 

Ehmm.. No not that quick, Greg. I'm just awake a few hour before you're.  😁

Also digging into another problem -suddenly popping up.. 😉

 

Torgeir

 

 

[I'm trying to print a cylinder with a cut out, on the build it looks fine, but doesn't slice.]

Hi @Liampeffers

 

Welcome in here.

There is nothing wrong here, -except that the wall thickness at this point is "super tiny", so there is no printer like we're using that can handle such a sharp edge. You'll need to redesign your model so the wall thickness have width the printer can handle.

Cura slicer in preview mode will show how your model will look like as it "know" the limitation..

Just select a wall size at "around" 0.3 mm and see how this goes.

 

Good luck.

Thanks

Torgeir 

[Ultimaker 2 Massive Printer-Head Temperature Fluctuations]

Hi @Innhoster

 

So you've only updated the print head from the UM2+ kit?

 

You have to choose firmware for an UM2 with an Olson heat block..

 

Make sure you have installed an UM2 printer with Olsson block in your Cura slicer.

Select the printer in Cura and update your firmware like this;

 

 

That should do it.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[Bridge Nylon (Taulman) Adhesion Issues]

Hi @FRabe,

 

Well, I've printed with Taulman Bridge Nylon.. 

For this I'm using my UM2E+, -my experimental printer.

 

First, you need to "prepare" a treatment of the heat bed!

 

1) Clean the heat bed.

2) Make a mixture of diluted PLA glue (carpenter wood glue) maybe better known nowadays as; "Pritt white glue".

     It will be; one part of "Pritt" and 15 parts of water approx. Mix it well!

3) Use a "foam" brush and cover the needed area with this "glue mixture" -and let dry - then repeat three times!

 

This will keep your model onto the bed during printing (using bed temp of (60-65) deg. Celsius).

Use hand warm water bath to remove the model from the bed, if it stick, give it some time to loosen.

 

Next, Cover the top (if you do not have the air manager). On the UM2E+ I'm using a plastic box for this purpose.

This is important, as nylon is "sensitive" for cold drafts from above.

 

Another important trick that's helps allot, is using draft shield, you'll find it under "experimental".

 

The print temperature I'm use is (253-255) deg. Celsius.

 

Finally, -do print some slow, (30-40) mm/sec, in order to have good adhesion.

 

The inside printer "camber" temperature is important to keep stable and avoid draft.

 

I've been printing "super" tiny nylon membrane and solid (100% infill) blocks using this method with great result. 🙂

 

That's all.

 

Good luck.

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

[Printing thin walls when wall thickness equals nozzle diameter]

Hi @CaeZer.

 

Welcome in here.

Not very easy to answer, -cause it depend much of the object you're printing.

Sometimes we want it tiny and light, others "light" and strong..  But still single wall..

 

There is lots of tread about this in here to learn from.

 

You may also try printing model aircraft wing parts with "added" profile settings. Some sellers give parts of model for free to test how their products looks after printing.

 

Often you'll need to adjust and adapt profiles to fit your printer.

 

In the example in this tread, all the settings are given.

If you download the above project file, it contain the model and all printer settings for printing his model.

 

Here is the file adapted "some -in fact very little" for my printer, an UM2E+:

For this file you'll need to use "Cura version; Arachne Beta".

 

UM2E_Head2_Arachne_Beta.3mf

 

To see how this file looks in Cura viewer, save the file for printing -without modifying anything, -then open the saved gcode file.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

[Getting Better Dimensional Accuracy - Calibration]

Hi @my3DBr,

 

Well, the nozzle in general is important -as many other parts of the printing process.

I do not know much about "double/multi" channel nozzles, but for sure they are made to improve heat transfer to the filament flowing through the nozzle and this in order to print faster..  Higher speed will always degrade precision by some degree.

 

I'll think that if you want to have precision, you have to use the original nozzles and use the advised settings -"engineer setting".

 

How did the test go?

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

[Getting Better Dimensional Accuracy - Calibration]

Yes, the easy thing first.. 👍

 

I've also seen a strange nozzle delivering a little more on one side..

 

Well, good luck with testing..

 

Torgeir

[Getting Better Dimensional Accuracy - Calibration]

I'll agree with @Smithy as there is better setting for better precision, but I'll think there is more mechanical to check, -cause this is a little to much of an error -IMO.

So I would like to know how the two sliding bearing inside the head is, -or simply do you have ANY play here?

You can check this easily without power up the printer. Try to move the head fore and aft (Y axis) without moving the head, if there is any play you will easily feel it. Do the same with the X axis.

The ting is there can be play that only occur at some places on the bed -but feels OK elsewhere.

Also, are the two 6 mm axis absolute strait?

When try to tune the printer up to specs, the above is for sure a must. Been there done that.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

There is more, but what about this?

 

[How to do X/Y dimension calibration?]

I've just answered this issue in another tread 15 minute ago.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[Getting Better Dimensional Accuracy - Calibration]

Hi there.

 

I would check that the two 6 mm shafts is absolute parallel with the two rotating 8 mm shafts it is moving in between.

I.E. The shaft going across (if you look into the printer) is the X shaft as head go along this shaft. 

 

There is a tool you can print (we'll need two of them), that can be "clamped" to the (8 & 6)mm shafts in order to fine adjust the pulleye position by unscrew the two setscrews.

 

To just have an idea of how much off it is, use a caliper and measure between the shafts, -or any fixed object that can be used as a metering device to see that the relative distance is the same. There is 8 places to check..

 

Here's the Ultimaker site for this problem.

 

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879-How-to-align-the-axles-on-your-Ultimaker-printer

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

[Vase mode is retracting]

Octoprint, aha.. 

 

This app can do -lots of thing, -even "adjust" the firmware...

So print this vase without using the Octoprint and see the difference.

 

Octoprint is connected to the printer using the USB to Raspberry PI and from here you're connected via ethernet (LAN) to your PC or -phone. Lots of people use it for remote control and camera monitoring.

This app can be very handy, -but you need to know it very well!

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

[Vase mode is retracting]

This show how a good tuned printer can perform if the model is right.  😏

 

Well done.

Torgeir

[Vase mode is retracting]

@Mlogue9

 

Hi Matt.

 

I've to say this is one of the best example I've seen in here of using "spiralize mode".

The retractions you observed in the very beginning is Cura making the right "pitch path" before starting "spiralizing".

Use "Notepad++" and look at the gcode. From layer 4 -and on, Cura start spiralizing.

I've checked your gcode file using Cura 4.10.0 and also with S3D (another brand of gcode viewer).

Both of them showed a nice model in preview mode.

There might be something I've missed, but I'm sure @GregValiant can have a look at this.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended]

You're welcome.

I printed this spacer, however it started to crimp due to the heat -so I just bought the spacer to avoid leakage..

With your new Bondtech, I'll think a steel spacer is a must -due to the hi pressure it can make.

 

Good luck.

Torgeir

[3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended]

Hi @my3DBr,

 

I'll think @gr5, nailed your problem.

 

You should get read of that spring and use a steel spacer -as it will increase the life length of your coupler(s).

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[How to print non-watertight models / 0mm walls?]

@JaXXoN

 

Hi Bernard.

 

I know Fusion 360, Autocad variants and SolidWorks plus some more..

However, this is the first time I've heard about MoI3D. Have seen over the years that some of the CAD software had some problems with not snap lines properly together, resulting in line offset etc.

Those small deviations might be hard to see, -normally, but for our drawn 3D objects this might cause problems.

 

Fusion 360 from Autocad, is free to use for hobbyist use, but you can only save 10 3D files! So if you want to still use it, -you can and you can make a stl file of the drawn object, but you can't save your drawing!

 

However, several in here use/have FreeCad and so do I, but I have not used it much to be honest.

But people in here say FreeCad is a good alternative to make good drawing for Cura to slice..

 

I may try to print this file, but at the moment too busy with other stuff. 🙂

 

Good luck

Cheers

Torgeir

[3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended]

Hi @my3DBr

 

How many E-steps are you using with this setup?

They advice E-steps for an UM2+ to be "311", but this is for an 1.8 deg/step motor. (200 step/360 deg)

Found here:

https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddg-extruder/

 

As you have the old stepper (from UM2E) that's 0.9 deg/Step. (400 step/360 deg)

According to this, -you'll need to double the number of steps by 2, I.E. E=2*311E=622 E-step, for your setup.

 

If the E-step setting is too high, the stepper may miss step.

Also, if the current setting is too low you may see missed step.

Normal current setting for the feeder stepper motor (E1 or E2) is 1200 mA.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

[How to print non-watertight models / 0mm walls?]

@JaXXoN

 

Hi Bernard.

 

There was a problem with Cura detecting the inner wall.

So I made this sphere in Fusion 360 (Autocad free version) Just 20 mm diameter and strait hole dia. 8 mm.

The wall gradually increased from approx 70 deg. (0.4 mm to top 0.8 mm) and same at the bottom.

Seems to be possible to print, but not sure how it will be.

Here is a picture how it's looking in Cura Arachne Beta.

 

 

Here's the your project file from Cura Arachne Beta;

CFFFP_Sphere_Exp_Arachne_B_0_2mm.3mf

And the gcode, but have not checked this one..

CFFFP_Sphere_Exp_Arachne_B_0_2mm.gcode

 

Torgeir

[UM2+ started to cornerlift after a few years of perfect print]

Hi @philippe44

 

Have you checked that the two 6 mm axes are clicked in place to the four plastic holders -and are not loose?

This can make your adjustment faulty..

Also, there could be play in between the head bearings and the axes at different places on the bed.

 

Thanks

Torgeir    

[How to print non-watertight models / 0mm walls?]

Hi @JaXXoN

 

I'll say this is the biggest printer I've seen in here -covering one cubic meter.. 👍 Self built?  🙂

 

The sphere you have here is a small and high resolution object (20X20X20)mm "approx". So printing this one with 0.2 mm layer height (0.4 mm nozzle) is not easy.  Building up a single sphere model will always end up with a hole in the top, the only way to make this possible without a hole is just like you have done it.

To keep the outside sphere, we'll gradually from inside (at app 75-85 deg) above/below and ofc. done when drawing the model.

 

I've imported your project file into "Cura "Arachne Engine Beta" as this is the best slicer for such models IMO.

 

The first picture is just with your original settings and here it is looking pretty much as in Cura 4.10.0 seen here;

All pictures from above, where you can see the settings and the changes.

 

 

Here are picture no 2, one change selected "Use Adaptive Layers";

Here the effect is seen, but some limited..

 

In this third picture I've reduced layer height from 0.2 mm to 0.1 mm ;

Here you'll see a drastic "improvement", but the last part is a problem as the nozzle stay close for "some" time..

 

This last picture, just changed another parameter line width to 0.55 mm, kind of extreme but you can see this difference.

By using Post processing script controlling those last layers temperature toward the top may be worth the effort.;

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

[Temperature Tower Gaps Failure using manufacturer recommended temperature. Normal?]

Hi @Speckles

 

You made the flow test good, I could see, -if there was a feeding problem, you would not be able to finish this test.

The speed also increase for each flow setting up to max 10 mm³ /sec.  This is why you have a this acceleration/resonance

shadows that's worse in the upper flow rate area, but this result is quite normal for an UM2 types of printer.

This is actually a good test to confirm that your UM2+ flow is up to standard..

My best advice would be to test with standard PLA, with printing temperature (200-210)deg. C., as this is more easy to handle -and will show you what is possible to make by printing with thermoplastic.

 

You have chosen on of the "exotic" brand of PLA (FormFutura Volcano PLA) and this is not a good starting filament to learn from. For this filament there is so many parameters to handle in order to have a quality print, so -much more fighting before the fun can begin.

 

When looking at the first layer of the project file you attached in here, I can see the first layer is not squished as it should be, the layers would normally be "glued" together to a solid flat figure(s) that's holding your object to the bed during the whole printing process.

 

So never go higher than 0.27mm (default for 0.4 mm nozzle) height for this nozzle size.

Do the nozzle height adjustment a several times, using a tiny ATM note, you should only feel that the note barely touch this note. I'm only making this adjustment after nozzle change or when the bed have been out for cleaning.

Also, make sure that the bed is "super" clean without any fingermarks etc.

 

A little more about this test object, the first segment (20 mm) is printed with low temperature (220 deg. C.,?.)

The highest segment (from 100 mm and up) is printed with 220 deg. C.  So here the 245 deg. C., is missing.

This is done by using "post processing" script, in order to adjust the temperature with the gcode file during printing.

 

Before printing with other filaments, make sure that the nozzle is free of debris from old filament, clean using "atomic Bobs" method using same type of filament lastly used!  This is important.

 

As UM2 type printers have manual temperature control, the Ultimaker2 "flavour" have no implemented temperature control. 

 

However, by changing setting for the printer in Cura to "RepRap" flavour like this:

 

 

Here is the setting for filament with Ultimaker2 flavour:

 

This with RepRap flavour:

 

This way give better handling of the temperature during printing and you'll have a little better support by the profiles made for your printer.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

  

[Printing thin walls when wall thickness equals nozzle diameter]

Hi @akayar

 

Your model has a double wall, thou super tiny.

As @gr5 said, in this case Cura's newest version "Arachne Engine Beta" (latest version) is the slicer for this problem.

Cause there is two walls, the slicer try the closest path and this is why the surface is uneven esp. at the top because  the wall distance increase at this place.

 

With Cura Arachne Beta, you'll have much better control of the layer width.

 

Using the default setting for my printer (UM2E+) and used fine profile (0.1 mm line height) and changed "Line width" to 0.5 mm. Checked the "Saved" gcode file in Cura Arachne Beta and found no issues, then opened the same file in S3D and the object was superb. (This is the best "water test" I can do to be reasonably sure that this print will "shine".)

 

Thanks

Torgeir