Torgeir
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Posts posted by Torgeir
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Hi @Disobeyed,
Sorry to hear that..
When you said white led, are you talking about the light strip inside the printer?
So to the amber light, is this the one on the main PCB?
There is "several" LED lights, so we need to know the correct one.
There is three "amber/red" lights, two yellow and one green LED on the main PCB.
Here is the PCB layout with associated components:
Please indicate here.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi there.
Just come to think about this issue.
You may check this tread, here you'll find some interesting tip.
Check the insulating on the right side (under cartridge 2), -the insulating over the right hand side"locking tab" for the captive sensor plate. If this happen during leveling or when printing with nozzle 2, this could be the error.
There is two locking tabs holding the captive sensor plate in position the L/H side tab do not need insulation.
These two metal tabs is not grounded. However, on the R/H side the ground power cable (for the cartridge heating element) is very close to this insulated tab. So if there is a short at this point, the bed leveling will fail.
As this cartridge can/is moving up/down quite often during double core printing, -this is a critical point to check that this insulation (the black heat shrink tube mounted on this tab) are without signs of wear and tear.
Thanks
Torgeir
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On 7/9/2021 at 3:50 AM, UALib3D said:
Torgeir:
1) Initially I had it supported that way Greg did, but without the tree supports. The issue is that I know I was have ugly layer lines and say trying to minimize them by putting them on the thin edges. I am printing a test print right now with Greg's orientation and we'll check it's surface finish.
2) I have support material as extruder 1, so no need to disable the second print core
3) Great tip about the combing, I will have to look into that for future prints.
4) I have used that feature in the past but couldn't on this print with the orientation I selected. I think you can see the results of not using supports in the gear teeth.
5) I also use skirt most of the time, but brim is the default and I didn't want to mess with too much for my sample. We also have ambient temperature issue where I work.
Do you have any problems with your default surface finish on your supports on your UM3? I would love to see some of your prints to compare and contrast!
Greg:
My kingdom for the ability to modify the files. Unfortunately we don't have the bandwidth to do those corrections, design via email is a nightmare if you've never tried it. I tried my hand at a redesign, just to practice, and I did a similar split but I chose a half lap joint.
My service is concerned with speed of print and easy of customer interaction, they want folks to be excited to 3D print stuff. We do have a separate department that I can refer folks to but if I can dial in our settings, that would go a long way. Especially since the other department refers back to us for print profiles.
I deeply appreciate the work you've put into brain storming solutions, none the less.
Here is the last piece I printed, using Torgeir's suggestions, it's pretty good and I wonder how it compares to your own prints.
Hi @UALib3D,
I've just printed your model using Cura 4.10.0 and Arachne engine beta.
Printed it with black TPLA as it (black color) have better emission than any other color.
As I've an UMS3, I used same print quality profile (corrected with your setting and those I've added).
Made some pictures of the two prints in daylight for better details..
The first two pictures is just finished printing with Cura 4.10.0 :
In this two pictures above you can see the boundary between the support and the model.
The support just snap easily off by using hand, so no tools needed.
Here you'll see the acceleration/deceleration by changing the object angle in this daylight, quite as normal, but you cannot feel this with your finger nail..
Yet another angle to see the upper surface.
Here you see that the support side could be better by reducing the distance say -from 0.3 to 0.25 mm, however this can often led to some extra job to remove a little support remains. So a little testing may pay off.
(As you see, it looks rough, but nothing is loose or protruding from this surface.)
In the next pictures there is the used support filament on the weight, -this as I've reduced the support in Arachne Beta just to show how this can reduce printing time for any slicer.
Note that the "Preview function" in Cura is a real good tool for checking the support pattern, -if that the support of critical parts in the object have the needed support.
Also reduced the "initial layer horizontal expansion" by "-0.4 mm" in order to avoid "the elephant feet".
Arachne Beta is much more accurate and better handling the infill due to much better line width control.
So it's much better in so many ways, -but it's still an experimental slicer as we often hear.
You mentioned problem with the ambient temperature, how(?) -to high to low, or variation?
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @UALib3D,
You've got lots of good advice here -from Greg and gr5..
So maybe this approach, thou different, could be considered.. 🙂
I've got an UM S3, so using this printers core 2 need to be considered to really be needed for "this" print.
If you can use the number one core for the hole print, it will print faster and be more efficient.
I'm using Cura 4.10.0.
I did a few changes to your project file, like this;
1) Orientation of the model on the print bed.
2) Deselected the core 2, in order to let core 1 also print the support (the core 2 shall stay in the in the printer).
3) Changed the combing from "all" to "not in skin". (Avoiding "visible" lines in print).
4) Support placement from "everywhere" to "only touching build plate".
5) Changed "build plate adhesion" from "brim" to "skirt". (I do not need brim, -and it create extra work to remove)
Nothing else changed in the project file.
Here is the changed file:
UM3_257876567_Supporttest_mod.3mf
Here's how it looks on the bed.:
Here it is, print time 1 hour and 27 minutes.
This is just the way I would do it, -but think Greg's way of doing this might be faster.
I'll think you have some options now..
Good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @broseph,
if you move the lift switch by hand, is there any noise then?
A small video would help allot in identifying this problem.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @taikonaught,
This mean that your last firmware was made for an UM2E.
This is an easy fix to do, as the only different between thous two is the Z height.
A standard UM2 use Z (number of full height) = 200 (and the E version have Z=400).
To change just this parameter, do as follows:
Send cmd: M92 Z200.00 (This will change the height to 200 full step)
Then send cmd: M500 (This save this setting into EEprom)
Using M502 will put back all factory default setting to EEpeom.
Using M501 will read EEprom setting for you to see.
Using M503 will read current memory setting for you to see.
Using M502 will always bring back the last "updated firmware setting"-
For a permanent good factory default setting, you'll need to upgrade firmware again with the correct UM2 version printer you have.
So a few important questions, are your printer upgraded or is it a plain standard UM2?
A standard UM2 have a black feeder unit on the back and you cannot change the nozzle size, as it is a fixed 0.4 mm nozzle.
Right?
The easiest way of fixing this for you is to download a "new" firmware for your printer from Cura, but be sure to select the correct version of the UM2 you have -and all should be good!
If the original problem still persist, we'll make a log file to have a better idea of what's going on.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @taikonaught,
Hmm, well you might try to restore to default factory setting, as you suggested in here -may by you've already done it?
If not, you just send the cmd: M502 -then save the factory setting by using cmd: M500.
It should also be possible starting a SD card logging file.
As done here; from the implemented G code used in UM2.1 firmware (https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware)
M928 - Start SD logging, i.e. all commands output is written to the specified file (M928 filename.g) - ended by M29
I've never done this before, but should work.
Let's see if this give us something..
Torgeir
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Hi @taikonaught,
Do you print from the SD card on the printer?
As you've managed to print a small cube without this fail, -what media did you print from?
Was this an old file (the small cube) on the same SD card?
By some reason the printing process just jump back to an invalid line -and this is a fatal error that stopped the printing.
Just a shot..
Torgeir
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11 hours ago, taikonaught said:
This one came up:
SerialException: write failed: [Errno 5] Input/output error
Does that shed any light on the problem?
Thanks and sorry!
Well, -when you renewed the firmware, one of the changes was increasing the baud rate up to 250000 from before 115000.
Under this statement there was a note:
"The default baudrate is 250000. This baudrate has less jitter and hence errors than the usual 115200 baud, but is less supported by drivers and host-environments."
Your problem started before firmware upgrade, right.
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It looks like this error can trigger different "false" errors, so not an easy one..
If the interrupt level for this error is set to too high priority, it might stop some processing that's make the printer go to "time out" and stopping the printing process..
Something strange is happening for sure..
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @taikonaught,
This was not that easy..
So I went back to your first mail, -in here there is a gcode that does not "exist".. M108 -not used in Marlin (UM2).
So I've dig a little around and found that this command is something that's added by Octoprint(?).
Have a look at this from "Github -/gcode/issues":
https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/1009
If deselecting this gcode "cmd" in Octoprint help, no idea, but maybe worth a try?
Torgeir
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Hi @taikonaught,
Forgot to slice the files, but here they are:
Done with Cura 4.9.1 (fix): Selected res. "Fine 0.1" with Added changes; Skirt and combing mode set to "not in skin".
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @taikonaught,
Aha, -think the "Heated Build Volume" is enabled for UM2 in Cura.
Look in the printer setting and verify this setting is not enabled.
Just like this:
If we're lucky, this may work..
Thanks
Torgeir
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Sure I'll know, this one have a hexagonal screw as an Ollson heat block.
The original UM2 have no hexagon screw and is just round without the hexagon and you have to change the complete heat block when changing to another nozzle size.
Also, I have an UM2E that's upgraded to the + version.
Torgeir
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Hi,
Oh., this nozzle is much bigger that a 0.4 mm nozzle, also this looks like an Olsson block as it can be removed..
But, before trying to remove it, heat it up to about 130 deg., C, then loosen the nozzle.
This nozzle looks way to big, so I'll guess this is the problem.
Here is a zoomed picture of the nozzle:
Torgeir.
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There is just another thing to mention here, if the nozzle have been printing very much, the diameter will increase and feeding pressure decrease.. Not a good condition in order to have a good quality print.
I noticed that your infill line is quite wide, that's make me wonder.
Edit:
If the nozzle is too wide versus normal size, the effect will be under extrusion as the nozzle is not according to specs,, so in such situation it is not the feeding system to blame.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Speckles,
Great, this is "just" a feeding problem, -your feeding system may suffer for too high resistance.
You'll see the same tendency in this feeding test, under extrusion with constant speed is creating climbing lines that is separated. This is caused by the slow feeding of filament.
a)
If the "hot end" cooling fan (the aft fan) is not working properly, the heat may climb up into the "normally" cold part of the extruder head. The filament become some soft and this make additional drag creating less filament feed..
b)
The heat coupler above the heat block start deforming creating decreased diameter that will give more drag and less filament feeding. So if your aft cooling fan is working ok., this coupler might be the problem.
c)
The feeder can also create under extrusion, -but in this case I'll think the feeder is ok..
In your case, I'll think the problem is in the extruder, so just check a) and b).
Lets see how this go.
Good luck
Torgeir
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Hi @Speckles,
the flow test for an UM2 series is here (a gcode file only for UM2 type printers):
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2
Any of the UM2 series printer in good condition should be able to print this object.
It start printing like this:
3mm³/s = 75mm/s
4mm³/s = 100mm/s
5mm³ = 125mm/s
6mm³ = 150mm/s
7mm³ = 175mm/s
8mm³ = 200mm/s
9mm³ = 225mm/s
10mm³ = 250mm/s
If your printer can do this print, it is ok...
Lets see how this goes.
Torgeir
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Hi @Umo_Alex,
The flat should be up!
If you connect the main without connecting to the printer, the green light should turn on without any noise.
Only connect it to the printer when the printer switch is off, -and yes there should be a steady green light before switching the printer on. If anything happen you should immediately turn the printer off..
If it makes noise when connected to your printer, -your main board is most probably faulty somehow..
"Normally", this power supply will survive a short, so if it still turns on the green light it might be ok.
However, you'll need to find out what is shorting the power input when switching power on.
Torgeir
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Hi @taikonaught,
I'm sorry to see that you've had this problem for so long.
I wonder why is there no "valid" error code as we see it on the LCD display to be seen on Octoprint?
An UM2 have just a few errors that will stop the printer with a given message:
We have temp probe error, heater error and the three stop switches (X,Y and Z), if my memory serve me right..
In your case I'll think it's either a temp sensor/heater head error, or a temp sensor/heat bed error.
If the temperature drop too much offset during print the printer report temp error, also if the temp sensor have an intermittent connection the same is reported and the printing stop due to this error.
In the LCD display you're asked to go to an Ultimaker web address for guide.
I'm not sure if any of this is reported to Octoprint.
You might also try to use blue tape on bed without using heat on the bed, this in order to eliminate the heat bed problem.
Although, a direct probe intermittent wiring break might still stop the printer.
You may also try to let the printer print without filament (use say 180 deg. C for head), start printing without filament and bed a little offset down. In this situation, the head should easily keep the temperature steady.
Also, this will show if this error have something to do with the height..
Just something to try.
I've also been looking a little to the OLED wiring, but we may wait a little with this.
Good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Speckles,
This is indeed the most "strange kind" of infill problem I've ever seen.
I've magnified this infill and here is a little more close up.
Your first picture:
The second picture:
This picture is a little blurry, but we can see the same type op infill "pattern".
To me it looks like the feeding is oscillating at some high frequency, as it is making this "sloped lines" where it should be a "solid" infill wall.
I'll think this is a strange sort of under extrusion.
When looking at your file (added in here) using Cura 4.9.1 (latest version), we can observe how the nozzle will build up your model. The interesting thing is that the infill lines just have two point for each line and move relatively fast printing those lines. However, the walls have much more point (making a curved line) and move at much slower speed.
You could test you "quick print" model with much lower infill speed (say 10 mm/sec), just to see if the infill lines go toward normal.
Another test would be to make the flow test, testing your printers flow up to 10 cubic millimeter/sec!
If your printer have filament flow problems, this test will tell.
Could be very interesting to see if slower infill speed make it better?
And, yes I've an UM2E+
Lets see what happen?
Thanks
Torgeir
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Nur noch eine Sache zu überprüfen, aber vielleicht ist es schon erledigt?
Wenn die Stromeinstellung für die Z-Achse zu niedrig eingestellt ist, kann / wird sich der Drucker genau so verhalten, wie er es jetzt tut.
Nur um zu erwähnen.
Viel Glück
Torgeir
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Das ganze Geräusch hier wird vom Schrittmotor erzeugt, der aufgrund zu hoher Reibung Schritt verliert!
Ich kann sehen, dass die Z-Welle gut gefettet ist, aber sind die beiden 12 mm-Stützstangen auch gut geschmiert?
Sie sollten die Z-Achse leicht mit der Hand drehen können, verwenden Sie dazu einen sauberen Baumwolllappen. Die Welle sollte sich über die gesamten 360 Grad leicht drehen lassen, ohne dass mehr Drehmoment erforderlich ist. Drehung.
Wenn Sie während dieser Drehung einen veränderlichen Widerstand spüren, könnte die Trapezgewindemutter das Problem sein.
(Die Trapezgewindemutter von Ultimaker hat P/N: 1187)
Die Ultimaker-Montageanleitung finden Sie hier:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf
Lass uns von hier anfangen..
Viel Glück
Vielen Dank
Torgeir
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Ciao EmilianoA2,
Benvenuto qui. Sembra che uno degli assi, X o Y ad un certo punto si sfalsa in una direzione. Per dare un'occhiata più da vicino a questo errore, avremo bisogno di conoscere l'orientamento dell'oggetto sul letto. Sapendo questo ci dirà quale asse fornisce questo offset e la direzione dell'offset.
Quindi si prega di avvisare la direzione dell'oggetto quando si guarda nella stampante durante la stampa. Inoltre, una delle stampe fallite è iniziata molto presto nella stampa e l'altra è fallita "più vicino" alla fine.
Come hai già fatto qualche indagine con questo problema, lubrificando gli assi in modo da ridurre l'eventuale attrito in eccesso sugli alberi. Anche le pulegge sono ritorte ad eccezione delle pulegge montate sui motori passo passo X e Y.
È possibile rimuovere i motori passo passo rimuovendo le quattro viti che fissano lo stepper situato all'esterno della stampante. Assicurati di tenere fermo il motore passo-passo quando rimuovi le viti. Queste viti mantengono la tensione anche per entrambe le cinghie corte e vengono allentate quando le cinghie devono essere strette. Notare l'orientamento del distanziatore in plastica nera per il motore passo-passo, poiché anche i cavi di collegamento devono essere tenuti in posizione.
Questa procedura darà accesso alle pulegge con due viti esagonali.
Qui troverai il manuale di montaggio per UM2:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf
Se stringere le viti di fermo non aiuta, ci sono anche altri problemi che possono creare quell'offset.
Vediamo come va.
In bocca al lupo.
Grazie
Torgeir
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Hi @Speckles,
Hmm, maybe the Z end stop screw (installed on the heat bed at the right side of the Z axe screw) is out of adjustment after removal of the magnetic build plate somehow?
If you lift up the bed, you should see this screw (under the bed, on the right side of the rotating Z axe) going through the bed about sticking about 15 mm down under the bed.
This screw will hit the Z stop switch (located under the printer) and is actually making the low limit of the Z axis.
When you go to the maintenance menu and want to move the bed up, the bed will first move toward the stop in order to "synchronize" the bed to the Z axis start position (the low limit), -then it's ready to be moved up. So if the stop switch is missing it will hit the "hard bottom" and make lots of noise..
I'll think this is what happen.
Thanks
Torgeir
Android octoprint
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Hi folks,
I'll think there is a little misunderstanding here, as this question is about powering the phone (only) by using a phone charger. The black cross in the red wire (going to the printer), -meaning the wire is cut here and I'm assuming that the remaining of the red wire toward the printer is insulated/end caped.
His intention is to use the phones data connection wires and the ground only.
So the printers +5VDC at the printers USB port is not used.
Thanks
Torgeir