conny_g

All that makes sense. Was worth a try to get a better price for us for the kit. :-) I want to try dual extrusion very badly :-) That's why I just went ahead and bought the Upgrade Kit on eBay yesterday. It's on it's way and should arrive Wed/Thu. And yes, ready to try something "just-past-beta", the results of foehnsturm and others look very impressive, that's convincing that this is a good solution. And finally if I have the parts for a 2nd feeder/head/etc here I can try other solutions as well with limited effort, like the water cooling one.

Is that alternative model by Tingergnome already publicly available?

Checked with iGo3D on the price of the individual replacement parts (Upgrade Kit minus what's not needed), then it's 10% more expensive than the Upgrade Kit. And even if "many" are bought by a group of Dual Extruder enthusiasts they can't give a better price because they do not have a high margin on it (already expensive from UM). They say. Disappointing.

Nope, Tinkergnome just designed a mounting bracket for the standard UM2+ feeder The mirrored UM3 feeder would be nice if mounted like on the UM3. But most people won't drill big holes into the Dibond back panel I suppose. The one for the rail system?

After researching for some 30mins I don't feel like chasing all the parts individually. Just ordered the UM2+ upgrade kit through Ebay for 440 Euros.

PLA tropft / oozt nicht viel, da gibt's andere Materialien wie PETG, nGen, PC, PC-ABS, die sind da viel zickiger.

Yes, we need that excluding: - housing of head - filament holder (when using one for two rolls like Um3) - mounting tools - extra rods - lubricant - plate clamps - + sticker But I am afraid that might not lower the price much from the 500 Euros....

UM2+ bill of material: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus/blob/master/BOM/BOM%20Ultimaker%202%2B.pdf https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus/tree/master/BOM

... and to answer @Dim3nsioneer as well. We'll see this next week. Some people already have been asked but not everyone might have enough spare time left within the next two weeks. The aim is to have a handfull of people installing it pretty soon. Excited! Should you need another tester... Drive train: does it make sense to simply buy the UM2+ upgrade kit, that has all the parts? (I have a UM2+) Seems a bit expensive, but does it get cheaper buying the parts individually?

Just curious: what will that fresh start be like? Instructions / Instructable how to do this or a kit to buy?

There's also the axle alignment tools, would be good to have that model, too.

Great idea, will follow this thread!

I did not have them, but unmounted and remounted the head recently. So I went ahead, measured and created them myself. Fits nicely. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1828238

You were testing with UM2? What does worse mean, what happened? I tested on my UM3. Grounding all the ROSC pins made some wavy lines appear when printing a circular ring. On the other hand, when I did this hack on my UM2 last year, it really improved Z-banding. That's helpful, thanks. Will try this hack/fix! :-) Implemented the hack this weekend. So far no negative impact in 3D printing. Did not compare systematically if prints are better, so not sure. But my focus there is on the laser exposure, to be tested soon. Definitely the motor sounds are more smooth than before.

Careful with UltiCreatr, they are an unreliable company. Not responding to emails, users report the same, as well missing deliveries. And no posts on their solution for a few months now. I can't trust them any more.

Found the answer: As the Ultimaker 2 main board bases on the Arduino Mega2560 this part is simply identical. The schematics here are almost the same: https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/arduino-mega2560_R3-sch.pdf https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf And for that the firmware is simply the Arduino one for the Atmega16u2 that builds the USB to serial bridge on the Atmega2560: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/DFUProgramming8U2

Hi there, a while ago I did some hacking & measuring with the Ultimaker 2 mainboard and likely due to some sort of USB ground loop between laptop / oscilloscope, and the laptop USB connection to the Ultimaker I destroyed the USB port of the UM mainboard (v2.1.4). At least since then the USB connection to the board does not work any more. Back then I have replaced the board with a new one and the printer works. But I would like to salvage the old board and repair it, if possible. I researched the board schema and obviously the USB connection is built with a Atmega16U2. My assumption would be that the Atmega or it's USB pins are damaged and I would like to exchange the Atmega and reflash it with the firmware. (There is a fuse before the Atmega, but it seems to be ok, unfortunately - it would be easier to change the fuse.) Where can I find the firmware of this Atmega16U2? I know where to find the Marlin firmware (customized that already), but could not find the USB firmware yet? Regards, Conny

You were testing with UM2? What does worse mean, what happened? I tested on my UM3. Grounding all the ROSC pins made some wavy lines appear when printing a circular ring. On the other hand, when I did this hack on my UM2 last year, it really improved Z-banding. That's helpful, thanks. Will try this hack/fix! :-)

Couldn't help but double check what resolution I was running when I discovered the irregularities. Here's an image where I exposed with 1016dpi and the "gap" happens every 8 lines. That would mean the native resolution of 1 step of the UM2 is 2032dpi or 80 steps per mm. And yes, that's what I find in the Marlin firmware: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,282} // default steps per unit for ultimaker2 So... yes, it's every 16 steps, it is that problem.

You were testing with UM2? What does worse mean, what happened?

That's the culprit, R84? (see attached image). That needs to be shortened to ground? The datasheet of the A4988 mentions a problem with skipped steps (page 7/8 ). https://www.pololu.com/file/download/a4988_DMOS_microstepping_driver_with_translator.pdf?file_id=0J450

I have experience soldering. Is there any instructions on the web on this, where to fix the PCB? Researched for a few minutes (web+forum) and could not find any?

Interesting! I am "misusing" the UM2+ as a laser exposure device for PCBs, by mounting a laser on top (now instead) of the 3D print head and by modifying the firmware slightly to give sync pulses on certain movements (adding a parameter to the G-Code that causes the pulling of the fan output high once that path starts) so that the laser control producing 500-1000dpi pixels can by synced with the movements. And I discovered an irregularity pattern in the resulting lines that I assumed to be exactly this, but I thought I had to live with it. Attached a photo of a etched PCB that shows thicker and thinner lines (horizontal lines) and oscillating thickness (vertical lines). That's exactly this thing I suppose. The print head was going horizontally with constant speed in that case, stepping vertically. I think the tracks are in the 5mil range, don't remember exactly. So if the resolution of the printer is 1016 dpi (not perfectly sure), 1 step being one dot, then 5mils are 5 steps. Each track + distance 10 steps. As it happens ca. every 3 tracks that would be some 30 steps (likely 32 if it's connected to the steps). Does that reflect the issue?

What exactly is the decay fix? Is that in the Marlin firmware?

In my view UltiCreatr are not a reliable company. Sent them email, no response. They stopped posting about their product. Strange. And I have read of difficulties other users have with them. I would not recommend to do business with them.