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Everything posted by rhoogenboom

  1. I’m trying now to increase the bottom top layer width to 0.45 from 0.35. Lets see if that makes a difference.
  2. Hi, I'm looking for some pointers as what to check/adjust to get this issue resolved on my prints. These prints are done in PLA, but aren't material specific. Cura versions: this happens with 3.5.0 and the previous 3.4.1. I don't think it's Cura version specific, I've had this issue for a while. This is printed at the default 'fine' setting of 0.1mm and a modified fine setting where initial layer height was decreased and print speed reduced to 35mm/s When I print, the bottom/100% infill layers seem to be dimensionally smaller than the layers higher up which are printed with infill. I even aborted a print, as you can see in the pictures where it shows the dimensional wideness changes at the infill printed layers. Any thoughts or ideas of things I could change to fix this issue? Picture 1 through 4 some examples where the first layers are smaller than the subsequent ones. Picture 5 through 7 you can see it starts when printing infills. Upload of pictures will be after posting as I need to do that from my phone. Cheers, Richard
  3. Alright, so I rebooted the Ext, rebooted the wifi, just went to maintenance and ran the setup from there and it worked. Very puzzled but pleased it is now working.
  4. Hi, I'm looking to getting a few pointers here. I've had a UM3 for over a year now and just unpacked a brand new UM3 Ext. It's now standing where the UM3 stood. The problem I'm facing is that I cannot get the Ext to connect to my wireless. When attempting to connect (after the wizard of wife network and password filled in) it times out after a number of minutes. I had no issues with connecting my UM3. Anything I can try or check? I just rolled out a cable and upgraded to the latest stable firmware on the Ext. The UM3 was already on it. Hits and tips welcome. Regards, Richard
  5. Alright, I've upgrade to the latest firmware. So far so good as I didn't have to walk down to authorize Cura. I did start a job, so I'll have to wait until it finishes before I can see the settings, but I recon it's ok. Thanks!! let's hope 3.6 behaves as it should.
  6. Yes there is actually. You assume that any new firmware is an improvement of the old. I actually downgraded a couple of months ago to this firmware. I had it for months, it worked flawlessly. Then it successor promissed some nice feature. Ok it was kinda nice to be able to switch the light off. (At night my office always looks like there is some alien spaceship landing going on) but the new firmware brought nothing but shitty wifi reception, every time I had to walk downstairs and the USB support was crap too. Unplugging and reinserting did not refresh the filelist on it anymore. So basically the only way to print was: switch the printer off and back on so it would read the USB. And that I think is not acceptable. But back to the problem: if there is no clear cause, there is no guarantee the new firmware solves it or would not experience the same issue in the future,..
  7. Hi, I've just experienced one of the weird things. Last time I changed filament, I thought I was too quick and just fat fingered into the wrong type. Occasionally I twist and press, not just press. So I put on an ABS spool but hit PLA,. I thought. So after it loaded, I thought, I'll reload it. Because otherwise Cura keeps questioning me. Then it hit me: I've lost ABS, actually the only types left are PLA, CPE and Nylon,.. Also change type under material 1 does not show all types anymore. Only the above 3. I restarted the printer (power off) but to no succes. It is only those 3. I have not updated the firmware (unless Cura 2.6 just did that automatically and I didn't notice. I did just upgrade Cura) See pictures. It's on material 1 and the firmware should be: (cannot verify as I am printing now) Any ideas? Regards, Richard
  8. Wenn es nur um die Eckenhaftung geht sehe ich da kein Problem. Einfach den Klebestift nehmen, das läßt sich jederzeit wieder gut entfernen. Not exactly, the dump for extruder 1 is better than the one for extruder 2. Have a close look, they are not exactly the same. Extruder 1: move to 2mm, start extruding, move up slowly then move away a centrimeter and lower. Extruder 2: move to 2mm, start extruding, move up (too slowly), move away and stop extruding. Then move back to dump location, dip lower and up and move away. The moving up too slowly and the return and dip cause the pile to stick to the extruder 9 out of 10 times. Especially with PVA that sequence is a nightmare. I killed half a dozen of jobs because the pile gets pulled into the first layer.
  9. I have seen the same problem. Like you: nothing is done with the 2nd extruder. All things buildplate adhesion supports model etc. Only extruder 1, yet somehow Cura thinks the purge is necessary. I have even had prints where the 2nd extruder gets heated up to 100 degrees standby temp for no usuage. Simplify3D had a tendency to do the same untill I edited the startup script and removed the purge. I guess you could do the same. A bit of googling should get you the change extruder and purge commands. Remove them from the gcode and it should be fine. Still, I agree with you: why would it do it in the first place.
  10. Haven't tested this 100% but if you list the files to print, remove the USB and reinsert it. It does seem to refresh the file list. That would get you beyond having to reboot the printer. Need to see if listting the contents still works after you fininshed a print (from the USB). If it doesnt, then you are just sh*t out of luck :-(
  11. Similar behavior here, my iPhone seems to always want to connect regardless which firmware, but the previous version at least would connect Cura again (after I had to run down and approve the access request). With v3.6 there is no popup on the server to approve and there is just no way to connect it again without having to restart the printer. I'm not a bit fan of continuesly flipping the on/off switch and I found that if you switch on/off developer mode in the maintenance menu, it reboots the server. Probably better on the hardware than the on/off switch.
  12. Exactly the same problem, my previous firmware would notice the USB got inserted. If I would insert and go too quickly to print, it would be empty and then populate with the files on the drive. V3.6 only gets me the go back option, no file/usb notification occuring to refresh the contents.
  13. Hi foehnsturm, You started your post with that you finally got your PVA to stick. What is the trick to that? Ever since the beginning on my UM3 I'm having the problem with getting it to stick to the buildplate. I've tried the Uhu glue stick, 3D lack (sort of hairspray), making the water disolved PVA mixture, printing slower and slower. The one thing I need to double check is the bed levelling, I kind thought it was a bit on the high side which could make the adhesion problematic. What also strikes me as odd is the priming of the PVA extruder at the start. For the non PVA prints coming from either the left of right extruder, the speed and behaviour seems to be exactly the same, for PVA it starts (you hear the motor and see the PVA advancing in the tube but nothing extrudes, then finally it comes out. Now the normal sequence is, start extruding, after 2 secs you got the big bulb, buildplate lowers a bit while still extruding, another 2 secs and the head moves and the extruding stops and the buildplate rises again to start the print. For PVA, first it takes way longer than 3-4 seconds before something extrudes, then it just keeps extruding until this 3-4 times bigger bulb, then the plate lowers much slower than normal, extruding again takes at least twice longer before it stops and moves the head for the first layer. I've had a few times it just pulls that big bulb along to the start point of the first layer. (as it doesn't stick to the plate and has completely encompased the extruder) All that on a stock UM3, with stock UM PVA, with stock settings (and with tinkered settings) Below a pic of my last attempt, as you can see, total chaos.
  14. Yikes I'm not entirely sure if I'm comfortable loosening screws on a 5 days old machine. Way too many things I could screw up. I got a exchange in 14 days policy on the machine, I rather think they techie in the shop can sort that out and just get me one which is sorted. After 3 years doing that, I'm fine (or if it had only costed like 1% of the current price) :-) Thanks!
  15. Yes, I had that too, the second time it is succesful, even without any wiping or so. But the problem is with when it automatically decides to auto level. I cannot use that feature as it basically means at a certain point the printer will auto level, fail and I have to go down to flights of step to acknoledge with a press on the front button. Better to completely disable the auto leveling then. I got a pointer to this message, will give that a try, even though I've been there and almost completely tightened the screws and tried. Maybe I tightened them too much. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35700-auto-level-failure Cheers, Richard
  16. I'm going to give it a try tomorrow. I tried it before, tightening the screws almost completely. When i did that, I did an manual level and after that an auto level, the bed didn't even come close to the nozzles. I see if I can slowly untighten the screws so it comes higher. Hope this will work. Thanks!
  17. Hi Wisar, Is the auto leveling now always working for you? I just has my printer 4 days. Did a firmware upgrade on the setup. I'm on version. I set it up to auto level before each print (really it takes a couple of minutes, less than 1% on some of my 18 hours prints) but it just keeps failing on the first auto level, every time. It was so bad that I basically cannot sent a job over the network, as the printer would fail the leveling and the job would be completed without printing. So I just disabled it for now. I manually leveled the bed at least 10 times now. I tried with the worm wheels in the lowest position, middle and upper. In non of the situations, auto leveling will complete successfully afterwards. Which firmware are you running? Can anyone comment on the real need for auto leveling. @Ultiarjan: did you just level it manually and redo it when needed? Regards, Richard
  18. Hello Wolverine, I'm sorry my French is not good enough that I can write in it, so I will have to do it in English. I think you have the same problem that I have. The Auto Levelling keeps giving me the message: Difference between detected height of both printcores exceeds realistic values. I have done the manual bed levelling now at least 10 times. It does not help, the printer keeps saying it. Can you find out which version of the firmware you are running on the printer. On the printer menu, you have to go to MAINTENANCE -> About this printer or something. I am running firmware version: I have a feeling this is something software related as I have done the manual levelling now so many times, it has to be right.
  19. Hi, I just received my new UM3 this week and I noticed when the print head moved left to right, one of the rear belts is a bit loose. Very loose compared to all the other belts on the machine. This is the belt to the back of the machine, not the one in the front. You can even see when the print head is on the right, that there is an imprint/form in the belt of the right wheel (exactly there where the wheel is when the head is in rest in the left rear corner) Can some comment with an UM3 if their belt is equally loose at that location. Please see pics for details.
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