artistebot

i have one of these coming in a few weeks to try on my 2+. I think it might fit my S3 too. (229mm x 257mm) I am pretty happy w PEI applied to my glass plate, but if the flex makes removal easier and works reliably in a UM...? Not sure if it will play nice w ASA, but I think ABS will be just fine.

That is great, thanks!

Why no "Air Manager" for the S3?

Looking to print w ABS on my S3. What are the recommendations/experience for compatible support materials? Seems to me, to be limited to BVOH or UM Breakaway. Ether removal process is fine w me, just looking for insights, brands, tips etc. Not interested in using HIPS. I may consider a switch to Tough PLA, but I really like the surface quality properties I get with ABS in my UM 2+

Thanks good advice.

Does anyone have experience w Print Cores coming from Shenzhen? Will they work on the UM3, S3, S5?

I am looking to print ABS w my S3. I also have a UM 2+ that has a top cover that has been working very well when printing ABS. I would like one for my S3. UM2 + Extended Frame Top Cover I have found only two covers: FBRC8 ULTIMAKER S3 SAFETY ENCLOSURE KIT 3D JAKE Cover + Door incl. HEPA Filter for the Ultimaker 3 Experiences, suggestions, thoughts? Thanks

Whoo hoo, I finally have my Mark2 upgrade assembled, good work foehnsturm! I converted a used Ultimaker 2 bought for ~$600. I took it apart and drilled the missing feeder holes so the extruder is mounted like the standard UM2+. I printed the parts in ABS and replaced the belts. No issues beyond missing wires to connect the hotend and temp sensors to the expansion board in the MK2 kit . The firmware install went fine, except after the install starting calibration resulted in an error "x/y z-stops broken, ER07 Error" However, after reading here Tinker firmware - UM2+ Extended getting ER07 on home head with 16.12.1 I performed a Factory Reset and fixed the issue. It might be useful to add a note in the OP or web page about this issue? Anyway a couple questions: There is two "Cura Resources" directories on git-hub, one is marked 3.2 so I assume it is specific to Cura 3.2? Will the other "Cura Resources" work in Cura 3.6, or is Cura 3.2 the newest version compatible Mk2? Cheers For reference: Parts printed in eSun Black and White 2.85mm ABS and NinjaFlex TPU 3D Midnight Dual Extrusion Parts Mark 2 board, hotend, extruder kit (note, kit missing wires to connect Heater and temp sensor wire to connect the main board to the Mk2 Board) Missing wire found in my spares (aka thick full copper speaker wire) The base UM2 upgraded to UM2+ using the Extrusion upgrade kit (I wanted the base printer to be original parts) I drilled the 2nd feeder holes Driak 6 pcs Carbide Tip HSS Twist Drill Bit 22mm My goal is to print ABS w BVOH support material. Once I have cura working, I will install an OctoPi, top cover and door, then post pics.

Looking forward to a 2.85mm solution for this mod, as I simply don't like using 1.75 in a bowden setup. Cheers and great work.

Looks great. Could you describe what mods you made to the UM3 head? Pictures? I am wondering if a 3D printed head with 3rd party cores would work? Cheers

only crickets...

The Mark2 instructions has the feeder located on a bracket near the back upper left corner. Why is that? Can the feeder and stepper simply be installed lower, mid back left using the existing holes (or drilling ones if not present) and opposite the first feeder on the mid-right side? I use a top enclosure and it would seem that the feeder/wires/bowden tube would end up arching much higher up above the top frame so might not work well with enclosures?

I documentation recommends HTPLA (GreenTec/PlaTec) but I have no idea what that stuff is or where to get it. Has anyone else used ABS? I am printing out the Mk2 parts in ABS (fully enclosed) one at a time, as I know there is some shrinkage, and wonder if it might cause the magnetic functionality and or fit to fail. Alternatively, maybe PETG is better? I do have some MakerGeek Raptor HTPLA but read that HTPLA warps during the annealing process? Advice and material successes? Prefer to use something more durable than plain PLA. Cheers JH

This is great to see Dave. So starting with a "Ultimaker 2" you upgraded to "2+"and then used a second upgrade kit for the second head? Your success is encouraging. Great to see that Polymax PLA is working I am not sure what to use, I have Makergeeks Raptor PLA, regular PLA, eSun PLA+, eSun PETG, Polymaker Polylite PLA and assorted ABS. I am leaning towards Raptor PLA but wonder about possible shrinkage. Cheers JH

Thank you for your feedback. Your comments reflect my experience with upgrading my Anet A8 ( w MKS Gen 1.4 mainboard, 12864 graphic lcd, TEVO "titan" extruder and "V6" nozzle etc from Aliexpress). The mainboard is fine, the display board has upside down connectors, the nozzle is questionable, the extruder is junk. I think I will use a genuine ultimaker extrusion upgrade. Would you have pictures of the UM2 extension board with connectors that are upside down in comparison to the real one? What material is recommended for printing out the plastic parts, having read the whole thread, there is a mention of HTPLA, but not much else? I am thinking of using ether Esun PETG, Makergeeks Raptor HTPLA or ABS? Thank you for your time and effort JH

I just joined the Ultimaker club with the purchase of a used UM 2+, whoo hoo! The UM joins my Taz 6 (w itworks3d titan head), Cube 3(unlocked), and Anet AM8. I am really interested in adding the MkII upgrade and am impressed and grateful for all the hard work and creativity of this community. I am hoping to hear about anyone using Chinese parts, instead of a genuine UM2+ extrusion upgrade. My experience with the Anet has made me wary of Chinese parts, so using the official upgrade is not out of the question. Regards JH.