Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral
  1. Well, it worked. 40% infill, 45 degree bed temp, and letting the bed cool slowly seems to help. Now there is very little warpage. I may try putting a lid over the print next time it's done. The only thing I need to figure out for this is why the z axis isn't moving down. i've been reading a bit about gcode commands. Maybe i'll try manually setting a g28 or a g0/g1 command in gcode and lower the z-axis. Thanks again for your help.
  2. I think I have found my mistake. M4 S4500 means that the program waits 4500 seconds until it continues, is that right? that would be 75 minutes, I did not want to wait that long 😄 I should have rather taken 10 minutes, so S6000, per step. But why I can not cancel the print, I still do not understand.
  3. Unfortunately, this doesn't quite work either. Although there is no more error, the printer simply stops after the end of printing. The print head cools down, but remains about 5 mm above the print part. The print bed does not lower completely and remains at 45°C, but does not cool down after the specified time. i post times the changed end of the gcode. maybe i took over something wrong. ;TIME_ELAPSED:70029.768827 G1 F1500 E113.80183 ;M140 S0 M107 G91 ;Relative movement G0 F15000 X8.0 Z0.5 E-4.5 ;Wiping+material retraction G0 F10000 Z1.5 E4.5 ;Compensation for the ret
  4. 😄 😄 i think the command M190 R60 does not work with the UM3. as soon as the print is "ready", the UM shows the error ER24. Can I somehow unlock the command? The good thing is that the print bed temperature stays on and then I can theoretically turn it down manually.
  5. Hi, thanks for the code. I took it directly and started a test print. Since the printed parts adhere quite well to the glass plate, I have lowered the print bed temperature to 45°. let's see if this works. If necessary, I still have Printafix there. I will print the form again over night. I will adjust the infill to 40%. The print should be ready tomorrow morning, shortly after I start working. Then I can directly put a microwave cover over the printed part, which I stole from the kitchen. I currently rework the parts only with some sandpaper, but not chemi
  6. Oh yeah i forgot to mention, that i use an Ultimaker 3. so these are the last few lines of the g-code. there is the command 140 in there twice, which one do i need to replace? ;TIME_ELAPSED:10207.757117 G1 F1500 E712.09729 M140 S0 M107 G91 ;Relative movement G0 F15000 X8.0 Z0.5 E-4.5 ;Wiping+material retraction G0 F10000 Z1.5 E4.5 ;Compensation for the retraction G90 ;Disable relative movement M82 ;absolute extrusion mode M104 S0 ;End of Gcode ;SETTING_3 {"extruder_quality": ["[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Ultimaker Tou ;SETTING_3 gh PLA fine 0,2\\ndefinition = ultimaker3\\
  7. thank you for your answer, I will certainly try that. can i adjust the gcode in cura so that the print bed cools down very slowly after printing?
  8. Hi, i could use some help. I try to print an open relatively large mold at work. The problem is that the part is always warping after it is finished and cooled. Its not the usual warping problem at the corners. its more like the part warping in the middle of the part. During printing, everything seems nice and flat, but after printing, when the bed cools, it warps. I have attached a photo where you can see it. The warping is not only at the bottom of the part, it is rather the whole part that is deformed. i think it's because the part is unevenly
  9. you can find it under cooling. For ABS i usually turn if off or just 5%. And i also just print with a speed of 30. But i dont know how the setting for cpe are, never printed with cpe.
  10. This does not really look like a shift on the printed part. Since you print with ABS (which is kind of difficult to print) can you give us some more information about your printing settings? Temperature, speed, etc...
  11. I found this thread. there is pretty much every possible solution explained. Just read through the thread.
  12. its probably because of an clogged nozzle or the filament is grinded down by the feeder. To check if you have a clogged nozzle, you can set the nozzletemp to 200°C for PLA and then push the filament manualy through the nozzle. To check if the filament is grinded down, unload the filament and look for spots that are grinded down. What material did you use and at what temperature/speed do you print?
  13. I also had some problems with the blobs and strings. I think that was because the pva is hygroscopic. We have an oven here at work that is on 24 hours a day at 40 degrees. I stored the pva there over night and tried it again the next day. it worked great then without blobs and strings. Since then i have two pva coils and change the coil every time i start a print. The unused one comes in the oven.
  14. That's a prime tower. The software doesn't need it, but it is advantageous if you print with two materials. You can disable the prime tower under dual extrusion -> enable prime tower.
  15. actually there is a "slice" button. You just have to go to general preferences and deactivate "slice automatically".
  • Create New...