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GregValiant

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Everything posted by GregValiant

  1. Try plugging the printer in first, and then starting Cura. Open a model and slice it, then go to the monitor page. Sometimes it takes a while to load. You can also open a gcode file and then go to the Monitor page. Cura looks for an active USB port when it starts up, but after that it doesn't look. If Cura is still not acknowledging the printer then open the Marketplace, choose Installed and scroll down to "USB Printing". Make sure it is checked. You might have to restart Cura if it was not checked. Then try the above again. There are currently definite downsides to printing over the USB. Prints can stop at any point for no apparent reason and you will need to click on the button to resume the print. Printing via the SD card is much more reliable. Remote printing using Octoprint/Raspberry PI is also much preffered.
  2. I missed this because it's in the Netherlands section. @Smithy can move this to the regular Cura section. Please post the gcode file here so it can be examined. It may be that you have the infill speed set higher than your regular print speed.
  3. There are a couple of little used Gcode commands that will cause that (M24, M32) but they aren't there. I think it must be a firmware problem in that one machine. There are a couple of things you can try. In your End-Gcode in the Cura machine settings for your printer add three lines at the end: M29 ;stops the printer from writing recovery information to the SD BIN file. M22 ;Releases the SD card (like an eject command on a PC). M21 ;Re-initialize the SD card (like when you plug it into a PC) so it can be read again by the printer. Alternatively you can try adding M0 to the end of your End-Gcode. That will cause the printer to at least pause. You could then restart it with a button click and then abort it really fast from the LCD, or optionally just pull the SD card out at your leisure.
  4. See, you've rediscovered Caveman Programming for gcode. You get to graduate to Gcode Programming 101. Looking through what you have there you can see that after the M300 you are turning off the heaters and fan and disabling the steppers. Disabling the steppers is a bad thing because they lose their position (you will see the XY on the screen start flashing). If you disable steppers, you need to have a G28 to home the printer so it knows where it's at. That is also a bad thing. The switches on the axis are crap and aren't very repeatable for positions. They are good enough when used once per print, but if you home a second time during a print you can get a layer shift of .5mm because of the switch inaccuracies. You are also printing the purge line for the second print. Not good. Since your print is only 7.2mm tall it works, but what if it was 30mm tall? Crash. And the second print can't have a brim or skirt either. So look through the code and see what you can throw out. You can start with the M140 S0 line and M107 line that are right after the M300. Throw out the lines that turn off the heaters and disable the steppers. Throw out the purge lines. What you end up with is mean and lean, straight and to the point. Yes, you absolutely need the G92 E404.xxx line to sync the extruder back into what will follow. You will also need to remember to move in the Z to get above a print before you try to move in the XY. That will avoid crashes. Regarding the blob - What you really need is another part on the build plate. A part that always prints first so your hot end has a place to leave a blob before it goes to work on the real parts. Maybe a part floating off the build plate higher than your real parts so it needs support, and Cura will always print support first. The blob ends up on the support. Kind of a purge tower.
  5. The printers aren't sophisticated enough to tell you there is a problem with the card. They just start doing weird things and then you have to scratch your head and wonder what the heck is going on. Congrats. Are you planning on gluing that mess together? What I do is put matching 2.2m holes into each part about 3mm deep. When I assemble the parts there are matching locating holes. I cut pieces of filament and glue them into the holes in one part, then the mating part knows where to locate. It gives a little more strength as well.
  6. So you got the Pause at Height to work? Or did you build your own workaround?
  7. So is she a stewardess? Cuz she was kinda floating around in the air up there. I tipped the head forward about 20°. It isn't flat on the build plate like that and requires additional support. I thought the finish might be better though.
  8. Right click on the build plate and select all models. Then on the left toolbar select the top tool (the movement tool) and make the "Z" 0. She should drop to the build plate.
  9. "I used to be a chef, chefs do normally not need any programming skills....". I beg to differ. You had to flip over the little glass thingy with the sand in it to program it for 3 minutes. I would consider that analog programming. The oven controller had to be programmed for temperature and start time/end time. That's digital programming. I think you're selling yourself short. The support blockers can be used as mesh modifiers. Drag one over, resize it, set it to "Cutting Mesh" and enter the appropriate settings to keep anything in the overlap from printing. Typically setting the Wall Thickness, Top Layers, Bottom Layers, and Infill Density to zero for the overlap will do the trick.
  10. In your screen shot of the printer, you can see that the red/blue/yellow origin icon of the printer is in the center of the build area. When the benchy is sliced where it is sitting in the image, the gcode will contain negative X values. But the printer origin is really in the left front corner. When the gcode comes into the printer with the negative values, it can't get to them because they are off the build plate and so there is an error. In Cura, click on your printer, then Manage Printers / Machine Settings and in the dialog de-select "Origin at Center". So some basic questions: 1. Is printer origin the same as model xyz = 0,0,0? No. The printer origin should be left front corner. The model origin is the "center of geometry" of the model. 3. In other words, how is printer xyz origin related to model xyz coordinates? They aren't. Cura will bring in a model with the local 0,0,0 at center of geometry and place it on the build plate at the mid point of the build plate (if it can). The mid point is determined by the size of the build plate you have entered in Cura (in Machine Settings). You can use the grips to move the model anywhere you want. Now, for some things (like model placement) Cura will consider the mid point as 0,0,0 but that is a local relative origin. The real origin, and what determines the gcode numbers, remains at the left front corner. To make it more confusing, when "Automatically drop models on the build surface" is selected then Cura uses the XY of the model center of geometry, and the intersection of those planes with the lowest "Z" of the model. Usually, the lowest point is a plane, but it doesn't have to be.
  11. I think what is happening is that Cura is calculating based on 2 wall loops, and there is no "Top" or "Bottom" in that area. If I change it to a single wall, then the top and bottom show up and the upper portion is supported with a regular interface. So yes on using the support blocker to modify that joint with 100% infill (or more walls). Would it be possible to add a chamfer at that joint? Even a small chamfer is better than none and would cause more plastic to be put in the joint. You would still need the support blocker though.
  12. A question of scale then. Are you printing 2 models or a single model with a Pause at Height to change color?
  13. The beveled edge may be getting lost due to the layer height setting. At a .25 layer height it would only be 2 layers tall. As gr5 says, post a 3mf file. At the least post the model file (STL or OBJ). As a retired Fire Fighter/ Fire Investigator / draftsman / forensic engineer / ski patroller / lifeguard / CNC programmer / Mechanical Engineer / Pirate, I have some interest.
  14. I used 4.8 and it she looks to have sliced correctly. Where did you find a flat area? BTW it looks better with adaptive layers on. This is with adaptive turned off.)
  15. Same thing. The problem is not in the Gcode. Have you tried re-formatting that memory card? Checked it for sector errors? The file is still huge and may be getting written to that card in areas that aren't accessed by your smaller files.
  16. 1950's at MIT where it was developed to make machines move. I'm not that old, but my first college programming class was with analog computers. Removed.
  17. From a 70 year old who was around when Gcode was discovered in a bar near MIT.
  18. Yes, it's all about the TFT screen. If you have one then M0 and M1 and M117 don't work because they all send messages to the display. I just went over to the Marlin site and put in a "non-bug bug report". I don't know if they will have anything to say because it certainly looks like a Creality issue. Maybe they are aware of it though.
  19. I don't think there is anyplace for a message to fit on that screen. It should go in the top line where it would say "printing" or "Ender 3 Ready" or something. But when sending an M117 (that should send a message to display on the LCD) nothing happens. M0 sends a message to the display also. It sends "Click to Continue", but that isn't accepted by the mainboard because it can't display it. I think it's throwing out the whole command. Definitely sounds like a Creality thing to me. File on File printing. This is something I know quite a bit about but that I'm too lazy to explain. Instead, you can use the Pause function of the LCD. Unfortunately, the heaters go off when you use it so there will be a wait before it starts up again and you will have to hand prime the hot end until the color changes. It requires some practice.
  20. You can open the Cura 3mf file I posted and just change the printer to your own. Then slice it. The supports will show up.
  21. I've just had a thought... What type of display does your printer have? Post a picture with the machine turned on if you aren't sure.
  22. "Is it crealities firmware or the mother board they are useing or what." Now you are asking good questions. Creality is very hard to get hold of and even harder to get information out of. Their sales have outstripped their production of motherboards and it looks like they were grabbing whatever came to hand first. They don't tell anyone that of course. My gut feeling is that it's the combination of motherboard and display driver for some things (like M0 and M117). The firmware works on certain motherboards but is sketchy on others. Updating firmware can be easy or extremely frustrating. I avoid it like the plague.
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