GregValiant

In the Speed section there is a new setting "Flow Equalization Ratio". Try setting that to "0%" and see how it looks.

Better. The StartUp Gcode in that Test file is totally different than what is in the file I have for the 4S. It appears to have been put together for a different slicer. This is supposed to spin the fan but Marlin doesn't support this as a fan command: M126 S[fan_speed_pwm] This line is supposed to heat the bed but the keyword is for a different slicer: M140 S[bed0_temperature] T0 So it isn't any wonder that it isn't working. I'm attaching a Wanhao 4S definition file. Unzip the file and Paste it into: "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.0.0\share\cura\resources\definitions" It should work without any nozzle files, but I have those also if it turns out it needs them. Another file it might need is the "platform" file that is the background picture in Cura. wanhao_d4s.def.zip

I don't know where you got that from. It isn't a Cura file. (** This GCode was generated by ReplicatorG 0040 **) (* using Skeinforge (50) *) (* for a Dual headed The Replicator *) (* on 2022/05/20 12:45:29 (+0300) *) (**** start.gcode for The Replicator, dual head ****) M103 (disable RPM) There are some lines to heat the extruder, but your printer may be getting confused by commands like "M103 Disable RPM". There are other commands where the syntax is odd. I am attaching a gcode created by Cura and for your printer. I took out the models and left the two skirts. One should be printed by T0 and the other by T1. Print the file and see if it works. (I made the X offset 25mm for T1.) A gcode file is just a text file. You can open them with Notepad or some other text editor (do not use a word processor). If you open the Wanhao file and look at it and then open the file you posted you will see that they are totally different. wanhao.gcode

Did you figure this out? In "Preferences | General" under "Viewport Behavior" turn off "Automatically drop models to the build plate".

Post a gcode file and I'll take a look. The M104 lines should be in there though. Can you pre-heat the hot end and bed using the LCD control?

I think it would need to be a feature request over on GitHub. It isn't effective as a per-model setting and so maybe shouldn't be on the list of settings you can pick. If you have played with "Maximum Model Angle" and "Maximum Overhang Hole Area" and aren't seeing what you want then you may have to alter the model so that the areas that require "make overhang printable" do not need it.

"These days a Vesco fairing would cost more than the bike!" Yes they do (at least more than what I paid for the bike). That's why I'm trying to steal one from you. If you increase the number walls instead of the infill you will get the loops instead of the back and forth motion. It would likely be more efficient and maybe easier on the printer. I don't think infill adds very much strength unless you do something like go to 5 or 7% grid infill with the Infill Line Multiplier set to 3. Then it's like a brick but there is a definite hit to print time. Regarding the prints - I know when I design things for FDM I take care to insure they are printable. Sometimes that means breaking large parts down into components and gluing them together. Fortunately, cyano-acrylic super glue works really well as a bonding agent for both PLA and PETG. Another plus is that holes turn out right where you put them. I use 2.0mm holes as locators and drop short pieces of filament into them as locating pins, then assemble to the mating part. It's really accurate. Another trick is to add chamfers to overhangs so they don't require supports.

Zooming in to image #2 it looks like some under-extrusion is going on every few layers. That will make for weak parts. Outside to Inside is the new default in 5.0. I don't like it and it's really not good for overhangs. Change the Wall Order to Inside to Outside. Until you do that you really won't know how the overhangs will work out. The problem at the ribs may be some sloppiness in the mechanicals. It's a big printer and the print head won't stop on a dime. It wouldn't take a lot of over-shoot to affect the outside finish. Another clue there is that the finish in one direction is OK but when the print head is going the other way the layer stacking is a little inconsistent. You mentioned "UV soon". Cura doesn't support additional axes. You may have to make other adjustments. The IDEX printers that do work with Cura (like Raise3D) all seem to have commands that go in the StartUp Gcode and then the printer-processor decides how to handle the calculations (normal, duplicate, mirror). In those cases Cura works. In others (like with U and V) you will need to find out. And for that bit of advice you owe me a Vesco Rabid Transit fairing to fit a 1978 Honda GL1000 with a 7" headlight. If you want to throw in the lowers I won't complain. Good luck with this.

If it didn't come with documentation telling you the offset then you will have to figure it out. There are Offset Calibration shapes available. Have you checked with a Wanhao users group like maybe on Reddit? This has to have come up before. To get it in the ballpark you can probably start by just measuring the distance between the nozzles. Measuring the Y offset is going to be tougher and there might be a Z offset as well.

It would be helpful if you would include a project file that shows what you are talking about. On the models I tried it on it looked OK.

If the printer has two separate extruders that are feeding two separate hot ends that each have their own nozzle then there will be an offset between the nozzles. That's what that setting is for. If the printer has a 2-in-1-out hot end then there is no offset since both extruders share the same nozzle. When that is the case you need to load the Printer Settings plugin from the Marketplace. In those Printer Settings are "Extruders Share Heater" and "Extruders Share Nozzle" and those would need to be checked. That way when there is a tool change from like T0 to T1 Cura will not lower the temperature of T0 to the standby temperature.

A picture or two would go a long ways here.

Have you gone to Manage Printers, Machine Settings, Number of Extruders and set it to 2? Your screen should look something like this...

Aw c'mon @geert_2, this is Model A. When he gets to Model L it will have slots to hold the single edge razor blades. That's what he'll use for the last hole.

That looks like some over-extrusion on very short lines. The longer ones look OK. There is a new setting called "Flow Equalization Ratio" in the Speed settings. I know you probably don't feel much like experimenting, but setting that to 0% might make a difference. I have seen some of that over-extrusion on very short lines (like with quick dots in a corner) so maybe there is an issue that 5.0 is having. @nallath might have an idea(?) If you could share a Project File it would help. If you don't want to share that model then load another that may show the same problem.

And increasing the "Initial Layer Flow" is another option. I agree with @Gero that it's an adhesion problem rather than an "order" problem. I print a lot of parts for assemblies and I use 2mm holes (and pieces of filament) to locate the parts at assembly. I haven't had a problem with PLA (on a clean bed) or with PETG (using hairspray to aid the adhesion).

Not all printers or power supplies can take the power load of the bed and hot end heating at the same time. In many cases that power passes through the mainboard. It's possible it could lead to situations like this that occurred with my Ender 3 Pro. The cause was high resistance heating brought on by shrinkage of the tinned ends of the main 24v power leads. That was caused by the constant heating and cooling of the soldered ends of the wire that were constrained by the brass parts of the connector on the mainboard and THAT was caused by the high power requirements of the hot end and bed. It is safer to allow the startup load of one of the units to complete before adding in the startup load of the other unit. That being said, it is a simple change to the StartUp Gcode to get both to heat at the same time. If you add the heating to your StartUp Gcode using "replacement patterns" then Cura doesn't add heating before the StartUp Gcode. These three lines heat both units at the same time: M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start to heat the hot end M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;heat the bed and wait for it M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for the hot end just in case it didn't reach the set point This is one way to do it for an ABL system: M104 S150 ; heat the hot end below ooze temperature M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;heat the bed and wait for it M109 S150 ;wait for the hot end just in case G28 ;Auto-Home all axes G29 ;ABL command whatever it is M420 ;maybe this is required for the ABL G1 Z5 F1800 ;get up off the bed (normally used for cats) G1 X0 Y0 F3000 ;move to the corner to ooze M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;finish heating the hot end and wait for it. I recently added these two power units to my printer. Now the mainboard just sends a signal to them and the power goes through these instead of through the mainboard. The one on the right is the bed and under the Y beam is the one for the hot end. The hot end is PWM but the bed is bang-bang like a regular thermostat. Removing the cycling power surge of the bed from the mainboard can't hurt either. I picked these up on E-Bay.

You need to get with the author of that plugin and find out why it isn't working with 4.13.1. You may have to go back to a 2020 version of Cura. It looks like his last update was April of last year. The alternative is to do it right and calibrate the frame of your printer so everything is square. The only way to print skewed parts on purpose is to twist an axis out of square. The Y axis in particular can run at an angle to the X (the screws to adjust it are on the bottom) or at an angle to the Z (there are 4 screws on either end of the main cross beam that are below the Z uprights). A carpenters square and a straight edge will show you where the frame is skewed and allow you to loosen some screws and make adjustments.

Preferences/Configure Cura/Automatically drop models to build plate...turn it off then you can move the models in the Z.

That model has a lot of problems. Repairing the model causes your new holes to close up. You need to go back to blender and clean up the edges of your cuts. Here is a report on the errors: --> 93 Naked edges (?) --> 0 Planar holes (?) --> 2 Non-planar holes (?) --> 0 Non-manifold edges (?) --> 0 Inverted faces (?) --> 0 Degenerate faces (?) --> 0 Duplicate faces (?) --> 0 Disjoint shells (?) It appears that all along the edges where you made the cuts the seams are open. Cura can't figure out where the outside ends and where the inside starts.

@Super_paulie a picture or a project file sure would help. Most of the changes in 5.0 are in regards to the walls and dialog boxes. There are some new settings that could be carrying over to the skins.

#1. Put it together correctly. Each axis must be exactly perpendicular to the others. Use a carpenters tri-square and a decent caliper to measure and adjust the frame. Adjust the trolley wheels. You should just be able to turn them with your fingers. There should be no wobbles in the hot end carriage, the bed, or the X beam. All the screws everywhere need to be checked to make sure they are tight. Do not assume that because some parts were assembled at the factory, that they were assembled correctly. The X and Y belts should twang like a strings on a bass guitar. #2. Calibrate the E-Steps. Do not get sucked in to using a "single wall calibration cube". They are worse than useless. #3. Set the Home Offsets so prints end up where they should on the build plate. #4. Learn how to print with the machine you purchased. My Ender 3 Pro is in it's third year. It has the 1.1.5 - 8 bit mainboard and I still level with a piece of paper. The prints are consistently of high quality and are excellent dimensionally. #5. Learn to slice in Cura, learn to read some gcode, learn a CAD program so you can design your own stuff. The changes I made were: If it has the stock plastic extruder (the piece mounted on top of the extruder motor) get an aluminum one. The plastic ones ALL develop cracks at the pivot and will quit pushing the plastic. The stock hot end is poor. Consider moving to an all-metal hot end after you learn to print with the one you have. I changed the hot end fan, mainboard fan, and power supply fan to decent ball bearing models. I got rid of the poor layer cooling fan and went with a 5015 ball bearing blower that puts the air stream where it needs to be. The new one actually cools the layers instead of just making noise. My preference was to use a real SD card instead of the little cheesy one that came with the printer so I added a card adapter. If and when you can point to something that your firmware lacks, then you may want to consider changing the firmware or motherboard.

You type faster than I do.

Last thing. Here are two models. The counterbore in the right model was added in CAD because it was easier that way. The Embossed letters on the left model were added in MS 3D Builder because it was easier that way. Ya gotta use the right tool for the job.

"It seems like I should have a separate 3D Model (non STL) which I edit and only export an STL File when I want to feed it to Cura." Exactly correct. It's much easier to alter a model in CAD. Sketchup is notorious for putting in faces that are reversed. I think if you look closely at your object in SketchUp (or Blender) you can see when adjoining faces are different colors. That is usually an indicator that one of them has it's outside facing inside. That will result in an error in Cura that Cura cannot resolve. I believe you can flip a surface in Sketchup so it faces the correct way. I don't know SketchUp so I'm unsure of that. "...the one with dozens of faces is the one MS 3D Builder made out of it while fixing." The surface must not have been flat. I don't know what resolution Cura or SketchUp work to. I do know that internally, AutoCad works to 12 decimal places and displays objects to 8 decimal places. If the ends of those lines are out of whack in the Z at the 8th decimal place then the surface wasn't planar and that would result in what you got there. Another indicator of a non-planar surface in that image is that: The two end vertical lines are each comprised of a single line, the first vertical stripe in from each end is comprised of 3 lines, and the middle vertical stripe is comprised of two lines.