paoletto

Thanks for the suggestion of using heat to ease the process. I'm not sure, though, how to first tighten the heat block. I have left it loose until the very end, because i had to plug the wires before the process, or i couldn't fit them in anymore. So essentially i screwed the nozzle in the heat block just enough so that the heat block would still sit close to the heat break, plugged the wires, then started to screw the nozzle further, while keeping the heat block aligned. At the end i tighten the heat block.

so i managed to replace the nozzle without screwing the heatbreak. It was somehow tight to put it back in, i had to use definitely more force than gr5 showed on the video, but i suppose a new aftermarket nozzle might just be different enough to fit slightly different in the thread. In any case, it seems to print alright now, and the procedure is delicate but not too tragic imo. Worth trying if a nozzle is fucked up.

Thanks for the link, i have indeed ordered one of those, and will follow mighty gr5 instructions to try replacing it. I will probably attempt a cleaning procedure before. I wonder: what's the use of that red o-ring that is also in the pictures of the micro-swiss product?

My PC nozzle is very very worn and is underextruding, i don't think i can keep using it as is, so it's either trying it or throwing it 🙂

Hi, is there anyone producing these nozzles? I have one that seems very worn down, and i'd like trying to replace it before tossing away the printcore.. Edit: i just found https://www.3djake.com/brozzl/hardened-steel-nozzle-for-ultimaker-3-aa has anybody tried it? Edit2: seemingly amazon also sells brass nozzles for UM3.. any feedback?

So swapping cores seem to have solved it.. I guess i shall try to replace the nozzle before thrashing that right PC..

So this is what my printcores look like: the underextruding one is the one that seem a lot more consumed on the bottom

Thanks for the reply, yes i cleaned using PLA, and i in fact cleaned the outside of the nozzle with a blade (!), and it took me a while.. (i was planning to use a brass brush but couldnt find any quickly) I was planning to switch cores and test the other core with this filament/feeder. Will try that and report!

So extruder settings are the same (cloned with Duplicate plugin in cura), filament is also the same (just different color). Right is extruder one, gold, and left is extrude two, orange. What could be the problem? Fucked up printcore? Last print i did i was looking at it while printing, and it seemed that things were good until the top layer. also, bottom layers are perfect. I performed the cleaning procedure with hot/cold pulls very recently. as far as i remember this extruder always had this problem.

Ok. after the 3 failed attempt i turned the part and printed it close to the front. It turned out alright.

Do Ultimakers have a thermal gradient in the build area? If i have an enlongated part to print, and i align it along the Y axis, should i expect warping in the back? (that's what i'm getting, w/o cooling). I tried to lower temperature, print outer walls before inner walls, the situation improved, and i believe the difference between front and back became even more apparent, as the front is now perfect and the back gets some warping, and it looks, also from the side, that there's even some curling of the layers. Side question: might this be also caused/exacerbated by enclosing the printer, like in a non vetilated box or in a bag?

According to the other user, it's the belt that's worn a slightly stretched. I'll try to find a new one and replace, then report 🙂

Thanks! will check that out. Btw, googling for this (UM3 bearing) i found Sounds about the same issue? Edit: and this

I think you might be right, i put my ear next to that shaft (the one the short belt is pulling) and i think there is where the noise come from.. But if that's the case, it shouldn't be very serious, should it? Usually worn bearing are just a bit noisy. Or could this be what is affecting precision? Btw , for losening the y-motor, you mean the 4 screws on the outside?

I made a couple of other vids: https://ufile.io/ijrhb4ur https://ufile.io/3qdj889c I do not see anything out of the ordinary, maybe just the short belt very close to the side of the pulley, i saw below there would be some margin to move it, like half mm, so i could try that. Other than that, the noise always when the white label on the short belt go around the top pulley.. Edit: i managed to move the short belt away from that edge, but the sound persists

So after a session of auscultation, i would put my money on the left stepper motor. Which does not make sense, because on head fast translation movements it does not make such a noise. only when driving slow while printing. And also only in the middle (and the motor spins many times before getting there).

I am now trying again, the clicking still there. I tried to keep my ear on the feeder, and i think i'm quite comfortable saying it does not come from there. It also does not happen when the head is moved up or down when not printing..

Thanks for helping me out! 🙂 So first thing i did was open the feeder, followed instructions from a nice lady on youtube, worked out smoothly, the feeder however wasnt even that dirty. Anyway, i hoovered it, and mounted it back. Next i checked the rails, and one thing i notice is that when i slide the head by hand, laterally (x direction) it feels very uniform, while along the y (back to front) is rather uneven resistance. In particular, in around the area where the clicking happens, it seems the head moves looser (faster). Can this be a stepper motor problem? I inspected the gears and belts and i see no problems there..

Thank you Torgeir for your input, i will look into this. However, i would like to point out that this noise is apparent mostly in just one part of the front-to-back swipe, and it doesn't happen below or above. If i pay attention, it also happens around the same y position when the head is printing gyroid infill so wiggling left and right..

It started recently, it happens when the head move along the front to back axis. It happens around a specific position (see https://ufile.io/y60q1agm , roughly in the middle ), and more prominently when the head goes toward the back. Is this something known? I tried to lube the rails today, but it did not help for this issue. video.zip

Hi so i've been successfully printing (pretty much since print 1) with my ultimaker, quite intensly for a couple of weeks. Then i stopped using for a while, simply unplugged (with filament left in), and parked. Today, after a bit (4-5 weeks) i switched on again and tried to print. First thing i noticed is a slightly different sound and a somewhat slightly different autocalibration pattern. Then i notice that, while it used to autocalibrate with the (unused) printcore 2, now it uses the first printcore to calibrate. It also produces the print blob differently, making a much larger puddle in the beginning before starting to lower the bed. And this is what i got out of it: https://imgur.com/a/eFAnxUl It never happened to me before to see such corners lifting up. The attempt in the picture was done using layer height 0.32, line width 0.32, print speed 40mm/s, temperature 207c. I'm not sure if there's something i am doing wrong. In the meanwhile i tried to unload the material, take out and in again the printcore1. i managed to get a decent print of a simple part, after, but calibration still done with PC1, and the printer even complained once of too large difference between PC1 and PC2.. Ideas?

Ok i was trying to set this up, even changed my router which i thought was the problem. UM3 creates the AP, i connect and select the network to use, and then the printer tries to connect to that forever until finally failing. I guess i should just give up and use the wire

I was thinking: what if you output G280, then you output g-code to lower the build plate then you bring it back to the printing position? Or, alternately, what about not sending G280, but emulating it instead?

This does not look pretty. I got an Ultimaker because i expected it to be premium *especially* in support. It does not really seem like it. I want to hope your problem gets fixed, or selling mine will soon became a priority. I don't want to get stuck with such an expensive brick.

Thanks for the useful info! I wish offy cura would at least offer cooling for overlaps among the settings -.-