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ultiarjan

dual Olsson block for easy PLA- ABS switching on Ultimaker2

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FrontPLA-ABS.thumb.jpg.46d3906128374cb17ee38099a1a8fa11.jpg

Triggered by a comment of @dim3nsioneer here on the forum I decided to try the setup of 2 Olsson blocks (@swordriff) in one head, to be able to quickly and safely switch between PLA and ABS, simply by operating separate hot ends and feeders for both materials. This also means you can use an alternative for your PTFE coupler for ABS (for example 3dsolex IPM coupler) but it's also usefull if you just use 2x PTFE, as the one used on ABS, with higher temperatures may get deformed, and will still be ok for ABS but not for PLA. In this test setup I used a standard PTFE + Korneels "spring replacement tube" for PLA, and a IPM coupler for ABS. I'm just beginning using this, and am also relatively inexperienced in using ABS. When printing at 250 celsius, with a closed top and front the temperature of the nozzle not in use will stay at 70 celsius, so no problem for the unused PTFE I guess.

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Hardware

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You need to bassically get all the stuff you would need for a dual extrusion setup. Spare yourself the time to try printing dual extrusion this way, I does not work. Make sure to always detach the unused nozzle, else it will damage your print, this also means you can't do this setup with 2x Ultimaker2 nozzles, you need an Olsson block.

TheStuffYouNeed.thumb.jpg.f61744f64569376bd00cab5461439164.jpg

For the 2th feeder there's a wide range to choose from, most use Robert's, I use my own derivative of this, specially with the ABS temperatures I like my feeder motor outside of my machine.

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-for-ultimaker-2-rail-system

You can order the parts in many places, and you probably have some already as spare part, here's what it will cost if you order at 3dsolex and Ultimaker; For ordering parts at Ultimaker just send an email to support, they will like it if you add the partnumbers as it's easier on their ordermanagement.

boodschappenlijstje.thumb.jpg.829a4085607407fe89ccb16744152365.jpg

PTFE-IPM.thumb.jpg.9ab49c7fec0a80e21603b2871eee6612.jpg

Connectinmg the electronics if fairly simple, if your have an older UM2 like me the board is a bit of a pain to mount again. Also if you have the older model with screws in the connector of the heaters, also check the other screws, mine where a bit loose. For any help have a look at the installation manual; http://tinyurl.com/pg3lkkx

Electronics.thumb.jpg.28ad5341bcba6d951b5ae2b23c38b4eb.jpg

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Firmware

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To make your printer use the 2th hot end and feeder you need to activate them in Marlin, you can do it manually, but I suggest you just use the modified dual-firmware build by @tinkergnome (thanks! I really like your work). Just download the .hex file and use cura to install it (cura 15.04 ; machine/install custom firmware)

For the Ultimaker2 take this one: TinkerGnome-MarlinUltimaker2-dual-15.09.hex  -there's also a "dual" version for the extended-.

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V15.09

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/7436-more-information-during-print?page=9

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slicer : Simplify3D, setting to use the 2th extruder

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In simplify3D you need to set your extruder to Tool 1, and you need to set your temperature identifier to T1, just do it once and save it as a profile. As you use (f.e.) your 2th extruder for ABS only you needed a different profile anyhow.

S3D-extruderTool1.thumb.jpg.8665457aba91963bebc3df0046e14d4a.jpg

S3D-Temperature-T1.jpg.dd0eadef611d6800909d9d15d7564bc9.jpg

Do not forget to also put a T1 in your start code, to make sure the nozzle priming is done with your 2th nozzle.

Here's the code I used:

 

;*** start code ***G28 ; home all axesT1 ; make sure the start code is using the 2th olsson blockG1 X10 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to the frontG92 E0 ; zero the extruded lengthG1 Z30 ; lowerG1 E30 F225 ; purge nozzle with 30mm of filamentG1 X10 Y40 F3000 ; little move to avoid dipping the plastic puddleG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again

 

 

;*** end code ***G28  ; home allM104 S0 ; turn off heatersM140 S0 ; turn off bedM84 ; disable motors

 

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slicer : Cura (Up to 15.04)

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I tested using RepRap(Marlin/Sprinter) set in machine settings, and setting the T1 (to use 2th nozzle) in the start code. If you just add a extra machine in Cura, and rename it to something like "2th nozzle ABS UM2" you only have to select this machine when you want to slice for your 2th nozzle. I used the following start code:  - end code same as above-

 

T1; make sure the start code is using the 2th olsson block;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time};Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density};Print time: {print_time};Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g;Filament cost: {filament_cost}M190 S100 ;bed temperatureM109 S250 ;nozzle temperatureG28 ; home all axesG1 X10 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to the frontG92 E0 ; zero the extruded lengthG1 Z30 ; lowerG1 E30 F225 ; purge nozzle with 30mm of filamentG1 X10 Y40 F3000 ; little move to avoid dipping the plastic puddleG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again

 

DO NOT set the temperature in the "basic" tab of the cura settings (leave this on 0), as this will place the heatup G-code on the first lines of cura's  G-code, before the T1 thats part of the startup code, so this will start heating your 1st nozzle...  you need to place your temperature settings in the start code, after the T1.

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slicer : Cura, all versions UM2 default UltiGcode

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As figured out by @dim3nsioneer you can also just use the default UM2 cura setup, and make a simple change to the G-code in a text editor (like Notepad++) It should also be very simple to automate this in a post processing plugin for New Cura ....

Change the first lines of your code, like this sample

 

;FLAVOR:UltiGCode;TIME:5886;MATERIAL:6009;MATERIAL2:0;Layer count: 336

 

Into this (change the numbers behind ;material/material2, and add a T1 line)

 

;FLAVOR:UltiGCode;TIME:5886;MATERIAL:0;MATERIAL2:6009T1;Layer count: 336

 

Finally... happy printing ...

DuoBowden.thumb.jpg.cd43b650772624899522b191ecb958d3.jpg

FrontPLA-ABS.thumb.jpg.46d3906128374cb17ee38099a1a8fa11.jpg

TheStuffYouNeed.thumb.jpg.f61744f64569376bd00cab5461439164.jpg

boodschappenlijstje.thumb.jpg.829a4085607407fe89ccb16744152365.jpg

PTFE-IPM.thumb.jpg.9ab49c7fec0a80e21603b2871eee6612.jpg

Electronics.thumb.jpg.28ad5341bcba6d951b5ae2b23c38b4eb.jpg

S3D-extruderTool1.thumb.jpg.8665457aba91963bebc3df0046e14d4a.jpg

S3D-Temperature-T1.jpg.dd0eadef611d6800909d9d15d7564bc9.jpg

DuoBowden.thumb.jpg.cd43b650772624899522b191ecb958d3.jpg

Edited by Guest
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Another thing, when you use the right nozzle, when using print one-at-a-time you need to change the machines head dimensions to avoid the head crashing into a part.

The default looks like this, where the shadow is the no-go area.

oneAtATime-original.thumb.jpg.609af22641974c51286292f6082c5f92.jpg

To change this you need to add a new machine, in "new cura beta" it's a bit unpractical, you have to first add a machine by copying and renaming a new json file here:

C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.09.82\resources\machines

In the copy of your machinse file also change the machine name in the file.

Then change these values:

 

"machine_head_with_fans_polygon":       {           "default": [               [                   -40,                   30               ],               [                   -40,                   -10               ],               [                   60,                   -10               ],               [                   60,                   30               ]           ]},

 

into this:

 

"machine_head_with_fans_polygon":       {           "default": [               [                   -60,                   30               ],               [                   -60,                   -10               ],               [                   40,                   -10               ],               [                   40,                   30               ]           ]       },

 

And this should be the result (need to add the new machine first when you open cura again, select the printer with the name you used in the copied json file)

2thNozzleOneAtATime.thumb.jpg.5aaf839f642f22153f21ec282ce8ea77.jpg

In old cura (up to 15.04) you find the values of the "printer head size" in "machine settings".

The visualization does not work ok in old cura so you will not see the change, I did not actually check if it even works at all...

oneAtATime-original.thumb.jpg.609af22641974c51286292f6082c5f92.jpg

2thNozzleOneAtATime.thumb.jpg.5aaf839f642f22153f21ec282ce8ea77.jpg

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2xKorneel.jpg.4f50f1801d018f8f1a37f724eca94955.jpg

Update;

Just replaced the IPM with a PTFE+korneel tube also on the ABS side.

After multiple test prints I could not get it right, constantly a tiny bit of under-extrusion on

the ABS side. At first I though it was the draft of the newly installed room ventilation. After taking the head apart I noticed just a little leak between the block and the

IPM, there was obviously not enough pressure on the IPM, I should have been warned as when I installed it I already found the fit of the IPM in the Hot-end-isolator a bit tight... This was an early test IPM and I don't have another to compare, so for now I'll stick to the PTFE and see how long it will hold with ABS only printing.

I think it's a great idea to have a separate ABS  nozzle & feeder, even without the IPM. The 2x PTFE also makes sense when you print XT on the "hot" hot end. Switching is just so easy...

I know the IPM does not like retractions on other  material, but I wonder if anybody has some

'milage' on one with ABS only? would like to hear your results.

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correction >> think the issue was in the fit into the aluminium block, see below for more info

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2xKorneel.jpg.4f50f1801d018f8f1a37f724eca94955.jpg

Edited by Guest

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When I print with the 2th head, the UM2 does a fairly long retract between the priming and the start off the part.

I've solved this now by using more skirt/brim, but would like to really solve this, and can't find it in the firmware, i'm using tinker 15.09 dual.

Anybody any idea where to find this? @tinkergnome @dim3nsioneer

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Anybody any idea where to find this? @tinkergnome @dim3nsioneer

 

Search for "extruder_swap_retract_length" - it's hardcoded to 16mm in Marlin_main.cpp...

....and can be modified only during printing (Tune -> Retraction -> Extruder change len).

You should be able to modify it during the heatup stage to examine if it makes any difference.

Oh...and it is only used if the gcode contains firmware retractions like this: "G10 S1".

The postfix "S1" triggers the "extruder_swap_retract".

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I've made a little more progress with this setup today.

I had under extrusion issues again with the ABS part of the setup, so I took it all apart again and here's my diagnosis. Interesting for @korneel tube users.

I think I had to little pressure on the PTFE and before on the IPM because I could not feel the pressure properly at installation. 2 points in the hotend cause this:

TightHotEndIsolator.thumb.jpg.d316ce901b8ca2cfe78a1e5081408081.jpg

The hot-end-isolator (original ultimaker part) did not fit easy into the aluminium all the way to the bottom, causing so much friction that you think you put pressure on the spring replacement tube, but it's actually just the hot-end-isolator thats to tight. Simple solution, just make the hole in the aluminium block a tiny bit bigger with a file.

DrillHead.thumb.jpg.dae22b837ab44c99c12b5bb3f271aa1a.jpg

2th issue was the friction you get when moving the block (by turning the hot-end-isolator) due to the screw (holding the sensor and heater) not sitting loosely into the aluminium.

I just drilled the 2 holes out a bit with a 3mm drill. Do this with the aluminium cooling block attached, like in the picture.

So basically I'm back to the IPM, printing with it for an hour or so now and all looks good again...

TightHotEndIsolator.thumb.jpg.d316ce901b8ca2cfe78a1e5081408081.jpg

DrillHead.thumb.jpg.dae22b837ab44c99c12b5bb3f271aa1a.jpg

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The drilling is done to make sure when you rotate the hot-end-isolator (to move the Teflon up, to lock the "korneel spring replacement" in place) you are able to feel how much pressure you put on it.

The screw that holds the heater & pt100, and sticks into the cooling block, gives a little friction, drilling it out makes sure the Olsson block moves up and down very smooth.

I'm still learning a lot about ABS printing. I'm getting good results with Ultimaker ABS at 250 celsius. I think the IPM is not really working all that well, at least not with retractions.

My results with Refill ABC are very poor, this stuff is getting very soft and starts dripping and smearing around the nozzle at low temps, and I can't get any decent layer bonding with it, also not on higher temps.

I would also like to work with higher temp ABS types (f.e. PC ABS), but for this you really need a full metal hotend.

Think the conclusion is that this setup is nice for occasional ABS printing and easy switching, but when you are serious about printing a lot of ABS a dedicated full metal hot-end makes more sense..

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@ultiarjan

I could not resist and made a copy of this approach.

I had a second Olsson block laying around... (i mean ... as a spare part...) :)

...and i got an early christmas gift from @SandervG (resp. Ultimaker) - i found this one recently in the mailbox:

DSCN0514_2.JPG

Thanks again - i really appreciate it - and i think i found a good use for it.

Assembled all parts together:

DSCN0522_2.JPG

As you can see - i also had some use of other community contributions.

Fan shroud by @Labern, print head modification by @Izzy and countless other parts

by @|Robert|. The power of open source!

Now i'm able to test the dual extruder version of the firmware for myself...

69_EmoticonsHDcom.png

I selected the second extruder as primary and made a short test print:

um2_geek_printing_26.png

DSCN0521_2.JPG

Hey - it works!

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..and i got an early christmas gift from @SandervG

 

@tinkergnome you deserve it!  your firmware is the best!

@izzy it's not for dual printing, it's only for use 1 at a time, so there's only one nozzle mounted at the same time, so you can keep one nozzle nice and clean for PLA only and low temps, and the other for XT or ABS at higher temperatures with more risk of killing the PTFE early. For ABS it's still only useful for the types you can print at lower temperatures, else you need a full metal hot end.

Edited by Guest
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Is the ptfe standing up to the higher temperatures ok?

I've just tried some samples from GlobalFSD, including some from TwoBears, BioFila linen .Kai Parthy, bendlay & Laywoo D3 Flex, Reprapper PLA Brass. And a couple of ABSs

The BoiFila Linen is nice, the Silk is only available in 1.75mm.

Kai Parthy were nice too. The Reprapper Brass is brittle on thin walls so I'm not sure at the moment about getting some more as it was a bit messy sticking to the nozzle.

The ABS, 1st time I've tried it was a pain, couldn't get it to stick to the platform, reeding other posts I need to make up some ABS slurry.

I'm having fun typing this to see how far I can get and then watch the iPad on screen keys catch up

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Sure the PTFE you use for higher temps will die faster.... but some believe for ABS the quality of the PTFE is less important than for PLA as it's more slippery. You could also use this setup to easy switch between 2.85 and 1.75 fillament. I'm personally printing ABS with the E3Dv6 atm as I want to be able to print the higher temp variants, printing at 260-270.

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Sure the PTFE you use for higher temps will die faster.... but some believe for ABS the quality of the PTFE is less important than for PLA as it's more slippery....

 

Another example:

I never printed with ABS, but my left PTFE is in use for approx. 400 printing hours at temperatures between 240 and 250°C. It is assisted by an I2K washer and looks like new...

I2K rules!

...and although only one nozzle is usable at a time - i adjusted both to the same height anyway - just for convenience.

(i like it easy and don't want to re-level the buildplate on every change)

It works flawless so far.

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@tinkergnome: You're talking about the combination I2K+DupTef, correct? (not about I2K + TFT = TF2K?)

 

Actually only the "new one" is an I2K + DupTef, the "used one" is I2K + PTFE Coupler (from the Ultimaker shop).

No TF2K yet - but it's a thing to consider... The "DupTef" has disappeared from the 3dSolex shop anyway...

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