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So I am probably going to need to order a replacement glass build plate soon. Little chunks are starting to come out of it. I didn't even know glass could do that. I think it is mainly from being too impatient and removing prints too early.

Anyway, has anybody had extensive experience with other build plate materials?

I don't have any real issues with the glass bed, but sooner or later it is going to break.

For the most part I have printed directly on the glass. I use helper disks to keep corners down, I used a little glue stick when printing XT. And I did use blue tape when printing IGUS. (I have no real desire to ever print ABS).

Here are all of the options I could find:

- Heated Glass

- PEI Tape

- Zebra Plate

- Build Tak

- Blue Tape

- Gecko Tek

- Flex 3D

What ever I do next, I plan to get two of them so that I can quick-swap the build plate.

Edited by Guest

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I have tried BuildTak (only printed PLA on it), and it sticks nicely. I have done a couple of prints on it and it's still in perfect condition.

You have to level the plate slightly higher in order no to squish the first layer (or it can destroy the buildtak).

It's a good product to replace blue tape, you don't have the lines between the tapes and it sticks better to the buildplate.

But if you have a UM2 i would go for a new glass plate, it works pretty nicely for most of materials

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I would also just order a new glass plate.

I have used build tak before, works quite nice but it is not a build plate.

It is a sheet of tape, an alternative to blue tape. You don't necessarily need blue tape on your Ultimaker 2, so why would you use build tak? My point is it could be an alternative for adhesion, but not for the build plate.

Same goes for the blue tape obviously.

I have tried things like gecko tek and flex 3D, not sure if I have tried this exactly.

This can be used as an alternative to the glass plate, but I didn't think it worked better.

The point is you can bend it so your print comes of faster, but I have always worried about how to ensure it became 100% flat again. From my experience adhesion was also not as straight forward.

Don't know about the rest, but if you would ask me I would recommend to use a regular glass plate :)

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I was just looking at the Flecks 3D build plate on KickStarter, but none of the sizes they offer will fit perfectly in the UM2; so I just passed on that. I really liked the idea of having those quick removal inserts, so I can print a widget, take out and let them cool on the side, start on the next one, rinse repeat. Which would be awesome for a shared MakerSpace too, print it up, take out the quick release plate, then the next person can use it.

I'm sure it's all marketing hype, so I'll wait and see on that one. Plus wait for them to have one that exactly fits the UM2.

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I would stick to a glass plate. Can't see why bits should come out of it though, do you use a blade to prise the parts off while they are still warm?

With PLA and Prit-Stick, the models stay on the plate very well at 60C, just wait a bit longer for the plate to cool.

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I would stick to a glass plate. Can't see why bits should come out of it though, do you use a blade to prise the parts off while they are still warm?

With PLA and Prit-Stick, the models stay on the plate very well at 60C, just wait a bit longer for the plate to cool.

 

I had that when i started 3d printing because i used to much glue, and i didn't wait enough to pull the print from the plate. I printed a raspberry pi case and when i pulled it off a small piece of glass came with it... so yes it can happen (i just flipped the plate over and i've been printing with it for more than a year an half now

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I've had to replace a few build plates after chunks of glass came off. It only happened when printing with ColorFabb XT and only on prints with very large bottom layers. The XT sticks well enough to a heated bed with PVA glue that when it cools it can take chunks out of the glass. I've found using a thicker bottom layer helps and not allowing the bed to cool below 35-40C helps prevent damage. I've tried XT with the buildtak and it has similar problems where it sticks too well and damages the buildtak.

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I've had to replace a few build plates after chunks of glass came off. It only happened when printing with ColorFabb XT and only on prints with very large bottom layers. The XT sticks well enough to a heated bed with PVA glue that when it cools it can take chunks out of the glass. I've found using a thicker bottom layer helps and not allowing the bed to cool below 35-40C helps prevent damage. I've tried XT with the buildtak and it has similar problems where it sticks too well and damages the buildtak.

 

Now you got me worried.

/me orders a couple extra build plates before he starts using his XT stash

I'd be curious if one of the non-glass alternative build plates (eg, Zebra Plate) do the same thing, or maybe something like Kapton Tape (which I noticed wasn't on the original list) is a nice alternative to printing directly on the build plate for XT.

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When I have a print which finished halfway through the night, in the morning I can usually just get it off the bed like it was never attached..

 

Same here. My problem is waiting that long.... I am so impatient!

I should have bought a second glass build plate when I bought the UM2.

Also, taking the glass off and on still requires me to "wobble" the build platform more than I would like. I am afraid that it will come out of level. I might actually use the dreaded binder clips to make swapping the glass easier.

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When I have a print which finished halfway through the night, in the morning I can usually just get it off the bed like it was never attached..

 

Same here. My problem is waiting that long.... I am so impatient!

I should have bought a second glass build plate when I bought the UM2.

Also, taking the glass off and on still requires me to "wobble" the build platform more than I would like. I am afraid that it will come out of level. I might actually use the dreaded binder clips to make swapping the glass easier.

 

you could try some silicone pads instead of binder clips.

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Hi, AryaVenu,

fbrc8 is Ultimaker's assembly and support partner in the US. We have official Ultimaker spare parts at fbrc8.com, including the glass plates, and orders ordered before 4pm central time ship out the same day.

 

I have a similar question. Where can I get the glass?

 

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After tried different options I have some suggestions. What I have used are the original UM2 glass plate, borosilicate glass from aliexpress/ebay, zebraplate, as well as coating like PVA-glue and BuildTak.

I see no usable difference from the original glass to the chinese glass, both are uniformly flat. The UM2 glass have however started to chip off more and more, so I will see how much more it will last.

Zebra is great for removal and stickiness, however they are not completely flat and when clamped down by the clips they bend upwards in the middle. When I printed with 0.2 mm layer height in the first layer, the extrusion almost stopped in the center. I was able to do some mitigation by bending the plate downwards before clamping, but I believe that the difference still will remain around 0.05 to 0.10 mm. If that is not a major issue in the print, its stickiness is great I usually use it for smaller and medium sized parts where the full flatness is less critical and I love how just bending them after print pops off the parts.

When using BuildTak on the glassplate I recommend that you cut and remove off where the clips are, because otherwise the clips are becoming loose as the BuildTak adds some height and I had to get replacement, because when switching back to non coated glass it was starting to slide from side to side. BuildTak can really make objects stick so be careful with layer height.

I use pure glass and zebra for PLA, ColorFabb NGen and NinjaFlex, and BuildTak for ABS. For Taulman Nylon and XT I think glass with PVA glue works the best. It also depends on the finishing I want for the underside of the parts, BuildTak makes the best matte finish, while glassplate obviously the best glass finish.

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