ColorFabb HT

[vanias78 0]

Last days tried to print with this high temperature filaments as i need something to can handle my cars temperature without melting. Unfortunatlelly the prints from this material comes out very sensitive and break very easy. Maybe the problem is i use 260C and maybe need more (280c). Does anyone know away to print right with this material or a way to use more than 260 on my ultimaker 2 extended + ?

I print with recomended from colorfabb settings (except temperature use 260 and they need 250-280)

Thank you.

[neotko 1,417]

You might want to look into I2K (3dsolex) and tinkergnome firmware. Google time!

[AreDigg 8]

I print with HT on 265C, but I have used 260C and it wasn't more brittle – but had to print at a slightly slower speed.

To make really tough parts I increase the flow, it really benefits the HT. However increased flow will also sometimes give excess material, so be careful with the adjustments especially if your objects should look good. Also like XT and nGen, material sticking to the nozzle becomes brown and makes ugly spots on light colors. For even tougher parts increasing to 100% infill makes them almost indestructable, and thicker perimeters are also helping.

Even if you print only at 260C I think having the extra i2k beneath the teflon is a must, just remember that for the 2+ models you would need either a spring or a custom part as the part above the teflon is only one size and will not fit with the stock teflon and i2k at the same time.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

You might want to look into I2K (3dsolex) and tinkergnome firmware. Google time!

 

@Tinkergnome firmware does not allow to set the maximum temperature. But you can edit the firmware source according to your needs. I extended the range to 290°C, which leaves my TF2K equipped hotend on the safe side.

Edited July 20, 2016 by Guest

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Some results of a 270°C-250°C overhang test with HT:

I also did a test 280°C-260°C but except more stringing there is no difference. I used 280°C for the first layer and 15% fans.

Bed temperature was at 105°C, which resulted in an adhesion loss on the first print, so I used PVA glue water mix which made it stuck - well - like glued.

Edited July 20, 2016 by Guest

[kvcrf250 1]

Will The HT filament withstand the sun heat ?????

Cheers Kev

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

It has a glass transition temperature of 100°C. So if you don't put it under a lens: yes.

[Oliveros 11]

Hopefully someone will still be around to answer this.

 

How do the layers come out, it's hard to see on the pictures.

 

I noticed Nylon seems very smooth, hows this compared to Nylon?

[Ace1992 0]

I have an ultimaker 2 with a Bondtech upgrade feeder and the olsen block, and I am not an expert, but this is one of the main materials I print with.  In my opinion, once you get the settings where they need to be, it will make some very beautiful and durable parts.  

[Smithy 1,144]

1 hour ago, Ace1992 said:

once you get the settings where they need to be

 

Would you like to share your settings here?

Since there are always problems with the XT and HT filament, this would be very helpful for many users.

[Oliveros 11]

Ace,

 

Is the HT flexible at all? In comparison to PETG and Nylon?

[Smithy 1,144]

Colorfabb HT is like XT or UM CPU or PETG, it is more less the same. The HT has the advantage that it has a higher glass transition temperature, but is more prone to warping compared to XT.

[Oliveros 11]

Okay, so it's as flexible as PETG, I can work with that. 

 

Does it warp below it's HDT or only during printing?

 

I have a heated bed and an enclosed printer with doors to minimize drafts so hopefully that helps.

[Ace1992 0]

Sorry for the late reply.

 

I am still messing with it, but currently I am printing with the following settings:

 

235 degrees hotend

.4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height

110 degrees heated bed (enclosed) I have a 120v heated bed, and I allow it to heat up the chamber for 10-15min before I print

40mm/s print speed on everything (except the first layer, that is just the default)

103% flow of the material

60% cooling

1mm roof on support surfaces

Z direction .15mm distance between the support interface and the part. Z axis is the priority

 

Support material is needed everywhere, because it tends to warp pretty easily if it is not touch anything.  Also, I have noticed that this material is very susceptible to overheating.  If you get it too hot, it will become very brittle.  

 

I am actually going to try to turn down the print temp to 230 tonight, to see what it does.  My last part were really brittle. 

[Ace1992 0]

Preview attachment IMG-5180.jpg

 

 

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2.1 MB

 

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2.3 MB

 

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1.3 MB

 

 

[Ace1992 0]

Here are some sample pictures.  I am still getting some ringing, and to me it looks like they are still printing a little too hot.  That is why I am going to turn it down a bit tonight. 

[Oliveros 11]

I can't see the pictures, are you able to upload them directly to the site?

[Ace1992 0]

[Oliveros 11]

Wow, that does look very similar to Nylon.

 

What is the layer height you are using here?

[Ace1992 0]

Sorry about that.  Can you see them now?

 

As you can see in some of the pictures, there is some noticeable ringing around the holes.  I have been able to eliminate that by cooling the prints down a little.  

 

I started another print last night, and printed at 230, I will take some pictures of that tonight and post them.  

[Ace1992 0]

It is at .1mm

 

[Oliveros 11]

YEs, I did see them. Very nice. How is the smoothness of the surfaces across the layer?

[Ace1992 0]

Its not bad.  I can make PLA smoother, but overall it is pretty smooth.  

[Oliveros 11]

Cool. Well, I got a roll of the clear stuff coming so I'll give it a go.

 

What temp you print at?

Bed temp?

Bed adhesion? (Blue tape, glass, do you use glue?)

Z offset?

 

Thank you.

[Smithy 1,144]

For Colorfabb HT you can use the CPE+ settings for a good starting point.

For bed adhesion you should go with something stronger, like Dimafix, 3DLac or UM adhesion sheets.