SOLVED BuildTak possible on UM3?

[rimb05 3]

I use BuildTak on my UM2+ and love it.  Is it possible to use BuildTak on the UM3?  I wonder if it would interfere with the new capacitive leveling function.  It would seem like adding an extra couple of mm wouldn't make a difference with a capacitive sensor, but I wonder if Ultimaker can answer this officially.

Edited October 22, 2016 by Guest

[IRobertI 438]

Shouldn't be a problem. And as a backup you always have the option to level manually and disable automatic levelling.

[rimb05 3]

Good to hear, thanks.

[STEMedTeacher 13]

Matter Hackers sells a Buildtak sheet setup for the UM3 as an add on to the sale or separate sale just for reference. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits/Ultimaker-3-d-printer

[rimb05 3]

I tested it with my UM3 and it works, but there's an issue when doing the active leveling, as the nozzles would dig into the bed and melt the BuildTak. But I found a solution:

Flip the build plate around when doing the active leveling. Then, after it's done, flip it again. The thickness is the same either way, so it works great.

[Uncle_Victor 0]

Shouldn't be a problem. And as a backup you always have the option to level manually and disable automatic levelling.

 

Have bad experience with disabling automatic leveling.

I have set it to never - did manual leveling (actually did it several times after having problems) and could not get a good print out of the machine (bad adhesion to the build plate) - did once an automatic leveling after the manual one and everthing works fine. I think the firmware keeps track of the results of previous automatic leveling and uses them afterwards even if you disable it.

[IRobertI 438]

Have bad experience with disabling automatic leveling.

I have set it to never - did manual leveling (actually did it several times after having problems) and could not get a good print out of the machine (bad adhesion to the build plate) - did once an automatic leveling after the manual one and everthing works fine. I think the firmware keeps track of the results of previous automatic leveling and uses them afterwards even if you disable it.

I've had the exact opposite experience. Auto-levelling has failed for me many times on a few different printers (printing waaay too close, as in, pushing the bed down with the nozzle close). The last three prints I've done have been with one manual level and then disabling the auto. Those prints have worked fine.

[korneel 174]

so i have the flexplate system, automatic leveling has to be disabled.. errors about the cores being too far apart etc.. disabled automatic leveling and it once again works great.

[korneel 174]

had a chat with Daid today;

if you add the buildtak, you should be good.. please note that the hot end does push a little into the material, and buildtak does not like that..

the flexplate system is something else.. the automatic leveling system uses the aluminium plate, and thanks to the buildtak flexplate system that does not work anymore.. so be carefull

[Ronan 58]

http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping

Same idea as the PVA solution but for ABS/PETG.

Works great.

[RayvenMaker 1]

Is there any way to adjust the auto-leveling's sensitivity (or offset) to compensate for the BuildTak?

[Tomasz_M 3]

Hi!

 

I had the same calibration problem while using BuiltTak FlexPlate on UM3. And yes there is a simple solution for auto-level adjustment. The answer can be found on German-speaking part of this forum:

 

In short words: the table end-stop has to be adjusted.

 

In order to do that you have to poup-up the white cover on the back of the table (with Ultimaker 3  written on it). It is only snapped in, a little bit of force is necessary. Then you will see an allen key screw, which is an end-stop limiter. Unscrew it about 3mm - using washers and tightening it back down is recommended in order for the screw not to change its position.

 

Then run the auto-levelling. For me the auto-level works now with both FlexPlate and plain glass.