Jump to content

BuildTak possible on UM3?


Recommended Posts

Posted (edited) · BuildTak possible on UM3?

I use BuildTak on my UM2+ and love it.  Is it possible to use BuildTak on the UM3?  I wonder if it would interfere with the new capacitive leveling function.  It would seem like adding an extra couple of mm wouldn't make a difference with a capacitive sensor, but I wonder if Ultimaker can answer this officially.

Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · BuildTak possible on UM3?

    I tested it with my UM3 and it works, but there's an issue when doing the active leveling, as the nozzles would dig into the bed and melt the BuildTak. But I found a solution:

    Flip the build plate around when doing the active leveling. Then, after it's done, flip it again. The thickness is the same either way, so it works great.

    • Like 2
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    • 2 weeks later...
    Posted · BuildTak possible on UM3?

    Shouldn't be a problem. And as a backup you always have the option to level manually and disable automatic levelling.

     

    Have bad experience with disabling automatic leveling.

    I have set it to never - did manual leveling (actually did it several times after having problems) and could not get a good print out of the machine (bad adhesion to the build plate) - did once an automatic leveling after the manual one and everthing works fine. I think the firmware keeps track of the results of previous automatic leveling and uses them afterwards even if you disable it.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · BuildTak possible on UM3?

    Have bad experience with disabling automatic leveling.

    I have set it to never - did manual leveling (actually did it several times after having problems) and could not get a good print out of the machine (bad adhesion to the build plate) - did once an automatic leveling after the manual one and everthing works fine. I think the firmware keeps track of the results of previous automatic leveling and uses them afterwards even if you disable it.

    I've had the exact opposite experience. Auto-levelling has failed for me many times on a few different printers (printing waaay too close, as in, pushing the bed down with the nozzle close). The last three prints I've done have been with one manual level and then disabling the auto. Those prints have worked fine.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · BuildTak possible on UM3?

    so i have the flexplate system, automatic leveling has to be disabled.. errors about the cores being too far apart etc.. disabled automatic leveling and it once again works great.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · BuildTak possible on UM3?

    had a chat with Daid today;

    if you add the buildtak, you should be good.. please note that the hot end does push a little into the material, and buildtak does not like that..

    the flexplate system is something else.. the automatic leveling system uses the aluminium plate, and thanks to the buildtak flexplate system that does not work anymore.. so be carefull

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · BuildTak possible on UM3?

    http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping

    Same idea as the PVA solution but for ABS/PETG.

    Works great.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · BuildTak possible on UM3?

    Is there any way to adjust the auto-leveling's sensitivity (or offset) to compensate for the BuildTak?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · BuildTak possible on UM3?

    Hi!

     

    I had the same calibration problem while using BuiltTak FlexPlate on UM3. And yes there is a simple solution for auto-level adjustment. The answer can be found on German-speaking part of this forum:

     

    In short words: the table end-stop has to be adjusted.

     

    In order to do that you have to poup-up the white cover on the back of the table (with Ultimaker 3  written on it). It is only snapped in, a little bit of force is necessary. Then you will see an allen key screw, which is an end-stop limiter. Unscrew it about 3mm - using washers and tightening it back down is recommended in order for the screw not to change its position.

     

    Then run the auto-levelling. For me the auto-level works now with both FlexPlate and plain glass.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.8 Stable released 🎉
        In the Cura 5.8 stable release, everyone can now tune their Z seams to look better than ever. Method series users get access to new material profiles, and the base Method model now has a printer profile, meaning the whole Method series is now supported in Cura!
        • 5 replies
      • Introducing the UltiMaker Factor 4
        We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 3 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...