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Gimball

UMO Motherboard to UM2 Motherboard?

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Hi,

Just got a UMO with a heated bed mod in it. I’m a complete newbie so please be gentle with your replies, however, I wanted to know whether it is possible to put a UM2 Motherboard into the UMO and if so what other adjustments I would need to make?

 

Any advice however basic or complex welcome.

 

Many thanks in advance.

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UMO is a great printer - no need for UM2 mother board.  Try printing with it first.

 

The UM2 motherboard expects PT100 sensors in both the heated bed and in the print head.  You can use your existing sensors but you will need to create your own custom version of Marlin.

 

Does your UMO come with a spare extruder driver?  I forget.  The UM2 PCBs shipped by UM - some of them don't have the second extruder chip loaded.  I think all of the more recent ones - not sure.  Without that spare extruder driver you can't update to the marc2.

 

I'm not sure if there is anything particularly useful on the UM2 mother board that isn't on the UMO.  I can't think of anything other than it controls a different display (so you have to get the display board also - well you don't have to - I think you can compile marlin for the old display - I'm sure you can - just get the UMO+ firmware).  Really I think the biggest difference is that you don't need the fan anymore and it is compatible with PT100 sensors which require an extra tiny bit of circuitry.

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I'm also interested in swapping, because I'd like to do a mark2 or zerog upgrade.  I think the necessar firmware changes are not so friendly with UMO pcb.  I knew about the different temp sensors and number of extruder drives.  Are the motors in UMO, the same as UM2?  I may be better off building another printer....

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Hi again GR5.

 

The reason I need to replace the motherboard is that the old one is fried. I cant seem to be able to locate an original, only generic at the moment and have seen a UM2 at a reasonable price.

 

To answer your question, the PCB has the spare extruder driver.

 

Which fan is removed?

Edited by Gimball

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3 hours ago, Gimball said:

Hi GR5; I believe its the standard one; although is there a way to definitely check?

It's probably standard if you think.  It should be metal (not wood) and that right there is a strong indication that it's from UM.  It should have a glass plate with 4 clips in the 4 corners.  It should have an extra circuit board underneath the printer that is smaller - maybe 2 inches on a side?  I guess the biggest indicator would be the power supply which should be a "Meanwell" and should be 221 Watts.

 

Well if your board is fried then I guess you have to replace it.  Well your bed already has a PT100 temp sensor so you only need a PT100 temp sensor for the head.  Hopefully that's the only change.  I think you can use the existing temp sensor but I'm not sure - it seems to me you'd have to plug it in a different spot than where the PT100 gets plugged in.

 

@tinkergnome - Do you know if the UM2 board lets you plug a UMO temp sensor into a UM2 PCB temp input and just change the firmware?  The UMO outputs a voltage where 0V = 0C and 5V = 500C and everything in between is linear.  But the UM2 uses an opamp in some way to measure the PT100 but I don't remember what exactly it does.

 

Another choice Gimball - is to replace the temp sensor with a PT100 but I forget what the diameter is for the hole where the sensor goes.  It will be an exact mm like 3mm or 4mm.  I sell temp sensors that are 3mm in diameter but I suspect the hole in the UMO print head is different.  You can get PT100 temp sensors on the internet for other dimensions.

 

There may be other differences between UMO and UM2.  The UMO has a bottom fan - you can discard that.  The UMO has one side fan expecting I think 12V.  The UM2 has 2 fans with 24V among them and they are wired in series so each fan gets 12V - you can't do this with just any fan - if the fan has a computer controller built in (you'd be surprised) then don't use it.'

 

The steppers might be off a bit (steps/mm).  X,Y axis will be the same but Z and E will be a bit different.  But that's very easy to fix.  Actually you have the HBK so Z will be the same also.

 

Oh and the limit switches are different - the UM2 only uses 3 limit switches instead of 6.  It's a better way to do things.  So you only have to wire up 3 of them  (left, rear, and bottom).

 

You should be able to get a UMO PCB equivalent real cheap from aliexpress or ebay.  That might be easier.

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1 hour ago, gr5 said:

Do you know if the UM2 board lets you plug a UMO temp sensor into a UM2 PCB temp input and just change the firmware?  The UMO outputs a voltage where 0V = 0C and 5V = 500C and everything in between is linear.  But the UM2 uses an opamp in some way to measure the PT100 but I don't remember what exactly it does.

 

I doubt it... looks like there are a lot of additonal components between the sensor and the input pin... did i mentioned already that i have no clue about electronics...? :)

Google says, the instrumentation amplifier is there to maintain dc precision and gain accuracy within a noisy environment - whatever that means...

 

pt_100_input.thumb.PNG.22a9bf4746d2a7e6ddfeed76427c23e4.PNG


 

 

 

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