DXU - Efficient Dual Extrusion Upgrade for UM2+

[3dprntz 4]

For about $150 for everything, Seems like a good deal. The parts are much cheaper than OEM. You mentioned that you ordered the UM3 printboard before and installed it on a UM2. How much were you able to transfer over and get functional?

6 hours ago, Garufa said:

Yes I have purchased the PCBs for the toolhead and nozzles and no they are not compatible with UM3 PCBs. At the back of the nozzle and toolhead are 4 contact points instead of 5 and no circuits for LED or sensors- you can use the UM3 parts but replace the PCBs and adapt if you want to use 1.75 mm filament.

3D printer accessories DIY suitable for UM machine upgrade generation special control driver board open source motherboard NO1548 | Taobao Agent Bhiner (www-bhiner-com.translate.goog)

 

Probably if you grabbed this board, you would need to remap most of the pins and find a way to get the capacitive sensor to work.

Edited February 13 by 3dprntz

[Garufa 11]

9 hours ago, ansonl said:

The clone um2.5 print cartridge fits 1.75mm as shipped? And the real um3 cartridge is for 2.85mm? 

they come in for using 2.85mm filament, the heat break and nozzles for 1.75mm you can find on AliExpress

[Garufa 11]

4 hours ago, 3dprntz said:

For about $150 for everything, Seems like a good deal. The parts are much cheaper than OEM. You mentioned that you ordered the UM3 printboard before and installed it on a UM2. How much were you able to transfer over and get functional?

3D printer accessories DIY suitable for UM machine upgrade generation special control driver board open source motherboard NO1548 | Taobao Agent Bhiner (www-bhiner-com.translate.goog)

 

Probably if you grabbed this board, you would need to remap most of the pins and find a way to get the capacitive sensor to work.

Yes if you have to remap them at the PCB connector - it is not the same as the UM3 connector.

[Garufa 11]

5 hours ago, Garufa said:

look at page 3 of this topic, there is the original description for the image and creator.

[Garufa 11]

4 minutes ago, Garufa said:

look at page 3 of this topic, there is the original description for the image and creator.  SUPERDAVE42

 

[3dprntz 4]

Looks good. Guess I was thinking about the Ultimaker 3 mainboard. They would need to be mapped in marlin to work and not sure how it would handle the capacitive sensor. Though modifying the pcb printhead board would work just as well. I wonder if getting a raspberry pi and installing the firmware image would work also to make it as UM3 with the features. I would like to make a larger version of the UM3, but 600 X 600 X 600. Although the Carbon fiber rods may deflect less than the steel rods. Although probably at that point it would be best just to get a mainboard with updated stepper drivers and 32 bit board.

 

Edited February 14 by 3dprntz

[LouDFPV 6]

Mine is assembled and firmware compiled, so far so good.

First auto home and crash... DXUv2 BLTouch holder is about 1 mm too high and it crahses into my Y-endstop.. sheesh

[ansonl 19]

8 minutes ago, LouDFPV said:

Mine is assembled and firmware compiled, so far so good.

First auto home and crash... DXUv2 BLTouch holder is about 1 mm too high and it crahses into my Y-endstop.. sheesh

You need to mount your y endstop either to the back of the printer like the UM2+ has it. Or if it's in the same location as the UMO+, move the y endstop at the front towards the rear by a few mm. I relocated the y endstop on my UMO+ to the back like the UM2+ has it. The default UM2+ y endstop position should work. 

[LouDFPV 6]

27 minutes ago, ansonl said:

You need to mount your y endstop either to the back of the printer like the UM2+ has it. Or if it's in the same location as the UMO+, move the y endstop at the front towards the rear by a few mm. I relocated the y endstop on my UMO+ to the back like the UM2+ has it. The default UM2+ y endstop position should work. 

Thanks for the tip! I will have a look at the position tomorrow. It's in the front atm and is about 1 or 2 mm too far back for the DXUv2. 
For references, I have a Wanhao Duplicator 6 which is completely custom with a lot of UM2+ parts.

[Garufa 11]

On 2/13/2024 at 8:24 PM, Garufa said:

they come in for using 2.85mm filament, the heat break and nozzles for 1.75mm you can find on AliExpress

 

On 2/13/2024 at 8:24 PM, Garufa said:

they come in for using 2.85mm filament, the heat break and nozzles for 1.75mm you can find on AliExpress

Ali Express cartridge for UM2.5  https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806157386321.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2b423ad0Ua55tV&algo_pvid=29e37112-6e28-45e1-9066-19a0f9ef2659&algo_exp_id=29e37112-6e28-45e1-9066-19a0f9ef2659-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!41.31!41.31!!!297.00!297.00!%402101d69b17080397886677794e1d2a!12000036830132076!sea!US!888957344!&curPageLogUid=mrskkqICLe0q&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A#nav-review

[LouDFPV 6]

@ansonl fixed the endstop by moving it backwards about 1 a 2 mm, thanks! Printed my first tests on nozzle one and now I need to implement the switching mechanism but I am not sure which files to print and how to attach it to my printer.
I printed base1 and base2 in from here: https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/tree/master/AL-DXUv2/original community files/Special_mod_for_UM2_DXU_4655216/files
How do I go around attaching that to my printer? Can you show how yours is actually connected/mounted?

[ansonl 19]

50 minutes ago, LouDFPV said:

@ansonl fixed the endstop by moving it backwards about 1 a 2 mm, thanks! Printed my first tests on nozzle one and now I need to implement the switching mechanism but I am not sure which files to print and how to attach it to my printer.
I printed base1 and base2 in from here: https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/tree/master/AL-DXUv2/original community files/Special_mod_for_UM2_DXU_4655216/files
How do I go around attaching that to my printer? Can you show how yours is actually connected/mounted?

Do you have an open side hole on right like the UNO+ or closed right side panel on UM2?

[LouDFPV 6]

@ansonl It's a closed panel, see photo's.

[ansonl 19]

See my photos of the switching lever mount on both my UMO+ and UM2 frames. The files for both mount styles are in the GitHub. The closed um2 frame needs holes to be drilled in the side and the location of the holes can be determined with the exterior mount piece. 

Edited February 16 by ansonl

[ansonl 19]

@LouDFPV I just updated the github with my toolchange gcode at https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/blob/master/Firmware/README.md

https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/blob/master/AL-DXUv2/Cura configuration/README.md

Edited February 16 by ansonl

[LouDFPV 6]

16 hours ago, ansonl said:

@LouDFPV I just updated the github with my toolchange gcode at https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/blob/master/Firmware/README.md

https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/blob/master/AL-DXUv2/Cura configuration/README.md

Thanks for the update, I had already picked out the switching gcode from the commits in the pull requests.

Edited February 17 by LouDFPV
missing text

[LouDFPV 6]

Printing the other mount right now and will see if either fits, otherwise ill make a new one in tinkercad 🙂

[LouDFPV 6]

Well the mounts (both of them) did not fit so I made my own custom mount. Printing the final iteration (I hope) right now 🙂
This mounts to the inside of the case where the top right bolt of the side panel goes. Will see how this works out 🙂

[LouDFPV 6]

Well, I almost there! After some different issues the mount is ready and fastened to the enclosure with a second bolt. I do however have issues with switching from T1 to T0 when the lever should be pushed so nozzle 2 goes up. The gantry seems to skips steps due to the lever being to hard to push? It seems okay to do by hand tho. This means that the position after the switch is not physically the same as the machine thinks it is. Anyone else have this issue?
 

[LouDFPV 6]

On 3/6/2024 at 3:47 PM, LouDFPV said:

Well, I almost there! After some different issues the mount is ready and fastened to the enclosure with a second bolt. I do however have issues with switching from T1 to T0 when the lever should be pushed so nozzle 2 goes up. The gantry seems to skips steps due to the lever being to hard to push? It seems okay to do by hand tho. This means that the position after the switch is not physically the same as the machine thinks it is. Anyone else have this issue?
 

Got it working, my spring was too tight 🙂

[ansonl 19]

@LouDFPV Good to hear! 

 

How is the dual extrusion working for your prints so far? 

[LouDFPV 6]

I've have only just figured out why the filament for tool 2 was being retracted after a tool change, the G90 reset E position to absolute so I had to add E83 to the toolchange gcode in the firmware. Now I can finally start the head calibration print 🙂 Will let you know what my findings are after I start my first real DXU print.

I had dual extrusion before btw, but not with a lifting nozzle. It caused the nozzle of tool 2 to regularly hit the print and create scratches.

[LouDFPV 6]

@ansonl almost perfect, just wee more offset tuning.

Ps. I use Prusaslicer and not Cura.

Edited March 9 by LouDFPV
Additional information

[ansonl 19]

Looks good, did you try the dual color benchy that has only gunwhale and edges in a different color for a challenge? 

[LouDFPV 6]

17 hours ago, ansonl said:

Looks good, did you try the dual color benchy that has only gunwhale and edges in a different color for a challenge? 

No I did not yet, will give that a try!