@yellowshark - next time send me a personal message if you have a question and link to the question topic and I will answer MUCH sooner.
Taulman bridge is a fantastic material and easy to print. It is much too flexible for most of my needs but it is strong. Very strong. I mean if you printed a UM robot and used a two vice grips and attached to ropes it would probably take 10 people to pull that robot apart (5 on each rope). If it isn't strong for you then raise the temp as you need high enough temps to get good layer adhesion. Printing at higher temps is noisier (bubbles, sizzling) and less pretty (less clarity - less transparent) but you need that layer adhesion or the part is worthless.
It also has a very high glass temp - higher than ABS I think. Above 100C I think.
I've been printing it like this:
TAULMAN BRIDGE
Ultimaker 2
glass coated with PVA (elmers wood glue mixed with water and painted on glass - dries transparent)
nozzle 240C
bed 70C
50mm/sec
.2 layers
Recommended Posts
Top Posters In This Topic
14
11
9
8
Popular Days
Sep 8
8
May 6
8
May 7
6
Apr 9
6
Top Posters In This Topic
pm_dude 14 posts
profepaco 11 posts
rhymeandreason 9 posts
gr5 8 posts
Popular Days
Sep 8 2014
8 posts
May 6 2014
8 posts
May 7 2014
6 posts
Apr 9 2014
6 posts
gr5 2,229
Gosh - I haven't read this topic in a while. I've had good luck with taulman bridge and good luck with ninjaflex. I printed my first ninjaflex parts yesterday and struggled for a while but was victorious in the end. I think my main problem was that i was printing too cold (220C) and had to raise it to 240C but I changed SO MANY THINGS that I don't know which thing fixed it and which things are a waste of my time.
NINJAFLEX
I printed at 240C at 10mm/sec on UM Original with heated bed with PVA (elmers wood glue diluted 5-10x with water and dried until invisible on glass) on it at 40C and keeping the spool loose as mentioned above and putting a drop of oil on the filament (and watching it drip down to the base of the loop of filament under the spool) every 15 minutes or so. Other's said one drop per hour is plenty. ALSO I used a larger diameter nozzle (.65mm) and printed .2mm layer height (these 2 things were recommended by someone).
This came out very good. I have only printed 2 things (a gasket and a pumpkin head) and neither had any need for retraction. I suspect stringing and/or bridging and steep overhangs will be my next problem.
Failure: 220C at 7mm/sec with .4mm nozzle, .2mm layer and adding oil but not keeping the filament spool loose. the failure was occasional severe underextrusion (like nothing would come out for 10 seconds now and then leaving bad, ugly, disfunctional gaps).
edit: Since then I've printed with .4mm nozzle just fine (10mm/sec 240C with oil).
Link to post
Share on other sites