Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
darthwilson

Faberdashery PLA Material

Recommended Posts

Hello folks

I am a proud Ultimaker V1 owner. I got one about 2 months ago and soon enough I will run out of material which I got from the Ultimaker store. As I am in Ireland/UK I was recommended to try the website http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/%20to%20get%20PLA%20material.

They have a great selection of colours and you can buy it by the metre which is cool! However I notice that the filament diameter is either 1.75mm or 3mm. The filament I get from Ultimaker is 2.85mm I believe off hand. Will the 1.75 or 3mm work in an Ultimaker V1 and if so then which one should I get? 3mm because it is closer to the 2.85?

Apologies in advance if this is a silly question, I would just like to be sure and I am very new to 3D printing.

Thanks folks and have a good day :)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Typically '3mm' is used as a generic description, and what you get is really around 2.8 - 2.9mm. Certainly, with Faberdashery that is the case. It will work fine in your UM1.

Some suppliers (especially generic providers with little understanding of the requirements in practice) produce '3mm' filament that really IS 3mm - or sometimes more. And those won't work well on an Ultimaker, as they can become caught in the Bowden tube. So it can be confusing.

But if you stick with reputable brand name suppliers, like Faberdashery, ColorFabb, etc., you won't go too far wrong. And I definitely recommend Faberdashery since you're close by and won't have to pay huge shipping costs.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Darth

I am in UK too, and have started using Faberdashery quite a bit, so far my preferred material. I have started to measure diameters regularly and so far every spool I have had has been very accurate, 2.85 typically is what you get. I use the UM2.

Here`s a picture of the black which I have just measured.

Fab Black

On another note regarding filament, when I do a change material I also measure the filament when it has been retracted back through the feeder. It seems that after the feeder has chewed it up a little, and added its little teeth marks, the PLA typically ends up at 3.10mm

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in the UK and also have a original Ultimaker (rev 4), I've been using 3mm Faberdashery PLA with absolutely no problems, even their Galaxy Blue which has aluminium dust in seems to work fine as long as you crank the temperature up to 220/230C.

Some people don't like the fact they only supply their filament loose in a bag rather than on a spool but I prefer it. The spools seem to cause some problems when you get to the last 10-20% near the core where the plastic can be tightly coiled and has a strong curve to it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put it on a cake decorators turntable, allows the filament to untwist when the tension builds. Did have a batch with a break in it so now check it carefully before printing. Would also recommend colorfabbb great quality and still prefer it being on a spool.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Andrew, I printed out a spool holder for use with faberdashery stuff, but actually all I ever do now is leave the spool loose on the floor at the rear of the printer and it simply unravels itself. No problems so far and one less component issue to worry about lol.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ordered some new plastic from Faberdashery a couple of days ago and it arrived today, I've gone for some more interesting colours this time, Squeezed Orange, Village Green, Bloomsbury Teal and Princely Purple. I'll post some photos of prints with them later.

 

Faberdashery PLA

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I ordered some faberdashery filaments and received it yesterday.

Princely Purple

Galaxy Blue

Desert Tan

And they gave me a sample of glowbug yellow (glow in the dark).

First print with my basic settings for PLA: 220°c and 60°c bed:

Filament won't stick to the bed, too cold

230°c and 65°c same behaviour

235°c and 65°c same behaviour

240°c and 60°c sticks well to the bed, but i have some little blobs on the test print:

20140611 213654

 

Nothing to worry about. Just need to fine tune the settings...

 

I just find that the temperature is quite high, if anyone here using Faberdashery filaments could give tips on his print settings? Is 240°c a good temp?

 

I did a test print of the UM Robot i had with TweakAtZ putting the temp down to 195°c for tricky parts (works well with any Colorfabb filaments) and it resulted in massive underextrusion :mrgreen:

 

Anyway the finished look is very smooth and kind of shiny, looks pretty good to me

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also applied glue with the towel technique :)

But it looks like 230°c extrudes too hard (the filament doesn't look melted enough) is it possible that there is something more in the purple colour that makes it less viscous at that temp?

Maybe Rob can tell as he printed the same colour?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Didier

I have a loads of faberdashery filament i think there is only a few colors i don't have or haven't had, but i do have all four colors you have received, I normally use a temp of 220 and a bed temp of 60 at layer heights of .1 and i would normally raise the temp to around 225 to 230 if using layers of 0.15 - 0.2 My bed always has some glue stick on it at all times i just give it a wipe with a damp cloth every print then after a few days of use i normally add some fresh stuff, my glass never gets washed just wiped with a damp cloth so there is always some residue of glue on it...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I only received my first Faberdashery a short while ago, and by trial and error have found that the temperature must be 240C for .2 layers at high speeds of 50-60 mm/s.

And in my case too, it is very shiny, quite nice though.

I do not use glue, only wipe the glass clean with some glass cleaner and heat the bed to 60C. Seems to stick.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Our picks

    • How to 3D print with reinforced engineering materials
      Ultimaker is hosting a webinar where we explain how you can achieve and maintain a high print success rate using these new reinforced engineering materials. Learn from Ultimaker's Product Manager of Materials and top chemical engineer Bart van As how you can take your 3D printing to that next level.
      • 0 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!