Usually, when people show very nice prints, they printed these slow. Like 30mm/s, or maybe 50mm/s. It makes a big difference!
One more thing: (some people may not like me saying this...)
If you're using the UM blue filament - You can get better results by using better filament. I often had uneven extrusion with the UM blue. I'm now only using it for trying out stuff, not if I want to print something that actually has to be good in the end.
You didn't include your print temperature, that can play a very big part.
Besides temperature perhaps you have a partial clog? Try cleaning out the nozzle using the "atomic" method (heat to 220C, extrude a bit of filament, let cool to ~90C and then pull the filament out so that it comes out in one piece).
Also, why is your travel speed so slow? I think the default is 150 and I'm sure you can bump it up to 200+ without problems.
Wow I have not see layer delamination like that. But I agree with Jonny, 100mm/s is awfully fast especially if you have any sort of blockage. I would chop the speed at least to 50mm/s and see what difference there is.
When looking at your settings the HUGE RED FLAG was that your shell was 1.0mm instead of .8mm or 1.2mm this causes either 3 passes of .33mm undextrusion (good) or 2 passes of .5mm attempted overextrusion (bad). Either way try .8 or 1.2mm (a multiple of nozzle diameter).
Other than that it looks like basic underextrusion issues of which there are many causes. It would help to know if this is a um1 or a um2 as they have very different causes of underextrusion. The simple fix is to just print slower and/or hotter. Underextrusion is when the feeder can't apply enough force to get that thick plastic through that tiny nozzle. The problem may be the nozzle or the feeder but it's easiest to just raise temp to 240C where the plastic flows more like honey than toothpaste and/or slow down the print by 2 or 3X to say 35mm/sec.
But if your machine is partly broken (can't extrude like it used to) then start off by characterizing your machine here:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/
The above is a useful test for UM1 also. And make damn sure you print at the standard test setting of 230C otherwise the test result you get will be meaningless.
Filament was PLA blue (Ultimakers own material)
Nozzle temperature = 230 C
plat form temp = 75 C
When i use basic/simple settings, prints are good quality.
Also i have printed much better quality items than that "hook" one.
The one which i am having problems, prints UM2 robot and stackable-cup perfectly.
Here are some of my other printings with the same UM2 printer:
Batman Begins
23h printing
75% fill
and pretty much same settings as the "hook"
A own model of testing towers with two UM2 printers (same settings/g-code):
200mm tall and 50x50 bottom, 35x35 top
50% fill
80 mm/s printing speed
Blue one is marked as machine 19 and white one is from machine 21, machine 19 is the problem one just like we can see from the quality...
PLA blue and PLA white
When looking at your settings the HUGE RED FLAG was that your shell was 1.0mm instead of .8mm or 1.2mm this causes either 3 passes of .33mm undextrusion (good) or 2 passes of .5mm attempted overextrusion (bad). Either way try .8 or 1.2mm (a multiple of nozzle diameter).
Other than that it looks like basic underextrusion issues of which there are many causes. It would help to know if this is a um1 or a um2 as they have very different causes of underextrusion. The simple fix is to just print slower and/or hotter. Underextrusion is when the feeder can't apply enough force to get that thick plastic through that tiny nozzle. The problem may be the nozzle or the feeder but it's easiest to just raise temp to 240C where the plastic flows more like honey than toothpaste and/or slow down the print by 2 or 3X to say 35mm/sec.
But if your machine is partly broken (can't extrude like it used to) then start off by characterizing your machine here:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/
The above is a useful test for UM1 also. And make damn sure you print at the standard test setting of 230C otherwise the test result you get will be meaningless.
I have made that gcode testing, when i started to make my research...
Just sent some of my results to that part of forums
(http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/)
The blue tower is definitely underextruded. You could have saved time and filament by only printing for the first 10mm. What temp were you printing at? There is a relationship between speed and temperature. 80mm/sec .2mm layers is (I can do this in my head: 80X.2X.4) 16mm^3/sec which is - well - INCREDIBLY FAST. I think even at 240C you won't be able to do that - that's kind of beyond the printing ability of most Ultimaker2's. However if that is .1mm layers then you are at 8mm^3 per second which is kind of near the limit of what a UM2 can do. I can do that if the filament is at 240C. Barely. Better at least than your results.
If you really need to print 80mm/sec and .1mm layers you need to crank up the temp - 250C might be best. Don't use 250C when printing slow though or you can "burn" the filament.
Umm... 80 x 0.2 x 0.4 is actually 6.4mm³/s. Which is moderately fast, but not amazingly so.
If you have the shell thickness set to 1mm, then you'll get two passes of 0.5mm width, not the normal 0.4mm. So that increases the throughput to 8mm³/s, which is nearing the upper limit for some printers, especially if the filament is tightly coiled etc.
Well those towers had 0.5mm thick walls...so they weren't solid.
Temp used on tower = 230C
It's pretty weird that i can only see outer shell from top and bottom, but at the middle outer shell looks just like the infill.
I also noticed that the quality of my prints got better when i manually slowed the speed to 60mm/s and set material flow to 105-110% (while nozzle heat is 230C).
Umm... 80 x 0.2 x 0.4 is actually 6.4mm³/s.
Oops. :oops: I need to stop doing it in my head maybe.
Hi Folks, seems I also just cannot manage to get the settings sorted. Have been playing with the settings for hours now and still not getting closer to the solution. I am trying to print ABS.
Looks like when I reduce my speed I get little better results but still not great. I have reduced the speed to 60 then got better on finishing the one part.
When removing the parts I noticed the layers are also not fused together well either. and the part is coming apart completely. On my Mendel90 I get far better results with more or less the same settings - only diff is I printed on the Mendal90 at 60 speed. What am I missing?
My UM2 Printer settings:
Speed: 70
Temp: 230
Bed: 72
Fan 30%
Material: 100%
Cura Settings:
Basic:
Layer height - 0.2
Shell thickness - 0.8
Enable retraction - yes
Fill bottom/top thickness - 0.6
Fill Density - 100%
speed - 50
Advance:
Nozzle - 0.4
initial layer 0.3
initial layer line width - 100%
cut off object - 0.0
Dual extrusion overlap - 0.15
travel speed - 150
bottom speed - 20
Initial speed - 80
top/ bottom speed - 0
outer shell speed - 0
inner shell speed - 0
minimal layer for cooling - 5
enable cooling - yes
Plugins
Pause at height
Tweak at Z 4.0.1
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tommyph1208 55
it is not (entirely) related to the amount of problems/bad quality you are experiencing, but your shell thickness should always be a multiple of your nozzle diameter... eg. 0.4, 0.8, 1.2, 1.6 etc. for a 0.4mm nozzle...
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