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electronic_matt

How to improve this print?

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I am wondering how I can improve this print, this is the first thing I have designed myself and then printed, it is a small intercooler model for my RC car

Looks ok from the top, but the end round bits are not too good at the lower half, they were bending up during printing, a bit like the ultimaker robot ears seem to do sometimes, the first layer is squashed out due to the bed level, but the top layers seem to stick out at the edges as well? my main concern is how to get the end cylinder bits to print properly?

Also the bottom looks a bit weird as well, may be under extruded?

IMG_2478_zpsb64f4f62.jpgIMG_2479_zps82953efa.jpgIMG_2480_zpsdcf2b437.jpgIMG_2477_zpsdffc10d6.jpg

 

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Have a read through this, loads of really helpful hint and tips http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#underextrusion :)

 

Hi Bez, I have been reading that guide already, very useful!

I was wondering if I can improve the end cylinder parts by design improvement instead of may be tweaking printer settings alone?

 

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So one thing to remember is that the first layer is usually 0.3mm. This is going to give you a little more blocky results when a round surface begins in the first layer. Basically, if you are printing on 0.1mm layers then the top of the inlet/outlets are printed at three times the resolution as the side that is towards the bed.

I can think of three options. Others might be able to come up with other fixes.

Reduce the first layer to the thickness of the other layers. However, if you go to a first layer of 0.1mm, level and distance to the nozzle is going to be very critical and difficult to achieve.

Offset (outset) the core by 0.3 or 0.4 so the inlet/outlets are not part of the first layer. However, you will need to print with support and you will need to post process the support to remove and clean the area. You won't get a nice finished surface unless you finish it and it will be a different finish than the rest of the part.

split the part in one or two spots and print vertically and super glue back together. For example split into three parts, the fin section and two end caps so the seam is somewhat natural when the end caps are glued back to the middle section of fins. Then print so the inlet/outlets are vertical so they are nice and round.

You might be getting over extrusion. If you have calipers measure the filament size and set in Cura. Slight overextrusion will occur if the filament size is bigger than what you set in Cura. For example, Cura has 2.85 but the filament is really 2.95.

 

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The only way I know to have horizontal cylinders is... support and post-processing. Support could be created by design or using the slicer features. Then carefully filing would do the job.

A trick would be to "invent" something that requires to be present there and justifies the peculiar aspect, don't know, a valve or something :)

 

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I would probably change orientation. Looking at the second picture, I would print with the left side in that picture down on the bed. I would add a couple of small custom break away supports for the cylinders in the shape of a triangle.

But then you might get problems with the "ribbing" (depending on how deep they are). If you could make those cutouts chamfered instead of straight that would take care of that problem.

 

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The only thing I can think of at the moment is that you might be over extruding a bit? The top of the print is solid so there's less room for the plastic to escape to -> it squeezes out towards the side of the print. Not sure though, just a random thought.

 

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Have you tried just decreasing print temperature?

Is your fan 100%?

 

I was printing at 200c, bed was 70c, speed 30mm/s, weird really as I printed a phone case before this and it printed fine, may be it's my design that's a bit strange, I've done a revised design so will try that

I have fans set to come on at 5mm 100%, do I need to adjust this?

Whats the best option/s to reduce over extrusion?

 

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Try setting the max fan to 0.5mm instead of 5mm. On your UM2 go in material , settings customize and make sure the material flow is at 100%, diameter should match the size of your filament (2.85mm by default) and Fan at 100%.

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Speed is low, no sign of under extrusion in the print so I wouldn't worry about that sound. I get that sound to every now and then.

It can occur the feeder does a clicking sound and spin backward. If that was the case it would mean your printing too fast for the temp you use. If you print faster, raise the temp too so the nozzle deal with what the feeder is pushing.

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Speed is low, no sign of under extrusion in the print so I wouldn't worry about that sound. I get that sound to every now and then.

It can occur the feeder does a clicking sound and spin backward. If that was the case it would mean your printing too fast for the temp you use. If you print faster, raise the temp too so the nozzle deal with what the feeder is pushing.

 

Ok will do :) thanks, next job is trying to work out why it didn't print the top grill part, just looking at the files at the moment

 

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Make sure you look at the model in Cura's layers view. This shows the actual toolpath from the generated gcode. Sometimes the slicer which is a separate process will remove small detail. Due to the separate process, only the layers view shows this. The other views aren't aware that the slicer removed part of the model.

 

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