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rlburton

Sample of ultimaker 20/100 micron resolution?

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Good day!

I would love to be able to see the ultimaker's famed 20 micron resolution is someone would be willing to do a simple 1 cubic centimeter sphere and box? One set at 100 micron and one set at 20?

I have only experience now with makerbots, which of course can only do 100 microns, and I'd like to see if the ultimaker is worth it.

Cheers,

Rodney

 

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I think I've only ever printed one or two items at .02mm layer height. I find that .05~.06mm works just fine if you're looking for smooth prints, but don't want to waste time.

Just to show time difference when printing 1cm cube (50mm/sec speed)

.1mm = 11 minutes

.06= 18 minutes

.02 = 52 minutes!

I also found that in the couple of prints I did at .02mm, there were some noticeable spots where flow rate resulted in some abnormalities, probably filament diameter related.

 

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0.06 is very very nice if callibrated and much better than 0.1 unless you enjoy using filler/acetone vapour business which reduces quality. i only print in 0.06 and acheive results makerbot users can only dream of if they can only print in 0.1 as this for me is totally unacceptable as the lines are very visible and i hate them. Some people dont mind them, but i think these people are just in denial, and have accepted that they have no need for higher quality hence dont persue it. However on the otherhand i believe 0.02 is a joke in my opinion, and total waste of time. But that is just my opinion, as i can smooth printed stuff in pla at 0.06 to look almost perfectly smooth with very little effort. So i wouldnt ever see the need to print any higher, and resin printers are just waaay too expensive at the moment with all t7he various costs involved. Besides you are only increasing the chance of errors and with such insane print times at 0.02 you are more than likely gonna get a few so whats the point if you are printing ultra fine to try and eliminate print lines in the first place?

You have to accept the fact that if you want something real perfect you need to put in a touch of work afterwards. It all depends on how much work you want to put in and what the object is that you are trying to print. But in my experience i found that 0.06 is great. I might try 0.05 but whats the point if my results are so good as they are. I dont want to wait weeks for my print that may fail, when i can wait a day for it to look great?

If you want 0.02 you are gonna have to wait for new technology im afraid, fdm printers cant really improve much due to the mechanics. The makerbots need to upgrade thier resolution from the lame 0.1 limit i understand is its commercial limit.

Just buy an ultimaker 2 and print at 0.06 and youll never look back. I have only 3 or 4 messed up prints in 6 months and had the printer printing non stop day at night. I hear the makerbot is very unreliable, but then again maybe its just people cant calibrate them right or something.

Sorry for the long rant but i highly reccomend people to print at the 0.06 layer height. It makes a huge difference if you are after higher quality results. Your eyes might not see the difference but its very noticable after a chemical dip.

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By calibrating, i just mean making sure the printer is in the best shape it can be i.e. no blocked nozzle and being well oiled up.... i always use the basic settings only to print, so don't fiddle around any settings. its good out the box.

The printer works great with 0.06 as well as 0.1 but the overhangs tend to look better at 0.1 as the layers arent so thin and dont suffer as much from the heat of the nozzle.

Im sure i could play with it and experiment and improve it but ive had enough of experimentation and just print useful stuff now rather than having an army of test prints on my desk..

 

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Obviously there is a difference between 0.02 and 0.06, but on the naked eye it is difficult to tell the difference. And there are not a lot of practical uses where you have to exceed the limitations of the naked eye ;)

But if you need to.. you can :)

Therefor a lot of users don't go any higher then 0.06 because that is already very accurate and like some other users emphasize, 0,02 does significantly increase in print time.

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you can defiantly notice the difference on between .06 and .02 when you are doing small objects on low angles and some curves. but its so hard to get everything set just right and the increased time makes it not worth the hassle most of the time. things like overhangs are useless and that's where higher layer heights give better quality.

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Here's some 0.06 prints

IMG_20141108_022041-1024x788.jpg

IMG_20150331_045536-1024x576.jpg

IMG_20150512_024551-e1431413730706-1024x576.jpg

In my experience,

0.04mm is even better quality (sorry no photo for now)

0.03mm and under, the quality actually starts to degrade compared to 0.04. But this could be due to my temperature not being correspondingly lower.

 

What slicer you use? can you please share your settings? I recently got Ultimaker 2+ and I use simplify3d yet I am still not had a successful print with simplify 3d under 150 micron.

I use colorfabb PLA

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Wow this was a while ago, so not even a 2+. The 2+ is easily capable of producing as good if not better results. than these.

I print almost exclusively under 150 microns. Only in weird cases will I go greater (if its transparent material)

The general settings I use are:

210C +-10 degrees depending on layer height and speed.

60C bed

45mm/s

Really nothing all that special. How are your prints failing? maybe there is an underlying problem somewhere, I'm quite confident that a new UM2+ is able to produce these results out of the box.

 

 

Here's some 0.06 prints

IMG_20141108_022041-1024x788.jpg

IMG_20150331_045536-1024x576.jpg

IMG_20150512_024551-e1431413730706-1024x576.jpg

In my experience,

0.04mm is even better quality (sorry no photo for now)

0.03mm and under, the quality actually starts to degrade compared to 0.04. But this could be due to my temperature not being correspondingly lower.

 

What slicer you use? can you please share your settings? I recently got Ultimaker 2+ and I use simplify3d yet I am still not had a successful print with simplify 3d under 150 micron.

I use colorfabb PLA

 

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Wow this was a while ago, so not even a 2+. The 2+ is easily capable of producing as good if not better results. than these.

I print almost exclusively under 150 microns. Only in weird cases will I go greater (if its transparent material)

The general settings I use are:

210C +-10 degrees depending on layer height and speed.

60C bed

45mm/s

Really nothing all that special. How are your prints failing? maybe there is an underlying problem somewhere, I'm quite confident that a new UM2+ is able to produce these results out of the box.

 

 

Here's some 0.06 prints

IMG_20141108_022041-1024x788.jpg

IMG_20150331_045536-1024x576.jpg

IMG_20150512_024551-e1431413730706-1024x576.jpg

In my experience,

0.04mm is even better quality (sorry no photo for now)

0.03mm and under, the quality actually starts to degrade compared to 0.04. But this could be due to my temperature not being correspondingly lower.

 

What slicer you use? can you please share your settings? I recently got Ultimaker 2+ and I use simplify3d yet I am still not had a successful print with simplify 3d under 150 micron.

I use colorfabb PLA

 

 

I been mostly failing getting the first layer to print good, what is been doing is making like gaps in the first layer then I had issue not filling between the lines, I increased the layer width and kept the layer height same, but only failing anything under 100 micron at 100 micron the printer works great, I still have to get use to it I guess I know its not the printer fault but just getting used to simplify3d with ultimaker together I used it for flashforge and Airwolf, and I have cube pro (which I hate so much)

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If you use s3d, remove the option that it's called 'avoid crossing perimeters'. That movements are done at maximum print speed and they can drag the first layer if you are already having troubles for them to stick. Also, get a gauge feller (they cost 3-4 € ) so when you do the leveling procedure you can use the 0.1 feller and calibrate the hotend more precisely (um2 calibration expects a 0.1 height separation on the firmware while doing the calibration)

The fast way on s3d to an easier first layer it's to increase first layer extrusion height to 140 & ratio to 140 and set first layer speed to 40-60%.

Edited by Guest
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I been mostly failing getting the first layer to print good, what is been doing is making like gaps in the first layer then I had issue not filling between the lines, I increased the layer width and kept the layer height same, but only failing anything under 100 micron at 100 micron the printer works great, I still have to get use to it I guess I know its not the printer fault but just getting used to simplify3d with ultimaker together I used it for flashforge and Airwolf, and I have cube pro (which I hate so much)

 

I don't know about S3D but it sounds like you need to raise your bed a little bit (untighten each leveling screw about 1/3-1/2 turn. The lines on the first layer should certainly be touching without fudging of the settings.

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