DidierKlein 729
Imnot questionning your method its probably a good idea to do so. Maybe i dont see the difference because i always print a thick first layer. Anyway thanks for the tip
Imnot questionning your method its probably a good idea to do so. Maybe i dont see the difference because i always print a thick first layer. Anyway thanks for the tip
If you use TinkerGnome's Firmware there is adjust z if i recall correctly, so you can quickly adjust the Z height when you change nozzles without leveling the bed.
But I don't bother as i don't notice the difference either.
revieved my olsson block, had a hardtime removing the temp sensor..now its broken #$$@#!
I used heat and WD40 but no results. Gonna replace the sensor tommorow..
hmm my olsson block doesnot fit??? i have a new ultimaker 2 and the fanholder has two upstanding edges in stead of one..i had to bend one out of the way..is that normal?
I've seen it also when installing my 2th head on my dual extrusion um2.. you can just take pliers and bend the piece on the back flat. Works fine I did it as wel
Edited by GuestTOPIC MOVED TO HERE
Nils! There could be manufacturing glitch in the standard block or (aouch!) even in the Olsson block. Can you measure the depth of the holes, please?
If you feel uncomfortable, Of course I will ship you a new block. But it is no point in it if the hole is right.
Thanks
Edited by Guest
@Swordriff: no problems at all, as posted in the original post
Hey Guys,
I dont wanna start the question twice, but i cant find anything.
Carl said to me i should look here for an answer.
I have ordered my Olsson Block Kit and it hoprfully arrives as fast as possible
Now the question:
is there a fan mount to print u can suggest to me?
I dont wanna deform any original Parts.
printed that one for my olsson block:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-mount-um2-olsson-block
Greetz
Dom
Hi Dom,
I have used this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-original-fan-duct-extention. It is just an extension to the normal fan shroud, but you have to unmount the fan shroud in order to change the nozzle.
Regards,
Nils
Application Change, Wrong Nozzle Size!
This does not apply to UM hot ends which are perfect 0.40mm nozzles.
This ONLY applies to 3dSolex JET 025 Nozzles shipped after May 26th. These have no marking on the side. If they have 1 marking, they are ok.
The faulty ones are in fact closer to 0.33 mm and you can use them as such by adjusting in Cura Settings.
All customers will receive a replacement 0.25 JET nozzle in first Week of July.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
Edited by GuestCan anyone confirm if I can safely screw one of the brass Jet RSB nozzles into the aluminium block of my old UMO? I'm not clear if the thread metrics are the same.
I'm interested to see how the 0.6mm nozzle with the improved flow of the Jet design will impact on a UMO.
this is @gr5 reply:
I tried putting an e3dv6 nozzle on my UMO and it didn't work.
:(
The first issue was that I had to level the bed much higher because the nozzle is shorter. I was able to do this. Barely.
The second issue was more serious - the glass is so close to the print head that the fan touches the glass. So to get it to work you either have to remove the fan shroud or you have to build a custom fan shroud.
Other than that it's fine. It screws in and fits perfectly.
TIP: a safe way to get more space between the Olsson block and the fanshrout;
When you normally create enough space between the block and the metal fan shrout you'll need about 2mm space between the PTFE and the metal hot-end-isolator. When you do this you increase the spring tension on the teflon. A way to do it without the additional tension is using "korneel's tube" iso the spring. Will probably increase the life of your PTFE ... You'll need a somewhat shorter version of the tube, I made it 1mm shorter.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-spring-replacement
Edited by GuestHi Guys,
can someone tell me how 3d Solex shipps the orders to germany.
I am waiting for an order from 17.06 it didnt arrived yet.
Im a little tired of waiting.
The Order from 17.06 includes an older order from 30.05 or something, it tooks so long that i dont know the exact date of it.:(
Send a message to swordriff here on the forums - he'll straighten it out:
ok thank you!
Hello guys,
I've had the olson block for quite a while now, i've printed over 250 hours on it. it has been working great. Having the option to change the nozzle in less than 5 minutes is amazing.
but recently, I'm having a problem with my prints.
The print starts out okay (not great) but they get rough and rough, eventually the nozzle does not extrude anymore, as you can see in the pictures.
I have tried the atomic method, and tried a new nozzle, but still the same problem.
Any ideas what can be the problem?
Thanks!
Hello Mohissa!
Sorry to hear you have difficulties!
You do not say which materials you print and what temperatures.
If you print at 230+, your Teflon coupler is cooked already !
I am guessing this is your problem.
It stays "up" (pun intended!), while cold, and after 5-30min in print softens and collapses onto your filament.
I will eat your old Teflon if this was not the fault (...).
Change PTFE coupler.
Good Luck!
If you print a lot at higher temperatures (XT at 250c) and your PTFE is the issue (which it probably is) you may want to try "korneel's spacer" see top of this page....
Change PTFE coupler.
Good Luck!
Hi,
can you tell me how that will help? will it happen again? how often do I need to change the PTFE coupler?
Where's the best place to get them?
thanks,
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yellowshark 153
Hi Didier I do find that when swapping between a .4mm and a .8mm nozzle then the distance between the bottom of the extruder and the tip of the attached nozzle is different. Of course the distance is small but I fine tune my nozzle to bed distance to 20 microns so the distance in nozzle length can be substantial. Certainly I get visibly better results from both nozzles by using individual z-offsets rather than just the one
Edited by GuestLink to post
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