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Hi all, Using different brands of PLA that run at different temperatures on a UM2 with an Olsson block/2+ upgrade. As there is no way to change temperature in Cura ( the Ultimaker draws on the values in it's config file,) I created a custom printer in Cura. I am looking to block out the corners of the build plate to avoid the nozzle hitting the bed clips. Ideally adding this to the Start G-code, assuming I can do this without manually editing the fdmprinter.def.json file I did find this, which was promising. https://files.fieldofview.com/cura/Replacement_Patterns.html I can change the nozzle temp using this syntax, but couldn't find a syntax on how to clip out the corners of the build plate A 1hr google did not show syntax - tried the Reprap forums also as well. Could anybody point me in the right direction for this syntax? Regards, A ps: FWIW, the below is the custom Start G-code to allow custom temperature setting in Cura on an Ultimaker and produce a prime blob on a 0.25mm nozzle as well as a nozzle wipe. For a 0.4mm nozzle, I'd increase the E values by 16/6.25 ~250%. Not a perfect blob, but good enough to prime it. M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G28 ;Home M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G0 X0 Y10 Z0.5 G92 E0 G1 F300 G1 E4 Z2 F4000 G0 F300 G4 S5 G0 Z8 F300 G4 S5 G0 X0 Y30 F2000 G0 Z 0.15 G1 X0 Y200 E8 G0 X0.4 Y200 G1 X0.4 Y30 E8

Thanks, Solved the problem with this link https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667412437627 That goes together with your proposal. Setting should be changed from windows instead of doing it form AMD catalyst software. Thanks again and take care

Exactly. Its a really strange adjustment thats been made to the prime towersin 5.7. When using a tall prime tower and printing with TPU (where there is a lot of excess ooze that gets caught on the prime tower) the stress exerted on the tower after around 80mm becomes too much and it fails. It has failed with PLA on large towers a few times for me but it fails almost every time with TPU. This is a pretty massive oversight imo. I love 5.7 but I think I am going to have to go back to a previous cura rev. Im trying to get prototypes for work done with TPU and with the prime towers failing if im printing anything over 80mm. And its leaving me with some ugly prints. @GregValiant

Maybe @Dustin can explain. Here is what I see: This is the first layer of an "Interleaved" prime tower with a brim. There is no actual prime tower, just a brim. The same thing happens with a skirt. The Prime Tower doesn't actually connect to the bed. The first layer of the actual tower goes down on layer 2 so the base of the actual Prime Tower is under-extruded by around 50%. It doesn't really connect to anything. This is the first layer of a "Normal" prime tower. This sure looks "Interleaved" to me, and there is very little contact area with the bed. As the tower grows, this weak point gets stressed more when the nozzle comes across and makes contact. Also in regards to a "normal" tower, every other layer is "interleaved" and so there is poor layer adhesion on those layers.

How can I check that? If it's not, how can I fix it?

Hi Slashee_the_Cow, Thanks for your reply. I don't have windows 11 but 10. I changed langage as asked. I m exactly doing what you said but in AMD catalyst software but it seems that it does not detect UltimakerCura While running (I choose the 2 executable files of cura found in its installed Cura folder and both set them to high performance), in vain. They are not listed in the recent Applications, it seems to me that the catalyst software does not detect cura when open. I can confirm this while opening the "swichable graphics application monitor". It detects fusion 360 as soon as i open it (set as well to high performance) but not cura unfortunately. Thanks for your help. If you have any further tip. Let me now.

Why is the initial layer of the prime tower now a grid pattern and not 100% attached to the base? There does not seem to be any setting in the duel extrusion section to change this. This has caused several failed prints with the prime tower detaching from the buildplate.

There is no point of using the prime tower base if its just barely attached to the prime tower as shown above. Really is a dumb design in my opinion.

@MariMakes Do you know what this is about? I do not recall this being a thing on the previous cura versions

My towers keep breaking off and this is clearly the failure point. There is no setting that I can find in the Duel Extrusion section that fixes this. I am using an Ultimaker s5.

There was a competition here a couple of years ago. It was the "How far can I throw this printer out a second floor window" competition. The Longer has a nice aluminum handle on top. Just sayin'.

Still looking for a working Cura profile for Kobra 2 Neo. I prefer using Cura over any of the other programs.

Ich nehme an der Drucker hat erst naxh X0 Filament Rückzug gemacht und Hotend und Heizbett ausgemacht und dann Motoren abgeschaltet? Oder nach X0 nichts mehr gemacht? Ohne genaue Informationen kann man schlecht helfen. Also bisher wenn G91 genutzt wurde, geht nicht mehr ins Minus. Dass der Druckkopf wieder auf X0 fährt gibt es nur 3 Möglichkeiten. 1. Firmware sagt, auf X0 fahren wenn der Druckkopf im Minus Bereich ist; ist auszuschließen, weil sonst kein Filamentscript ausgeführt werden kann. 2. Weil der Druckkopf auf X-20 ist und er gegen den Endschalter fährt, es sei denn er soll dort durch ein Befehl Warten wie G4 oder M25, M600 oder ähnliches. 3. Weil der Drucker diesen Befehl M84 vorher gelesen hat (Drucker liest immer ein Paar Sätze vorraus) und fährt aus Sicherheitsgründen (so in der Firmware hinterlegt) wieder auf X0. Ausprobieren am besten ohne G91, auf der X Achse weniger als X-19 und kein M84, dann sollte er auf X-19 bleiben.

Nochmal alles in ruhe, Hatte nicht ganz verstanden warum du dich so auf den G91 versteift hattest Ich hatte eine andere Schlussfolgerung, aus deinen Bsp. code getroffen. Nur durch deiner Reihenfolgen Änderung von G1 E-35 F100 ;Slow-Einzug hatte er gesehen das er kurz auf X-20. fährt dann den Einzug macht und dann fährt er ja doch wieder auf X0 Trotz komplett ohne G91 fährt er ja dennoch auf X0 Also hat für mich das G91 nicht damit zu tun Und da nichts von X0 in gcode steht habe ich schlussgefolgert das die Firmware eine Routine hat die nach Beendigung des Druckjobs wieder auf X0 fährt @Franke66 Ich habe dir mal ein kompletten gcode erstellt Hier sollte er komplett ohne Heizung und Filament in der Mitte Fahren dann auf Z20 und dann halt auf die X-20. Dort sollte es 5 Sekunden bleiben und dann sollte er wieder auf X0 fahren. Wenn ja können wir dann probieren wie wir es unterbinden könnten Falls er jetzt bei X-20 stehen bleibt, ist meine Theorie hinfällig Gruß Forum_test gcode X0.gcode

You can submit a bug report about the failure to send but unfortunately if you can't recreate it reliably there's only so much they can do. You should include the part about the close button in the dialog box, that part they may be able to help with - it's possible it wasn't removed intentionally, but when Cura moved to a different version of its UI toolkit, for example.

This is a printer issue, not a Cura issue. UltiMaker do not offer support for printers from any other manufacturers and here on the forums while we might help you out if you ask nicely 🙂 I don't think you're going to have much luck necroing a thread over two years old. Actually, while I'm here, I'll move this to the third party products board.

Hallo Member, verstanden habe ich das schon, aber wo was wohin ich setzen soll das ist mein Problem Z.B M600 unterstützt meine Firmware nicht, schon ausprobiert. Vielleicht kannst du mir einen kompletten Code schreiben,dann kann ich ihn ja ausprobieren. Ich habe mit G-Codes noch nie gearbeitet, das ist für mich total neu. Es geht ja nur darum ob er auf der X Achse beim beenden auf X- fährt.

Has anyone found a fix for this issue yet?

Only sometimes: When pressing "Print via cloud" a dialog box appears with "Sending Print Job / Uploading print job to printer" and a progress bar, but the sending never starts. In a previous version of Cura this dialog box could be closed with an x in the upper right corner, and then I could try again. Now I have to close Cura and start it again to try again. This is less than optimal. It only happens sometimes. I haven't seen any system in when it happens. There is no error message, it just seems to wait for something that never happens => wait forever. Please re-enable the close option on the dialog box, alternatively fix the issue 🙂

@cmustang It'd really help if you set your language to English before you take screenshots like this. I can only read half of it because I know what to look for. Have you tried using the latest version of Cura? You may also need to set Windows to make it uses the graphics card for Cura. In Windows 11 you get there by opening settings then going to Display then Graphics. That'll bring up a list of programs which will probably not be everything installed on your computer. If Cura isn't in the list click Browse above the list and add the Cura executable. Once you have Cura in the list, click it and, click Options and there'll be an option to let Windows decide, or to use the power saving (integrated graphics) or high performance (graphics card). Select high performance and click Save

The normal procedure for using the printer is that you slice your model, put the gcode file on an SD card on your computer, then insert the card into the printer and start from the printer's control panel. You can't update the firmware over USB, you need to put the files on a memory card. There should be instructions included with the firmware files. There should also be acceptably translated English instructions after the Chinese ones. As for whether you need to update, especially with Creality firmware, the general rule is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". So unless you experience problems you probably don't need to update the firmware. I can't speak for the S1 Pro, but it looks pretty similar to the E3V2Neo and E3V3SE so the update process might be equally similar. Here's how you do it for the ones I know: You need to format a microSD card (4-16GB, if it came with one that should work) as FAT32 with a sector size of 4096 bytes Copy the firmware file for the screen to the card Insert it into the screen, turn the printer on, wait for it to update (it'll show you on the screen), then turn the printer off Connect the SD card to your computer again, delete the screen firmware file from it and copy the printer firmware file to it Insert the card into the printer, turn it on, it should show it's updating then start normally You can leave the printer firmware file on the card if you want, but probably better if you delete it Of course, this wouldn't be Creality if there weren't some things to bear in mind. This is the part where you should stop reading because you shouldn't worry about it, but I write for my own amusement and hopefully that of other experienced users on the forums. I don't know what happens if you try using a sector size other than 4096 bytes, but any cards more than 16GB can't be formatted with sectors that small. If you need to buy a memory card, and you don't have a stash of them like me from various gadgets, unless you want to order one direct from China it'll probably cost you the same as a 64GB card. I haven't tried using a bigger card but creating a single 16GB partition, but that's a bit beyond the average user (no offence). Both the E3V2Neo and E3V3SE come with a memory card and a USB card reader. I've been through one E3V2Neo and three E3V3SE's and the longest any of the included cards has worked was 3 weeks. The median is two weeks. The card readers tend to not even last that long. If you don't have other cards or card readers, use the ones that came with it. If/when they fail it's not a catastrophic failure, you'll just get errors copying files over, or the printer and computer won't realise a card is connected, or something like that. When the instructions for the E3V2Neo say to insert the memory card into the back of the screen, they mean it literally. You need to unscrew the back cover and there's a microSD slot on the back of the motherboard. On the E3V3SE there's a slot in the side of the screen unit. The E3V2Neo uses microSD cards for its primary storage. The E3V3SE uses a full size SD card, but you still need a microSD card to update the screen. Luckily I found an 8GB microSD card laying around and about a million micro-full size adapters so I just use that. The printer will consider any firmware file which has a different filename to the previous one it installed an upgrade. Actually great for recovery if the update process %#(^s up somehow. Also good for downgrading if an "update" turns to be more of a "downdate". The screen is actually smarter than the printer in this regard, it will only update to newer versions.

Hi, I had the same issue before in cura 4.8 (problem in simulation of printing trajectory by layer not working) I added Cura to my AMD card setting activation and choose to maximaze performance while it is running and it worked. But when i updated to cura 5.3 it nomore works. I tried doing the same but in vain. i Have 2 graphic cards in my laptop: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 AMD Radeon HD 7600M Series I can run fusion 360 easily but struggle with cura 5.3.1 Can someone help plz.

Its a few years down the line & have just seen this thread after also loving the hilbert curve in SS but I have gotten so familiar with Cura that I would prefer not to change over, BUT Hilbert Curve 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

So how do you update the firmware? Do you need to? im so new to this that im unaware of what I should do.

Printing over USB is deprecated and no longer supported. It's a remnant from the days when printers had absolutely no brains of their own and had to be told what to do one thing at a time. It's also a bad idea in general. If your computer crashes or something, then boom, there goes your print. You should save gcode files to a memory card/USB drive/whatever your printer uses and run it from the printer itself.