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  2. @MadCooper There seems to be something missing in your code for your pyd file. Cura (actually the embedded Python interpreter) should be able to pick it up normally. I've embedded PyWin32 into my CAD plugins and it comes with many pyd files and works fine. You probably want to take a look into SWIG or Cython to be able to code with fewer hassles and let one of these projects generate the C/C++ code you need. Maybe this is something for you! 🙂
  3. Here another thread, but for the OpenSCAD plugin. Would be great if we as a community could come together here and discuss new features and current problems with the plugin. Looking forward to interesting conversations! 🙂 Website: http://thopiekar.eu/cura/cad/openscad/
  4. Hello @RobyRob and @WielGeraats, I don't know why, but I either overlooked the notifications about your posts in this thread in my inbox or I never got them. Anyway, I added an official thread as for all the other plugins. Now something that might be interesting for you: I also faced the problem in the meantime and fixed it for me. It would be great if at least one of you could test the unreleased plugin. The download link and an (updated!) installation guide can be found in the official thread soon! Regards - Thomas
  5. Here another thread regarding one of my plugins. As I see not too many discussions about the FreeCAD plugin so far, I would like to advertise to use only this thread for discussion. This way many users can meet at one place and help themselves or I can give support of course, too. PS: I noticed a bug in the plugin that will merge all bodies of all objects in a CAD file. If someone is interested to test, please let me know. Website: https://thopiekar.eu/cura/cad/freecad/ Multibody bugfix: https://thopiekar.eu:5443/cura-cad-integration/CuraFreeCadPlugin/-/jobs/1024/artifacts/browse Installation guide: https://thopiekar.eu/cura/plugins/installation/
  6. This should work now. Just update to Cura 3.7.0 or 4.0.0 and update the plugin.
  7. Got tired of waiting, so I rolled back to 4.3.3 by doing the firmware recovery (attached). It was actually fairly simple, and I'm not particularly technical. Anyway, every issue is now gone, and I'm back to printing. Work Instructions Ultimaker 3 firmware recovery.pdf
  8. Thanks for these suggestions. I have been trying different speeds and slowing it down seems to improve the surface but I'm still getting spiral ridges. I'll try different layer heights.
  9. No problem 🙂 Grad to hear that it works!
  10. Hey and greetings again... do you have any news regarding the fixing of the automatic levelling problem? I still don´t know what exactly is or could be wrong with the UM3... Can I take other steps to eliminate the printbed from stopping half way to the cores and then don´t even touching them? It is pretty sad that I can not use the printer anymore now for almost 3 weeks and there is no clue what I could do to search or narrow in the problem.. See you and have a nice easter holiday Greetings Daniel
  11. Hi UM experts, I have a UM5 and am trying to get the best quality prints for architectural models. The larger scale models, 1/16" = 1'-0" print fine, but the smaller scale, ~1" = 50' does not. A photo is attached. Left print is at .1mm height and the right is at .2mm using pla. Are there particular setting I can adjust to stop the blobs on the piers between windows? Is the detail level/size of the piers to small and thin to get a good print? Thanks, John
  12. Me for example, I upgraded my UM3 and my S5 and have nearly no issues except the x/y calibration which is only needed for dual print and I don't print often dual. Just one minor issue on the UM3, that I have now (after the updated) a buzzy sound from the display. It is annoying, but I found a workaround to stop that sound. I just have to go to a submenu and return to the main, then the sound stops. Sometimes I have to jump more than one time to another view, but it works always.
  13. Super Danke für die Info und den Link. Gruß Mike
  14. aag

    CPE+/PVA -> awful warp

    Also, I am not sure if it has anything to do with the water. I submerged it immediately together with the glass plate. Maybe it is just the temperature shock.
  15. CPE is a little more heat-resistant than PLA (up to 70°C), CPE+ is said up to 100°C (I've not used CPE+ so far, only CPE), but with water temparature up to "hand warm" (starting temp, no heated bath) i never had problems with after-print warping.
  16. aag

    CPE+/PVA -> awful warp

    thanks - but wasn't CPE supposed to be more thermoresistant than PLA?
  17. Nein, oberhalb der Mitte ist weniger Federspannung, je tiefer die Anzeige, desto größer ist die Federspannung (siehe z.B. hier: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52504-clean-the-feeders) Grüße
  18. Hi, I've read somewhere at the Ultimaker-Homepage, that the water used to dissolve PVA should only be up to 30°C, but they recommend use of cold water. Greetings
  19. Something horrible happened. I made a large Ultimaker CPE+ print, and it came out of the printer beautifully (build plate: 110°C, UMS5 with plexiglass cover to retain heat). Then I put the model into warm water (45°C, thermostat + pump) to dissolve the PVA. And now the model warped horribly! It seems that the surface that was against the build plate has contracted and is now all bent. However, the upper surface (opposite to the build plate) is still in shape. What could have happened? How can I prevent that? Any help would be very gratefully accepted!
  20. If this hasnt be sold please contact me at stephenwillms1@gmail.com
  21. How many users have provided feedback on this upgrade? How many % is needed before you consider it relevant? I regret that you consider opinion from minority not relevant.
  22. Apparently the new firmware has only affected 1% of the UM users. Could we hear from the mute 99% that were not affected?
  23. Danke, ich beobachte die Sache und melde mich gegebenenfalls. PS. Die Feederspannung war im oberen viertel. Oberhalb der Mitte ist doch strammer oder? Gruß
  24. Hello, Hope this is this correct place to post, So my UM2+ has been sitting for a month and when I went to level the bed the rear thumb screw is soooo tight I can only move it about 2mm each way so i can not get the bed level and I don't want to break something whats the best why of freeing up the thumb screw so it will move like it use to?
  25. I'm printing everyday with UM3 and since the upgrade to firmware 5.2 the active level doesn't work anymore. In fact I even got scratch on the glass plate because the nozzle was touching the glass plate (through an UM adhesive tape !!!) The factory reset doesn't help. Hopefully I can still use manual level. As described in this forum I can't downgrade the firmware 5.2 😞
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