mr_seeker

There is a long list of "recommendations" that I am supposed to look into. Besides the ones you mentioned, there is Kisslicer, sendG, and a whole bunch of others... However when there are problems, you need to have a person in support that can quickly determine if its a bug or something that the user is doing wrong and knows the behavior of the software, instead of sending them back to the forums while saying "Get your help there".

Please try to upload the picture to bayimg.com or something similar, using google mail will result in the image being broken.

For people having difficulties getting their machine to work properly under ReplicatorG, please try this: 1) disconnect USB cable from computer 2) start ReplicatorG 3) plug USB cable back into computer 4) Machine --> Upload new firmware... --> (then follow steps to upload Marlin) 5) click Turn On button in ReplicatorG Since replicatorG 0035, when you use a log level other than "INFO", you will receive warning pop-ups when Marlin returns an error message. This is handy when you have failed prints during build and want to know what went wrong, without having to look all the way in the log files.

It seems that Erik broke that link somehow. What I would advice is this: - Disconnect the UM from your pc. - Start ReplicatorG - Connect the UM, but do NOT try to start it in replicatorG. - Upload the newest firmware on the board. - Go to Machine, Machine Driver and select Sprinter/Marlin. - Connect the machine in RepG. The upgrading can also be done with older versions, however repG 34+ requires Marlin firmware to work properly. EDIT: Cura firmware also works with RepG, but you need to use the "Experimental Marlin Firmware" in order to make it work.

Its easy speaking. However, just saying is one thing, actually implementing it is another. You are working with sensors that arent really accurate and you need to device a way to get the info out without losing too many pins. The build-me-marlin is actually part of the newest UM firmware. Thats how I know that this function is actually available. However, I didnt had the time to actually put it in repg. Well, what that command does is simple: It heats up to 150C while measuring, and based on that calculates the PID values. Those values can be stored in eeprom.

Thats with all reprap machines, its not just the UM. The problem is that the stepper motors dont give any feedback. Onliest way to fix it is to use stepper drivers that actually can sense the load. There is a function in Marlin to calibrate the temperature. Normally you would print with PLA, which means you will never reach the 260C. And if you go to 300C and beyond, the PEEK melts...

And did you properly disconnect the SD card? When using mac/linux, and disconnecting too soon will only result in the data NOT being on the SD card

Try this: - Start RepG without connecting the ultimaker. - Connect the Ultimaker, but dont connect yet. - Upgrade - Then try to connect. Chances are high the firmware is shipped with 5D firmware.

Hello, I asked Erik to put the 0035 release online. This release is actually before the official release from RepG, but I thought: I updated a lot, so why not put it online before makerbot does? What has been changed: - Big builds that can take ages to load and possibly hang repG, are not loading the second time you start RepG. - Marlin 1.0 from Cura should function now. - Error messages will pop up when using other log settings than INFO (to assist in people having trouble with their print failing, if there is an error from the firmware you should get a message) - Extrusion is working! Please note that there is a "buffer" in Marlin, so when using extrusion it doesnt stop directly but slows down first. - A secret message. - Skeinforge 47 + 50 should be working. - Support for Slic3r 0.7.2b - Getting the right location in the jogpanel. - New & improved version of the installer (thanks Daid) Any questions, bugs or features that you like to see, please tell me...

I'm... Obsolete! :cry: Contact Harma, she can help bring your ultimaker up-to-date

I used a script that is freely available on the internet, just google it. It was originally made for makerbot, but you can use the same script for ultimakers too. I didnt. The Zelda theme is not mine, only the Nyan cat. I also got one with "flight of the bumble bee", and it is quite slow in the beginning before speeding up like crazy and making it sound perfectly. Also found out that Portal music also works fine on an ultimaker (if you want to know which one, check the promo video of the new ulticontroller Just check the script. The pitch is related to the speed of the stepper motors. The faster the motors go, the higher the pitch. Then its only controlling the time by controlling the length.

25 bucks, no insurance. Else I would do it for you...

There are a couple of things you should know: PLA vs. ABS: PLA hardly tends to warp, ABS does a lot more. I prefer PLA also because it doesnt smell. Support structure: You dont need any support structure unless you are printing at >45 degree angles (recommended angle). Using a second material for support is not needed, but can be handy if you want your print to look nice. However, using PVA is a bit of a pesky thing since its quite flexible (and quite hard to print). I do know that there are prints which are made on 1 printer with loose support, so using dual head is not really needed unless you really want to see the color coming out. Heated bed is only needed when printing ABS. For PLA, the blue tape usually is enough to get the plastic to stick.

What I think is that you are waiting for the temperature to come up... Try settings, "read temperature during build" and watch the magic happen

Its the anti-spam functionality.

There is: G92: Set position

Let us start from the beginning, so it will work properly (I will use slic3r for this demonstration, but it should work also with skeinforge) - Start replicatorG, make sure the machine is connected. - Set G-code generator to slic3r - Click on "Move", make sure that the object is touching the platform. - Click on "Generate G-code", and select a profile. - Go to the tab gcode, this will show you the commands that will be sent to the printer. - Search for M109. This is a command that says "wait for temperature to be reached". You can change this to the value you want. - Click on "Build", the machine will now check if everything goes well, calculates an estimate and then starts to print. (The estimate is accurate when printing on SD unfortunately). - If it goes too fast, you can adjust the speed using the sliders. Know that Marlin buffers code, so it takes a little time to adjust the speed. Building from the model view will automatically start building gcode, its some weird feature that is built in. The real-time control temperature is just for setting a new temperature, it does nothing except for setting the temperature if needed. The machine starts too high probably because the Z-axis stop is set too high. What I usually do is making sure that it stops nearly against the bed, and adjust the bed myself using a bit of raw power and turning the Z-axis screw. The start-up sequence for Slic3r is as follows: - Home to 0 - Heat up - Start printing For skeinforge is it simple: Start printing.

He shouldnt check, you should make sure it will never turns to 0, because that will mean it will freeze the machine

ReplicatorG 0034 has a lot of improvements compared with the older versions. I didnt had time to change every page, still working on bugfixing a lot of small stuff because of the change from 26 to 34. I hope that the community can help me a bit... For replicatorG 0034, you can either use Slic3r or Skeinforge 40 (for the quality print settings). You dont have to change anything with Slic3r except setting the right temperature (find the M109 Sxxx, where xxx stands for the temperature in degrees). Skeinforge may need some more changes but I dont know them all. What errors do you get? Some errors are normal and can be ignored, others are warnings that can break your machine. Its a new feature that has been implemented in repG 0034.

If its still giving problems, try running replicatorG without attaching the USB and wait for replicatorG to say that it cant find a port to use. Then attach the USB, wait for the Arduino to get recognized and upgrade the firmware, or try upgrading using an older version of repG. Its a security lockout in 0034 to prevent repG from using older firmware (which can cause crashes when using 5D on repG 0034).

I don't understand this statement. So can we drive the PCB heated bed from the UM power supply (eg, plugging directly into UM motherboard)? Is the power supply capable of supplying enough power? Are we REQUIRED to have another power supply to power the heated bed? Has anyone tried powering it directly without adding another power supply or another board, etc?? You need to add a separate supply, the UM power supply cant deliver enough power (75-100W for the heated bed + 60W for the PCB itself) without shutting down first. So you need some sort of power relay board with a separate power supply to make it function properly.

Some use 250 baud to print, but I think you can do couple of things to get less pimple: 1. Slow down (replicatorG can do that during a print) 2. Close all programs except repG. 3. Use an Ultimaker controller. The ridges is because of the "layer height". The lower the layer height, the less ribbles you see. Some experiments of mine, from left to right: 0.05mm, 0.03mm, 0.015mm.

The bubbles are formed because the machine is desperately trying to get commands over USB, but fails due to the connection speed. The USB is a bit of a bottleneck, best is to slow down the print or use an SD card.

The promo pictures look so good because they print at 25mm/s, 0.05mm per layer, and around 200-220C. Also using belt tensioners will help too Dont expect to get a good print in the first run, I usually mess up 2-3 prints before I got a good one. Its all in the first layer...

Its just Slic3r that is causing the problem, your program is running fine. Do you run windows, mac or linux? Slic3r should standard be in the map slic3r/bin (or something similar), unless you decided to change/delete the slic3r map (which can cause problems).