Daid

First off, you are running into the "thin wall problem", try setting the wall thickness to 0.4mm, this might sound strange, but it could help. Next, I see some serious backlash issues in your print, this is mechanical and usually the short belts that are not tight enough. I can see this because what should have been circles are more square. Finally, is that ABS or PLA? I recommend by starting with PLA, as ABS is a bit harder to print with.

Actually, one of the things here is "Ultimaker white", our white PLA needs a higher temperature to print properly. But I do not know if it's labeled like that. As for the slanted printing, it's always something mechanical. Anything from a lose pulley to bad motor current settings.

You can configure the bed size in the preferences, preventing objects from falling off the bed with different bed sizes.

Note, I just released 12.12 which fixes the issue

I'm happy to announce Cura 12.12. This release mainly improves the MacOS support, which removes many of the odd problems that the previous release showed for MacOS. It no longer requires anything installed on your system, and also doesn't install anything. It no longer shows "Python" as application or shows 2 icons in the dock. You can also drop STL files on the dock icon, or double-click STL files to open them. Other then that, it's mostly a bugfix release, with a few minor new features. New Features: [*:3voajcfy]Initial startup wizard asks for a few extra things about your machine and adjusts configuration accordingly [*:3voajcfy]New bed leveling wizard to check and adjust your printerbed [*:3voajcfy]A new button on the 3D window shows steep (more then 60deg) overhangs in red in the 3D model, allowing you to [*:3voajcfy]identify parts that will be hard to print without support. [*:3voajcfy]Easy model rotation by use of the new rotation wheel [*:3voajcfy]Ask to reload the current file if Cura notices that the file has changed [*:3voajcfy]Project planner now always auto-places models, as manual placement was tricky and everyone used auto placing anyhow. [*:3voajcfy]Added "hop" to expert settings, hop moves the head up when moving without printing, giving less chance to break your print when moving. This helps with thin spiderweb like prints, but can also produce extra blobs.Bugfixes&Small changes: [*:3voajcfy]Fixed a bug with none-ascii paths in Windows [*:3voajcfy]Fixed "scale to max size" to account for the skirt and raft [*:3voajcfy]Added text on temperature graph in print window [*:3voajcfy]Fixed functionality of temperature set box on print window [*:3voajcfy]Fixed sketchup dae import scale [*:3voajcfy]Removed the machine center settings in favor of always centering [*:3voajcfy]When loading a new model and resetting scale/rotation/mirror also reset the plugin [*:3voajcfy]Fixed a bug when using 1.2mm als wall thickness causing over-extrusion You can download Cura 12.12 from: http://software.ultimaker.com Happy 3D printing, David Ultimaking Ltd.

I just tested, and there is a problem with 1.2mm, it's a rounding error, so entering 1.20001 should work around it. I've made a fix for the next release, which will be out soon.

Could be outdated sources, i've just updated to the latest.

We do offer free paper-cuts ;-) Note, we are lucky to have an awesome community that does stuff like this!

Dust on the filament might block the nozzle, dust on the rods might lockup the axes or causes missed steps. Keeping your rods oiled should work against the dust on the rods (where there is oil, there cannot be dust) if you are afraid of dust on the filament, there are some options of installing cleaner before the feeder. (look on thingiverse for ideas)

It installs a start-menu shortcut for the user that installed it. This shortcut is important, as it has the proper settings to start Cura.

It moves the head away when pausing, so you can prime the head yourself by pushing filament trough it. I didn't raise the head in the code yet, so I was having issues priming it correctly, and the road has a nasty scar by the brown. I changed the code so it also raises the head when pausing, still need to test this. My plan was to have the fields green, the road brown, the shield blue, the streets gray and the houses and walls red. But because color swapping at the lower layers was difficult I didn't go for the blue, and the brown ended up as shield. Still, proves that it works :-) I have designed most of the 72 tiles for the basic set now. Except for the T crossings, X crossing and the cloisters.

First test for my own set of Carcassonne tile set. Printed on a single extruder Ultimaker with the pause at height function of Cura to switch colors.

Disable the raft, lower the temperature and enable retraction.

Not a strange mistake to make. The newest board design does have Heater1,Heater2 and Heater bed on the board. But still Temp1,Temp2,Temp3 as labels.

The Ultimaker electronics doesn't have a 3th extruder. You need to select the heated bed temperature at the heated bed :-)

Well, for one, I can see that the end is not straight, allowing melted PLA to get between the PEEK and the tube, which causes a plug. Once it's plugged, at some point, it will pop. As the extruder is very strong. (Assuming V1 hotend, with the V2 this shouldn't be a possible configuration)

In the expert settings, there is "support material amount", the default should be on 50%, making nice thin lines...

It doesn't show up in the shop because they are support items, usually the support people will give you the links to the items so you can order them trough the normal channels.

I understand the time difference is frustrating. But the heater cartridge is a custom part, so I do not think you could find an exact replacement in the US. It's not a difficult part, just a 40W 19V heater in a casing. But finding one with the proper dimensions could be a problem. I don't deal with the money side of things (being R&D and all), so I do not know the costs. If you emailed support, they should mail you back today.

1.5.3? I've never seen one of those, but I think it should work, the firmware should support the whole 1.5.x range. But the lowest I've tested is 1.5.4 but there can always be a bug somewhere in the code. I currently do not have the facilities to test themistor settings.

When I said to use plastic spacers we didn't include them in the kit yet. It was just something people where upgrading on machines to reduce noise. Ultimaker later changed the kits (changing production takes time) Seeing your timeframe by looking at your other posts, it looks like you have one of the latest bit older kits. (Which is still a few versions ahead of the machine I have at home, which is a year old) There is nothing wrong with this kit, and we've shipped it for quite a while before the newer version. We are continuously updating the printer. I can guarantee that an Ultimaker you buy now isn't the same as the one you buy in 6 months. The limit switches are causing a few problems, in 95% of the cases the switches work fine. But sometimes the threads won't hold, or people screw them to far and the threads get stripped. The Z switches can be secured with 16mm bolts and nuts, and the X/Y can be attached with 12mm bolts instead of the usual 10mm. (But there are very few spare 12mm in the kit) Using 16mm in the X/Y switches won't work as they will block the sliderblocks. The X/Y endstops won't come very critical, so you could also glue them in place.

Yes, David thinks it is better to preheat with fan blasting full power... I somehow have the feeling that he might be the minority here. but you can change the fan speed in the preheat settings, and save to memory. I didn't add the fan there. It was already in there. Made by someone else. I also think it's better to leave the fan off while pre-heating. I've changed a LOT in the firmware the last few weeks. And fixed quite a few bugs (and introduced a few). I think I will have a official Ultimaker firmware with the updates by the end of the year. I also fixed a few safety systems, like the watchdog and the heater sanity check. The watchdog will "reset&hang" the machine if the firmware code crashes (this will also causes the heaters to go off) which is better then burning up your nozzle. The heater sanity check (WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD) checks if the temperature increases 10C within 20 seconds after turning on the heater. If this check fails it will just turn off the heat and report that heating failed. Which will also help if your thermocouple is not properly connected.

Cura centers the object, so if the outer width/depth is changed because of the slicing in 2, then it won't touch.

The kit upgrades is a constant process, so a few months old is already an "old" kit. But 08-2012 will still have the wooden spaces, and I think it also has some of the V1 hotend parts as well as the old extruder next to the upgrades. The latest kits no longer contain the old parts, that's the newerst kits. I think they are dated from 10-2012 (but I work at R&D not production) If you want spacers, they are 11mm long round black electronics spacers with an inside diameter of 3mm.

Also make sure all the screws are inserted from the proper side, as they should extend away from the gear, else it won't fit properly.