Daid

You're right, during the loading of the GCode preview, the GUI hangs. When I made the code for the GCode loading I didn't know about some things inside of Python, which is causing this irritating bug. I've known about it for quite a while already, but I haven't found a way around it without making GCode loading times much worse. (It's the loading of the file that takes long, not the displaying, the displaying has been improved in RC3 so it is faster and doesn't block the GUI)

Most likely you have wired up the endstops wrong. Re-run the machine check, and verify that the correct endstop is responding to the correct question. It's quite common to have the X min/max swapped, because they are labeled wrong on some machines.

Florian was complaining about the quality of my photos. So I got myself a better camera then just my phone. So for stability I printed a small tripod:

Bit annoying to ask everytime someone has bad parts. But by any chance, did you get your kit from ebay? Anyhow a 2.78mm inner diameter is not going to work. Even if you squished it a bit it still way to small. If you want to look for a replacement part yourself, you need atleast 65cm of 1/4in outer diameter, 1/8in outer diameter PFA tube. http://www.mcmaster.com sells it for example.

The Cura RC2/3/4 firmware is almost the same as the RepG34 version. However, using firmwares from older RepG versions is not advisable.

There is known problem with the linux version, which is that it does not work with the default baudrate of 250000. You need to install an 115200 baudrate marlin (build from my builder) and configure Cura to use 115200.

If you have calipers, could you measure the inside of the tube (from the hotend side)? Filament of 2.89mm should just slide in there without any force really.

Check your temperature sensor connector, most likely you have the red and yellow wires switched: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/6147761690/

Any chance you are using an SDHC card? I've seen the jump from 16% back to 0% happen with an SDHC cards. Don't use SDHC cards, you need to use SD cards.

Most likely it's the "orbit cooldown", but not sure why it would print over your model then. You could see if you can find the right configuration option in Skeinforge (have no fear, there are only 260 options in there). Or you can use Cura, which seems to work for a lot of people. (But I hate to push my own software )

Use the "file->save profile" option, and "file->load profile". Profiles are compatible between versions. Profiles loaded into older version will preserve settings that are not known in that version. So it's always safe to load/edit/modify and save a profile from any version. Up from RC3 the start/end-gcode is also saved in the profile. The only thing not stored in the profile is the "steps-per-E", as this is very machine specific. And the profiles where designed to be shareable. (you can upload the ini file somewhere so someone else can use it, you can also paste the contents online)

Well, I couldn't find a good clear way to get it in the GUI. But if you look at the top toolbar, you see the buttons "Add/Remove/Up/Down/Copy" Next to copy there is "set custom profile", this will ask for an ini file which will be used to slice the model you have selected. This will be indicated with a * behind the model name. I'm not that happy about the icon I used to the button, but I couldn't find anything better. You can make the profile ini with the normal window, by setting the settings you want, and then use "file->save profile" to save the ini file.

The effect you see is called "stringing". It's one of the major problems with the Ultimaker design right now. What helps is retraction. I don't know if Slic3r has retraction settings, and if they work (because in my experience Slic3r does a great job at slicing, but sometimes options just don't work at all, IMHO the work they do on it is great. But it's not stable yet, and the people that are shouting that everyone should use it are not people that just want to print, but people that want cutting edge tech) If Slic3r has retraction, try 2mm of retraction at 50mm/s. You could also try Cura, which has defaults that work great for the Ultimaker: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki but you have to set retraction yourself then at 2mm, because the default of Cura is no retraction.

If you insert an M109 S{print_temperature} somewhere in the start code, then it won't add it's own M109 at the beginning. There has been some discussion about this, and I think I'll make it default for the next version to heatup after homing.

Once they are in stock again, and all orders are send out. This might sound a bit lame, but UM doesn't give off estimates about these things to make sure they don't get complains if they don't make it. Which I think is a good thing, because as engineers we tend to be very optimistic about dates. And thus the chance of not making it is large.

The Ultimaker checkup should work, but it assumes you start off with a cold machine. So if it was still hot from a previous print it might report an temperature sensor problem without a real problem being there.

The PEEK is the first part to go. I've seen it happen, and it smells really bad. I guess the bowden tube would be next, but it doesn't get as much heat as the PEEK.

I don't know how well it ages. We have a print laying in someones garden for half a year now, still looks the same. (dutch weather, lots of rain, little sun) But it's black, so it is hard to see if it loses color. I've done these snap together things: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12305 It can be done, but you need different designs for ABS then PLA. As ABS flexes more then PLA. It simply comes down to doing test prints. That's the only way to know your design works. Even with my experience, it took me quite a few tries to get my tiny gears printed correctly in a way they work. Which didn't have to do with clamping, but more with tolerances and part strength.

The blue end has been drilled wider, so it's easier to stick the filament in it from the extruder side. Putting this at the hotend side will create plugs.

Do not get it over 70C, or it will go soft. It can get this hot in a car, behind a window, in the sun. But that's rare.Do NOT dishwash it! As for strength. *bonk* I usually throw my rotating cube gears: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120423 ... .small.jpg on the floor when people ask this. They haven't broken yet. And now are losing a bit of strength because of the many times it has been disassembled. But strength wise it's as strong as any other plastic. I really like PLA. It feels tough, it smells nice when extruding, and it prints very well. The only disadvantage is that it breaks before it bends. So snap together designs are sometimes a bit harder to pull off (but still possible) I haven't tried ball&socket yet. But I have done pin connectors, for example in the screwless rotating cube gears. I'm not sure what you find thick and clumsy. The normal connectors are like 7mm width, but I think they can work smaller. However, when I printed them at 50% scale they didn't snap that well anymore and that small cube falls apart.

The main purpose is to remove strings between the different printed parts. This means you can print at higher temperatures, and higher speeds for quite a few parts, as 80% of the stuff I print can be printed without strings. It also allows you to print different parts at different slice settings. It also has the advantage that if your extruder grinds then you still have the previous parts printed correctly, instead of a whole plate of things failing. You are free to disagree Actually, disagreeing with a good reason is great. I'm not the almighty Ultimaker God. I'm just a random guy with silly ideas. Well, I want to try if printing the first layer, or first few layers works better. Sorry that I did not make that clear. However, there is a chance that it will work worse then the current implementation. Something like this needs to be done anyhow for the gantry avoiding code (print 60mm of each object and then print the next 60mm, to avoid hitting the gantry of the X/Y)

Overhangs up to 60deg can be achieved. 45deg is a safe bet always, but more can be achieved. Bridging is troublesome at 0.1mm layers, it still works, but comes out less pretty. For high quality prints I recommend avoiding bridging large gaps. With thin parts you run into the "thin wall" problem. Which means it no longer puts in an infill while it should. Depending on what you are making, walls thinner then 1.6mm can be troublesome. However, if you use different settings this sometimes can work. For example, for these small gears: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120520_230452.jpg I used only 1 perimeter line of 0.4mm, instead of the normal 2 lines. Which made the infill better. However, this setting would not have worked in combination with overhangs. I have no experience with ABS, but I've read that it's harder to print ABS at thin layers.

It means you can move trough the endstop with G1 commands. If you don't have "Endstops only for homing" enabled, then you cannot move beyond the endstop. This is the default in the Cura firmware, to protect your machine. This means that with the default Cura firmware, you cannot adjust the Z in the startcode if your bed is too low, only when it is too high.

Installing on the Mac is a bit... random. For some people the instructions work, other people have some issues that they can fix, and some people never get it to work. I spend an hour trying to get it to work on someones macbook 2 days ago, and I could not get it to work. But yes, you do need a terminal right now. The wish is for a normal .app install. But we are not there yet.

I think the tube is 80mm in length. So 4 feet should work.