Daid

The ':' bug is not in printrun, but in Marlin, which sees : as a newline for some reason. This should be fixed in newer Marlin versions.

There should be no extra scaling except for the scale factor you give in. 1 "unit" in the model should come out as 1 mm.

That would be a bit of a backward procedure. However, Skeinforge can do what you want, it can do it's first step "carve" and then export an SVG file containing all the layers. You can edit this file and feed it back into skeinforge to do the rest of the procedures.

I think milkshape 3D has a vertex welding tool that you can use. It also allows for pretty low level editing of faces and stuff, so you can check out what's really in the model. It's also free to use for 30 days, and pretty cheap after that if it serves your goal.

There is no model size measurement shown anywhere yet (bit silly, as I want it myself, and I already calculate it, just need to put it somewhere on the GUI) The fan is enable on the 2nd layer when using normal mode. Simple mode incorrectly enables it on the first layer. Tests have shown that the first layer sticks better, and warps less if you do not enable the fan while printing that layer. If you want to change this layer number, it's in the expert settings under cooling.

I'm using the "adjust the bed during the first layer" method, combined with a 0.3mm first layer and the fan off on the first layer.What I do is, I first level out the bed using one of the 6mm wooden spare parts. First you home Z, and then move the head up 6mm. Move to all corners and level those. Next, start a large print, slowly. During the printing of the first layer, see if it sticks, if it doesn't stick, quickly turn all 4 screws by half a turn, repeat until it sticks. If the first layer is too squashed, turn the screws the other way around. It requires some getting used to, but I've been using this method for a while now, and now I only need the "during print adjustment" after I moved my printer or removed the bed. I'm also using "gamma painters tape" which sticks properly to PLA, but doesn't stick very well to the bed. The default blue tape is better. I used to have a 0.1mm start layer, with a very level bed. But after replacing the tape so many times I switched to the 0.3mm start layer.

I'm not sure what archicad is doing. But I've checked out the model. I removed all houses except for 1, so I could take a better look at it, most houses seem to have the same errors. It seems that Archicad isn't very accurate in generating vertexes (3D points) as the corners don't all seem connected. Also there are also duplicate faces in each roof. If I use 3D studio max "vertex weld" feature on 0.1mm, then the model is fixed. This will merge all vertexes which are within 0.1mm of each other. After that I needed to remove the duplicate faces from the roof.

Have you tried Cura instead of RepG/Skeinforge? It should be less painless according to it's users.

I think Ian just pretty much proved that you can get the Ultimaker up and running on high quality pretty quick

I think my key words are "high frequency". The most common cause of Arduino hangs are caused by ESD glitches on the IO pins, the power of the Arduino has a pretty good regulator, and there are proper capacitors on the board to catch most problems on the power. Note that this is a difficult subject, and I only know a tiny bit about it. Without proper testing equipment it's almost impossible to say for sure how good your design is. At my work we recently had to replace 100 boards because of a clock line which could glitch a data line. This glitch happened only once every few hours, and was hard to trace. And this was after the boards where tested for EMF already.

You need to "union" the tail with the body. This will create 1 solid shape instead of 2. It's a pretty common problem, and the reason why this happens lays at the core of Skeinforge. Slic3r does this differently, but has other issues in some cases then.

Indeed, there is no problem in connecting 2 grounds. (except in advanced cases, but you don't have to worry about those) But as a general rule, don't try stuff you don't understand, unless you are willing to buy new things if it breaks.

The size of the final image also depends on which version of the Arduino stuff you used. And which compiler you used. The build-me-marlin is using Arduino 1.0 libraries, with a few adjustments. On a pretty recent GCC version.

Didn't try it yet. But I have a 405nm 500mW laser: http://www.o-like.com/index.php?main_pa ... hlius1r9l3 Which I want to stick on it just to test to see what's possible, however, I do not have a proper lens yet. This should do engraving, but of you want to cut anything else then paper you need a 20W gas laser, which is much more expensive and fragile.

Emailing me is the worst option (IMHO) unless you want to keep the files private. You can file issues on Github, which would be the best way to report bugs. However, if a model is printed hollow, you most likely have intersecting faces. I don't know if cloud.netfab can solve this. But it's often used to fix up broken models.

The print temperature setting? First tab on the right ;-)

Depending on where you live, you could see if you can arrange a group buy of the Ulticontroller to share shipping costs. As for my review. I got one of the late "prototype" controllers. Without a casing. At first I was like, yeah yeah, I'll test it. But printing from USB is much easier. This took about 2 days, then I disconnected my USB cable. Moved the printer to another room, and now I print with the controller all the time. I love the fact that it leaves my PC free to use. And that I do not have to worry about buffering problems. That I quickly can adjust the speed (the reaction time of the speed adjust on the UltiController is quicker then with USB). I loved it even without a case. And now I have the unoffical-offical casing, which makes it even better. I think it's good value, and I recommend that if you order a kit you also order an UltiController. If you already have a kit, then it becomes a bit more difficult, as shipping is not the cheapest.

steps like this are an electrical or a mechanical problem. As you are also having problems with the Z, it's most likely that the step motor drivers are tuned wrong. If that's not the case, then your belts are not tight enough. See: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers

First, Thanks for all the praises There is currently no z-check in the project planner. The idea to print up to 60mm of each part has been raised already, but it hasn't been implemented yet.

Maybe something is wrong with your computer then. Usually running the same program with the same input twice yields the same result. Which version of Python and wxPython is installed on both your Ubuntu machines?

I've had success with running Google sketch-up in Wine.

There are different possible causes for this. One could be a "extra" face inside the model which doesn't belong there. Use the X-Ray view to inspect the model (it's the 5th button above the preview) If anything shows up in red you might have an extra face or a hole in your model.

If you stop a print it still leaves on the heater, that's by design. You can set the temperature to zero then yourself. The temperature adjustment during printing should work, but I haven't done huge amount of testing with it. There is currently no speed adjustment in Cura. However, Cura still comes with "PrintRun" which has more advanced features like the speed adjustment.

If you disconnect the thermocouple board then any recent version of Marlin (installed by RepG34 or Cura) will shut off the heater instantly.If you disconnect the yellow/red wires from the thermocouple board, then it's a different story. Because then the thermocouple board returns the temperature of the thermocouple board, instead of the thermocouple. This is room temperature, which is a valid temperature. There have been some experiments with detecting if the heater really works. But there where false positives (and thus failed prints because of this feature), so it's not enabled. Cura has a first run wizard, which checks if your heater+temperature sensor function correctly. This is protection against improper assembly. The bowden tube connection in the printer head is IMHO, the worst part of the machine. I actually have 2 of the white clips on my machine to ensure it stays in place. If this tube moves, even a mm, then you will have problems. Usually it's plugging problems, and not overheating problems.

Most likely it's some high frequency EMF or ESD that is causing this. "normal" equipment is shielded against this, but I don't think the Ultimaker is tested for EMF/ESD. Which is quite difficult and requires expensive equipment. This is why your computer is inside a large metal box, and your laptop contains a lot of small metal bits and pieces to shield it. The high frequency EMF is most likely carried by the powerlines into the power supply of the Ultimaker and transferred there to the 19V line. From the 19V line it's only a small jump to any of the Arduino pins, which do not like this. If you have grounded wall plugs, then use those for the Ultimaker, this can help.