Daid

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23589 This is maybe the most difficult print I've designed and printed so far. It's a cat inspired moving key chain with planet gears. Basically, if you turn the big outside wheel, the inside cat face will rotate faster. It's fascinating to look at, and irresistible to play with (as Harma proved) As for difficult to print. There is no glue in there, no screws, it's all held together by plastic. The big wheel was printed first, then the 3 small gears that you cannot really see right now. Then the center gear with the cat face was printing, however, during this print you need to insert the big wheel, as it gets sealed between the gear and the face. Finally, the case is printed, which seals the catface with all the gears. And then you need to make sure the bridges are not sticking to the wheel, and that everything still moves. Took me a few tries to get everything right. But sealing gears in prints really works great.

I think the offical thermocouple of the Ultimaker is a custom part, so you cannot easy order a replacement without changing the heaterblock. But mr_seeker should be able to clarify that better. Good. We know the EBay machines come with cheaper motors and bad laser cutting, but I don't know if the EBay machines come with thermocouples or thermistors. But it could be thermistors to save money. But, that's not your problem Those voltage readings don't seem right. Could you check if the soldering on the thermocouple board are good? sometimes one of the pins on the IC is not properly soldered to the board.

Cura does some overextrusion because of corners and infill-perimeter overlap, that could explain the extra 30mm3

Don't worry, you're more likely to damage the stepper drivers instead of the motors themselfs. If you want a simple temperature check, put a PLA print on top of the extruder motor. If it doesn't get soft, then you don't have a problem. (One of my extruder motors is always on for some reason, and gets really hot, but it still doesn't make PLA stick to it)

The temperature sensor in the Ultimaker is not a thermistor but a thermocouple. The info you found it most likely old information during development. Quick question, just to help you better, did you buy your kit from https://shop.ultimaker.com/ or from EBay? Because EBay machines are low quality counterfeits. I'm just asking to help you better, not to punish you if you have an EBay kit.

If you are self employed a.k.a a freelancer, then yes, I think you should have a VAT code. In the Netherlands you get this when you register at the Chamber of commerce. (That's about as far as my information goes, as I'm not a freelancer)

Not sure how much 3mm you have, but if it's a lot then it might be interesting to find another solution. I know they had some bad filament at Protospace, and they needed a solution. So they used something called a "trekijzer" in dutch: http://www.dezilverwinkel.nl/trekijzer3 ... p-794.html Normal sold 3mm filament is actually around 2.9mm. However, some new sellers don't know this custom and thus make 3mm filament around 3.0mm

Looking good I am a bit surprised that you mounted it to the side like that. I usually stand next to my machine, and then the viewing angle of the normal UltiController is quite steep already (but Joris told me you could just put it on the table instead of hanging it on the machine, that changes the angle to standing viewing angle. The large knob is most likely an improvement over the normal ulticontroller knob. However, small warning, scrolling very fast in the SD card menu sometimes causes problems, not sure why.

I raised this question, and nobody seems to know for sure. However, I they gave me an early tube to compare to the new tube. I cannot see any difference.

one of the attendees, part of one of the groups I helped a lot (no, I did not plan that)Some more photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14412219@N ... 851645424/

The Cura RC2/3/4 firmware supports the UltiController out of the box. And I think the RepG34 firmware also does this.

What happens when you hit an endstop is that that movement is canceled. Not just the moment in the direction of the endstop, but the whole movement. Hitting an endstop is to protect your machine, but should never happen during normal printing. If you are printing very large objects where the head needs to touch the endstop, then you can use the "endstops only for homing" option in the firmware. But you'll need to build the firmware yourself then from: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/

How thick is your filament? And it is round or oval? The compression from the drive might make it even more oval which results in getting it stuck in the tube.

Found some: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36386430@N ... otostream/ Doesn't contain all photos, but this is an interesting one for example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36386430@N ... otostream/ It's trapeziums printed on top of fabric. This gives the rigid plastic, while having flexible parts in between. You can do origami this way.

If you are using Marlin with NetFabb, you need to edit the startcode to include an M84 E14. See: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=479

I haven't got photos yet, but there where photos made. It was not a real "ultimaker event", more an Ultimaker sponsored workshop. Where we looked into combining 3D printing with textiles. It was really interesting, because there where people with all kinds of backgrounds there (I was the only Engineer I think). And when you have artists, they really have a different view on the machine and it's possibilities. Which is great, and really inspiring. It was also great to see how fast people where learning to use the machine. It was a 1.5 day workshop, and that's really short. But quite a few people where using the Ultimaker without help already in that short time. Also, Joris is great is showing that you do not have to fear the machine, or have fear of breaking it.

While I haven't tried printing with RepG34/Slic3r. But Cura's defaults: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki are good for printing. If you have problems with those settings, then almost always the real problem is mechanical.

maybe the Z motor has too little power? or too much and thus the driver is overheating?

I've released Cura RC4. This is a bugfix and minor change release compared to RC3. https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki Changes are: [*:1oo9w0kb]Fixed a critical bug where slicing didn't work when people where using Cura for the first time. [*:1oo9w0kb]Added dwindle settings for people to experiment with. (In expert config) [*:1oo9w0kb]Added mirror/swap buttons to project planner [*:1oo9w0kb]Fixed issue where opening an explorer window on a filename with a space in it failed. (Windows only) [*:1oo9w0kb]Added better command line slice running support (slice file with different profile.ini) [*:1oo9w0kb]Added "show log" on project planner [*:1oo9w0kb]Added an extra perimeter when you are using the Joris setting, this makes the print watertight [*:1oo9w0kb]Fixed issue with GCode preview of Jorised GCode [*:1oo9w0kb]Fixed an 3D preview window issue with ATI cards, where the preview window refused to update (Affects both Windows and MacOS) [*:1oo9w0kb]Added slice date/time and basic settings to start of GCode. And made start/end code preserve lines that only had comments. [*:1oo9w0kb]Made the Cura printing interface release the step motors when you cancel a print.

Yes please, that would be awesome, I need some practice in 3d modelling/editing :-) Which units/buildings do you want?

Yes, you pay 19% VAT for a shipment in Europe. There is an EU law regulating that. If you are buying it as a company then you have a VAT code, and if you enter it the 19% will be removed.

I know that one! It's amazing. Printed at 50% scale, Cura RC3 defaults with 0.1mm layers: (it was my test print for the RC3 default settings, in combination with the project planner) Project 1: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120423 ... .small.jpg Project 2: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120424 ... .small.jpg Btw, if you want other Starcraft 2 models, I can manage to export them. (It will require post-processing before you can print it) I took a look at the battle cruiser model, but it didn't have a lot of details, the details of that model seem to be in the textures.

In the configuration wizard, what does it say in the box "This results in the following steps per E:"? If it says 0.0 then enter 865.888 in it and try the extrude again. Your movie clearly shows that the motor is powered but not stepping (it's powered twice because it gets reset when you press "extrude")

I was at the shop yesterday to get new tape (ran out of the blue stuff). And the home brand from the Gamma (dutch) seems to work very well. However, I also picked up a roll of Tesa flexible masking tape. This stuff has a lot of profile, and PLA sticks on it like crazy. A bit too crazy. However, it has a use, because it sticks to the object so much better then the bed, it will come off with your object. But the object will have stuck to the bed fine. Now you just need to get the tape from the object, which I did by throwing the object in water over night, after that I could scrape the tape right off the object. This tape might not be useful for every print, as it leaves a very rough finish at the bottom. But it can be useful to get the tricky prints to stick.

It is possible to do small thin legs, but this print took 4 tries. Printed at 200C. You need to get the speed settings just right. In case of Cura, it's tweaking the minimal layer time and the minimal feedrate (in expert settings) I used this fan shroud: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10501 Which doesn't provide a whole lot of airflow, but it does provide airflow just below the tip of the hotend, which works great for prints like you see above here.